Tips for weling 1/8" ss rods together?

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I just started welding (TIG) a few days ago and have been focusing on trying to build rolling ball sculptures (see link)http://www.rollingballsculpture.com/TableTop.htmlThey consist of small welds to hold curved pieces of 1/8" stainless rods together. Seeing as how I am new to welding, there is quite a learning curve. I am able to weld the pieces together but could use some tips to help reduce the amount of trial and error.My biggest problem is getting the pieces to fuse together without melting through or causing severe blackening (and the welds look fuzzy). I found last night that by increasing the amps I can reduce the discoloration by working quicker and keeping the heat localized - but I am not sure if this is the right answer. I am not using a filler, I found that I just ended up with a big glob when I tried.Here are some other things I've tried- gas flow between 8-20 cfh (did not see any difference in weld)- amps between 3-5 (on a scale of 10 - HF 130amp tig)- my welder runs the gas for about 5 seconds after the arc stops, I hold it right by the weld but it is still glowing after the gas turns offAny tips would be greatly appreciate, like I said I am completely new and trying to learn.I'll post some pictures later tonight to help clarify.Thanks!CharlieLast edited by Charlieaf92; 09-10-2008 at 10:18 AM.
Reply:couldn't help ya on welding, but it looka like a cool thing to make, and hard.  post pics when your done, good luck
Reply:i know this would probably make your gas consumption higher but a good tip is to set your machine's post-flow at 1 second for every 10 amps you're using.  (90 amps = 9 seconds).  The blackness you see is oxidation and keeping the gas on it until it cools will help prevent the oxidation. also....you can usually remove the oxidation with a wire brush. are you using 3/32" tungsten or 1/16th?""Real power is an arcair hand torch with a piece of 3/4 inch carbon and 1500 amps.  You feel like Zeus throwing a lightning bolt."
Reply:Originally Posted by Charlieaf92I found last night that by increasing the amps I can reduce the discoloration by working quicker and keeping the heat localized - but I am not sure if this is the right answer.
Reply:I've set my Syncrowave at 6 seconds post-flow. I don't have any tungsten discoloration with my 3/32" tungsten. I weld 3/16" mild steel and 3/16" alum with this post-flow. These are short welds, making brackets, widgets and gizmos. For the tiny stuff you're doing, I'd try 5 and 4 seconds. If your tungsten isn't discoloring (black/blue), you're fine.9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:What about silver solder or brasing?Maybe less mess.I really have to basis to even post a comment on this, but I guess If I was going to try that with TIG I would go to a 1/16 or even .040 electrode and try to mostly fusion weld it with a dab of .030 stainless mig wire if needed. Maybe make a notch in a small piece of refractory half the depth of the wire to help keep gas around the wire and prevent O2 slipping into the eddy on the back side.Lincoln PT185 TIGLincoln 175 MIGLincoln 240 amp AC StickLind Needle Arc plasma welderPlasma cutter, soon???
Reply:Thanks for the responses guys. I don't know what size tungsten I am using (it is what came with the HF Tig). Unfortunately there is no ability to adjust post flow on my cheap welder - but I did try cleaning the welds with a wire brush last night and that did the trick.I spent another 3 hours practicing last night and found that I could get a cleaner, less discolored weld by turning up the amps even more. It may just be a matter of practice but it still seems like I am trying to perform surgery with a chainsaw. The torch is shooting out a green flame that blasts through this rod like its butter.I have noticed that I have made a significant improvement with each night of practice (last night was night 3). I will post some pictures tonight.Thanks again for the advice, keep it coming pleaseCharlie
Reply:Green flame?  Sounds as though your tungsten is contaminated.  Is it ground to a fresh point?  On precision work, the second you touch out to the filler or the workpiece, stop and regrind.
Reply:If it was me, I would be using a Miller maxstar 150 with the pulse feature. The pulse is amazing for small, thin stuff. Of course, you already bought the Harbor Freight POS.Green flame usually means either wrong polarity- are you sure you have the torch and ground hooked up right?Or not enough shielding gas.Also, you need to sharpen them tungstens once in a while, you know...
Reply:Originally Posted by RiesIf it was me, I would be using a Miller maxstar 150 with the pulse feature. The pulse is amazing for small, thin stuff. Of course, you already bought the Harbor Freight POS.Green flame usually means either wrong polarity- are you sure you have the torch and ground hooked up right?Or not enough shielding gas.Also, you need to sharpen them tungstens once in a while, you know...
Reply:Not the polarity of the wall plug, but the polarity of the electrode and ground clamp.Pulsing atomatically turns the arc intensity up and down at a rate you can set, helps getting penetration without as much total heat. Same as can be done manually to an extent with a foot pedal. Also foot pedal alows retrigering timer for PF gas with a quick tap once you break the arc if you want a little extra post flow (at least that is how it works on more advanced machiens)Lincoln PT185 TIGLincoln 175 MIGLincoln 240 amp AC StickLind Needle Arc plasma welderPlasma cutter, soon???
Reply:Originally Posted by TimberwolfNot the polarity of the wall plug, but the polarity of the electrode and ground clamp.Pulsing atomatically turns the arc intensity up and down at a rate you can set, helps getting penetration without as much total heat. Same as can be done manually to an extent with a foot pedal. Also foot pedal alows retrigering timer for PF gas with a quick tap once you break the arc if you want a little extra post flow (at least that is how it works on more advanced machiens)
Reply:The pulse feature is electronic, built into the maxstar, and allows you to weld quite thin material easily- but it also costs. The Maxstar costs ten times what you paid- but its a high quality, industrial machine made in america.As for sharpening- especially with 1/8" stainless, you just cant have the tungsten too sharp. Sharp tungsten will allow for a much smaller, more focused arc.I use a disc/belt sander with a 50 grit alumina zirconia sandpaper, myself, and chuck the tungsten up in a cordless drill. I get a very sharp point that works very well. It helps, especially as a beginner, to have the grinding direction parallel to the point of the tungsten, it focuses the arc a bit more.
Reply:For that kind of small diameter 'wire' work, I too think that silver soldering or brazing would work very well. The lower temperature solders have good strength, a silver color to match the rod, and good wetting ability so would make a neat, clean joint; they can even be melted quickly with a good pencil-tip propane torch, perhaps using Mapp gas cylinders.The higher temperature brazing alloys, eg. the 45% cadmium-containing alloys, would probably require an oxy-acetylene (or oxy-propane) torch to keep the job quick and easy, but would also do a beautiful job.Since you already have the TIG unit, you might as well just keep practicing a while, seeing how much you can improve; once you realize what you need to be doing and develop the fine hand control, you might wonder why it seemed so hard at first. You might also try using some finer (1/16") filler wire or perhaps pound a piece of your rod flat on one end, (and then file or sand both surfaces to remove any impurities you pounded in, before using it), seeing if you can hold that in the joint and get it to melt first, bonding the other pieces together without overheating those other pieces.What kind of jig or holding fixtures do you have? Are you just holding the pieces in a vice or something similar? Is the setup rigid and are you in a comfortable position while you work? Are you always working on the outside, or do you sometimes have to reach inside to get to a joint?BTW, you can get free marbles, usually either clear or blue, from inside most used spray paint cans! Once a pack rat, always a ..........
Reply:Originally Posted by Charlieaf92 ... I found last night that by increasing the amps I can reduce the discoloration by working quicker and keeping the heat localized - but I am not sure if this is the right answer. I am not using a filler, I found that I just ended up with a big glob when I tried.
Reply:Originally Posted by hotrodderYep, more amps + less weld time is the way to go for this. Shouldn't be any need for filler with this but you could try laying the end of some filler ON the joint and arcing up directly on the intersection between all the pieces- with a short arc and a quick 'burst' of highish amps you can get a nice neat joint5 secs post flow should be enough for this work. From what you've said i think your arc length is too long and/or amperage is too low. I know this is a different type of work but it illustrates what i'm talking about...  http://weldingweb.com/showpost.php?p...0&postcount=11. Post flow was 4 secs, the 2nd pic showing the close ups of the tacks... the short arc tack was 'colour' free. Allowing a couple of secs more for the long arc 'tack' was enough for it get a 'straw' colour (amperage was the same). Brushing the weld while it's still hot will remove heat tint with virtually zero effort
Reply:Here are a few pictures. The first is a very crude rbs I made during my second night of practice. The second picture is of my next attempt that has taken night 3 and 4.The last 3 pictures are close ups of one of the better welds that I managed to do tonight. It hasn't been cleaned yet.I still have a long way to go, but it is very encouraging that I see significant improvement with each night of practice.Charlie Attached Images
Reply:Charlie:Well, you sure started at the high end of TIG finesse. Hotrodders link was a GREAT help to me earlier. I tried it in class and presto, easy tack welds. With your tiny cross pieces, there's no need for filler. Just a very short arc length and you'll have a weld. Heck, I couldn't even hold those little pieces together to weld 'em. 9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Originally Posted by Craig in DenverCharlie:Well, you sure started at the high end of TIG finesse. Hotrodders link was a GREAT help to me earlier. I tried it in class and presto, easy tack welds. With your tiny cross pieces, there's no need for filler. Just a very short arc length and you'll have a weld. Heck, I couldn't even hold those little pieces together to weld 'em.
Reply:Charlie:Thanks for the reply. It's how we all get better. 9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250