Having trouble seeing the weld seam

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As I am getting older (mid 50s now) I am having increasing trouble seeing the seam I am trying to MIG weld.I can see the weld puddle just fine - but my eyes are no longer sensitive enough to have the light from the welding arc illuminate the seam so I can see where I am welding.Does anyone have any suggestions?
Reply:Originally Posted by cgunder20As I am getting older (mid 50s now) I am having increasing trouble seeing the seam I am trying to MIG weld.I can see the weld puddle just fine - but my eyes are no longer sensitive enough to have the light from the welding arc illuminate the seam so I can see where I am welding.Does anyone have any suggestions?
Reply:I will tell you what may help- try a halogen light pointed right at the welding area. There will be much more ambient light, and you will be able to see the metal better. If you are already outside, in daylight, this won't help. But, even a well lit shop will need some extra light from time to time. Many welding caves are pretty dark from what I have worked around.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:cg,In addition to increasing the ambient light, you may try marking the seam with a soapstone.  It's worked at times for me.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:I originally set my shop up for wood working with plenty of overhead fluorescents. Makes it real easy for metal too except I often am in a position with a fluorescent shining right down into the back of the hood. Real killer, can't see anything. I have to move around and make sure there no is light fixture directly above my hood.
Reply:I have four tricks for you.Get a welding magnifying glass 1.75.Make sure you have sanded or ground the weld joint because the shinny weld joint really shows up.Take a welding chalk(soapstone) and draw a line next to the weld joint.Make sure you have the correct # of glass  in your helmet.AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:I have 12 fluorescent lights in my garage, some 8' some 4'. Can't have too much light. But before I installed each, I added a pull chain on/off switch. The newer T-8 units with 6500k bulbs kick butt.9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:I put a piece of scrap angle next to the joint.  It helps reflect the light, and it gives you something to gage the weld.Older, and wiser, my foot!!!  Just blinderLast edited by farmersamm; 09-14-2008 at 02:14 AM.Reason: wrong word"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:In view of your age (I'm only a couple of years behind, so don't feel I'm cheeky!) you may already have, or may need reading glasses. My optometrist told me to get a cheap pair at the equivalent of Walmart. Just over $10 and they make a real difference. If you've already got them, are you using them for welding? Without them, I have the same problems you have, with them I can see the joint again."One of the things we have to be thankful for is that we don't get as much government as we pay for." (Charles Kettering)Mitch 180 (NZ)Lincoln SAM-400-220 + ?-400 Fordson Major + 2 x Tractapac Humber 80 + Procut 40 PlasmaMiller Spectrum 375
Reply:been havin similar problem...css..  .see foto, this is where i tig..also got a pair of reading glass made with a 12 inch focal length(measured by eyedoctor ) normal reading glasses have a two foot focal leght..also got clean platesdand a gold #9.. Attached Images
Reply:You can also look into different lenses.  I use the gold lenses that are mirrored.  They reflect a lot of light back at your workpiece.  Also, they're available in different colors.  The old standard lenses are all green tint.  The gold ones are available in green, red, and blue seems to be very rare anymore.  I use the red tint.  It seems to make things a bit lighter and easier to see...and not green.
Reply:Thanks for all the helpful suggestions.  I should have added a bit more detail:I do wear glasses all the time - even while welding.  I am very near sighted and cannot see to read or work without them.I have a Miller Elite big windoe auto darkening helmet.  The outer window is about 4.5 x 5 inches - and is made of replaceable clear plastic.  I do keep this relatively clean and replace it when it gets pitted and scratched.  Right behind that outer clear protective lens is the auto darkening filter assembly.  It adds a greenish tint - and is adjustable.  I usually weld MIG (below 150 amps) with it set to shade 10.  Right on top of the auto darkening element is another clear plastic replaceable windoe - this is between my glasses and the auto darkening element.  I also clean that and replace it when it gets scratched.The only gold coated welding lenses I have been able to find are fixed shade - designed to be used in a fixed (non auto darkening) helmet.  I will contact Miller on Monday - does anyone know if the large outer plastic window is available with the gold coating?  I should also add that I have two other helmets - both fixed lens types.  These have shade 11 lenses in them.  I have the same problem with seeing the weld seam that I have with the Miller.I will try the halogen spot lamp - that is a good idea.
Reply:Originally Posted by cgunder20The only gold coated welding lenses I have been able to find are fixed shade - designed to be used in a fixed (non auto darkening) helmet.
Reply:you could also try using cheater lenses in your hood. Then lenses go behind the filter. I heard from people that use them that they really help