welding 1/4" to 1/2" mild steel

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building a "stair case" down the side of a small cliff, about 18'.thinking that 6"X6" heavy wall box will work.i am looking for suggestions on a machine that will give me plenty of penetration, on a budget.Stick or Wire feed plug in or gas powered.  would a Lincoln 225ac unit suffice, or would a dc unit be a better choice.Thank you for any help you can give me.Matthew
Reply:If you plan to build the stairs, then move them to where you want to finally install them, the 225ac would be fine.  It's reasonably priced, and will come in handy for years down the road.  Very good power for heavier metal.  Not exceptionally portable, and requires 50amp dedicated circuit to run it.If you have to build the stairs in place on the cliff, then you might consider a more portable type of welder.  Possibly a mid power (135amp+) wire welder that can be run on pretty long extension cords (12 or 10ga).  That's if you have power close enough to run maybe 100 of so feet of cord.  They can also be run on a generator which you might already own.  More joint prep, and possibly some built up welds, but doable.Engine driven welder is probably overkill.  Price wise, and justification wise, unless you plan to do a lot of portable welding."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:the stairs will be built on site. which is about 150 feet from the breaker boxes.a 135 wire feed will make enough heat for this thick of steel?i was thinking 180 or so, looking on craigs list and so on, lots of machines on there, i am just concerned about penetration.thanx for the responseMatthew
Reply:This is the time that you to your self "BIGGER IS BETTER" and you buy the 180. I don't see a 135A 110volt  wire feed doing 1/2" steel not with out preheat and a lot of prep work and then the duty cycle is so small. Even working in 1/4" steel it is pushing the limits of the machine  I would look into a used engine drive and sell it when finished. 150 feet is a long hike to rest a breaker or plug in a grinder.Last edited by Fat Bastard; 10-15-2008 at 12:45 PM.
Reply:I'd look into renting an engine drive for that matter.
Reply:Yep rent a stick and be done !!! weld it like you own it
Reply:A 135 amp mig will only put out about 100 amps Especially on a loooong cord.  Too small in my book.Can you get 220 there?I see Lincoln V250 or V275 on Ebone for about $600.00  I have a 250 and its a nice machine.  Plenty big (amps), and it will tig too!  Weighs less than 50 lbs.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:i agree, rent and be done with
Reply:220 is no problem just have to get it about 150' out..thats a lot of $$ in extension cord or leads..i am thinking gas powered may be the way to go..Matthew
Reply:My thoughts on the smaller machine were probably optomistic.  The other guys are right.Engine drive would be the way to go if you don't want to tie up money in drop cords.  I haven't bought 3 wire 6ga in a while so I'm not up on the current price.Price the cost of a 6ga. drop cord first, and add it to the cost of a 225ac unit.  I don't know where this will come out   You'd have the 225 and cord when you're done.  (I gotta thing about seein' rental money go out the door, and nothing there when it's gone)Last edited by farmersamm; 10-15-2008 at 06:42 PM."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Portable generator will power a 180 mig.   If you have one, then that might be cost effective for you. Also, used Miller 150 dc stick inverters are around $350.
Reply:1/4" to 1/2" steel is out of the range of a smaller mig welder. I would in fact be reluctant to go after 1/2" on a production style job with a 180A machine. I do some 1/2" steel with my Miller 175, and it really doesn't like it much. And that is not the project to be trying to get proper preheat into. A stick welder is the right tool for the job; no gas to worry about, just get the right filler rod, plug in, and start welding.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Even a 220 volt mig is likely have only a 10 foot gun. That'll be awckward as the dickens working on a hillside. I'd want something with some leads on it, something I could whip and jerk into a working position. That would be a stick machine with some leads whether gas or AC powered.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammMy thoughts on the smaller machine were probably optomistic.  The other guys are right.Engine drive would be the way to go if you don't want to tie up money in drop cords.  I haven't bought 3 wire 6ga in a while so I'm not up on the current price.Price the cost of a 6ga. drop cord first, and add it to the cost of a 225ac unit.  I don't know where this will come out   You'd have the 225 and cord when you're done.  (I gotta thing about seein' rental money go out the door, and nothing there when it's gone)
Reply:Do you know any contractors who have/use the long, heavy power lines at their construction sites? I have a couple, both 4-wire w/ twistloc connectors for 110v/220v 50amp. I think one is 3 #4, 1 #6 (ground) and the other is 4-#6 , I think each is 100 feet long; maybe the second (smaller wire) is only 50'.  Don't use them too often.My point is that if you could borrow such leads a while, you could buy a good stick welder and save the cost of rentals for generators or ?? Make a deal to help your friend with some welding or?? in return for the use of his leads.PS  In any case, be sure to secure all the gear so nothing walks away, even during lunch. Lots of creeps out there! They even try to steal energized Power Company lines sometimes.
Reply:i really appreciate all the info you guys are providing me.at this point i think i need to check out the local welding supply/rental place to see what the rates are for a unit that will do the job.  then way that against buying a used one out right.so far sounds like stick would be the all around best choice, unless i went with a BIG wire machine.Thanx againMatthew
Reply:Good luck.  Just curious why the selection of tubing for the steps.  You could probably save money by channel.
Reply:the tubing is for the support structure it will be wood for the rest..it will be a switch back staircase, the uprights will be the 6x6.Matthew
Reply:Where are you located?Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Why the 1/4" & 1/2" Just a general question thrown out to the engineers-Stairs require this type of "beef"??Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:The material(s) used and the design used depend greatly on the specifics of a project and the constraints and limits and trade-offs involved.In other words, it all depends.  Maybe the stairs being pondered need to support some 'freight' traffic and not just a single person going up or down the stairs.Maybe the stairs are going to be cantilever mounted off the cliffside.Maybe the stairs are really wide and the view is so spectacular that three people will be standing on each step and every step will have three people on it to watch the sunset/fireworks/boat-race/topless-beach/whatever.It depends.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammMy thoughts on the smaller machine were probably optomistic.  The other guys are right.Engine drive would be the way to go if you don't want to tie up money in drop cords.  I haven't bought 3 wire 6ga in a while so I'm not up on the current price.Price the cost of a 6ga. drop cord first, and add it to the cost of a 225ac unit.  I don't know where this will come out   You'd have the 225 and cord when you're done.  (I gotta thing about seein' rental money go out the door, and nothing there when it's gone)