Lincoln 225/125 AC/DC Lifespan Inquiry

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Hi...  I was wondering if anyone has managed to burn-out one of these machines (Lincoln 225/125 AC/DC).  I bought one about a year ago, and it comes with a 3 year warranty; plus I bought an additional 4 year warranty from Home Depot.  I was curious as to whether or not my machine would last longer if I only used low current settings for small rods like 1/16" burning at 40 AMP versus 1/8" rods burning over 90 AMPS.  It just seems to me that the machine wouldn't be stressed as much.   I'm just a curious and learning hobbyist; so I don't use it all that much in the first place; but only for lack of time.  Basically... what is the longest-lived, and hardest worked Lincoln 225/125 out in "This World" ?  Thanks !  Ed VA  "The job is only as hard as you make it seem."P.S.  I've already learned a lot of stuff from just the few questions I've presented; and hope to continue this experience.  Thanks !Ed VA
Reply:Killed this one about 3-4yrs. ago.  It was probably over 40yrs. old by the time I waxed it.  I wasn't too good about adhering to duty cycles.I don't expect to have that problem with my new crackerbox.  The DC end is thermally protected, so they tell me.  And I now pay closer attention to how long I run the AC side without cooldown.  I think I probably fried it when I was building 2 16' box beams.  I didn't stop until the breaker kicked.  Then just reset it, and kept pluggin'.These guys are indestructable, but they ain't Farmer proof  I could ruin a sunny day if I really put my mind to it. Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Hi FarmerSamm...  "Nice Rack" you have there; and I mean the rack for your welder.  He-he    I thought about building one; but then figured out that it would be too easy for the local thieves to walk away with it.  It's been getting bad out here lately.  The Lincoln website can tell you how old your machine is based on the S/N plate if you're interested.  Incidentally, your picture looks almost like my backyard !  I wanted to ask you something about what, or how you would weld some 1.0" steel plate together.  Could you do it using 3/64" 6011 electrodes with a 40 AMP DC- setting ANY FASTER than you could do it using a 1/8" 6011 electrode with an above 90 AMP DC- setting ?  What would be the advantages to using the 1/8" rods ???  Speed in finishing the job ?    I'm thinking of making a larger work table out of railroad baseplates by welding several of them together.  I don't want to stress my welder; so I'm thinking of using 3/64" electrodes and just making as many passes as I have to.  I don't really want them welded all the way around... more like tack welded here and there so I can break the table down if another more interesting project ever comes up where I need baseplates if I can't find anymore.  I seem to be able to run a really nice, long, good looking bead while using those little 3/32" rods at 40 AMPS; but when I use the 1/8" electrodes, I have all kinds of crappy looking bubbles and stuff alongside, and on top of the bead.    I'm thinking that junk on the weld bead is just flux and splatter that I haven't cleaned off because the welds hold up well enough.  I can't send you a photo because my grandkids got ahold of my camera.  What do you think ?  Thanks as Always !  Ed VA  "The job is only as hard as you belive it to be."
Reply:1/8 will fill the joint faster with less passes.  90 amps DC will be near the top end of the machine's capability, and duty cycle will be shorter.  90-120 amps AC will do just as good of a job, and you're actually only midway as far as the machines capability.  The duty cycle will be longer ie. the machine won't heat up as fast.Amps are tricky.  Starting high, then turning it down, is generally better I think.  If the root pass blows through, turn it down.  You'll probably wind up around 90 or 105 if your machine is the same as mine.  I'd bet on 105 or 120.  The way you weld, especially travel speed, will wind up determining a lot.  A "high" bead might mean you're too cold.  Excessive spatter might mean you're too hot.  Travel speed adds another variableWeld equally on both sides of the plate.  One bead on one side, followed by an identical bead on the other.  This keeps the plate straight without warping.  Clean the slag off before each successive pass.The bullnose on the bevel should be about 1/8".  It doesn't need to be needle sharp.  Too little metal will blow through with 6011.If you find that you're uncomfortable with the 6011, try 6013 at 135 amps.  Although I think it's better to learn on 6011.You may require less passes than the diagram, but 1" is pretty thick, and the bevel will be pretty wide.  I never get the grind angle right on, and I'm usually closer to 45 degrees  Small focused beads are better than larger beads.  Always angle the stick into the root of each successive pass (where the adjoining beads meet).  It's hard to explain in words.I hope the picture helps. Attached ImagesLast edited by farmersamm; 11-14-2008 at 10:28 AM."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Those boxes are nearly indestructable, often will see them for sale, still work and 50 years old!Miller 140 w A/SHF Flux Core WelderDewalt Chop SawSmith O/A TorchHarley Electra Glide Classic
Reply:In true WW tradition, at risk of personal injury, and sparing no expense,  I did some sample welds for you to check outPic 1... Scrap used, and no I didn't prep itPic 2... 6011 at 90 amps.  Too cold.  Had to keep weld very narrow with short arc to keep it sort of okPic 3...  Heat footprint on backside of 6011 at 90 ampsPic4...  6011 at 105 amps.  Much betterPic5...  Heat footprint at 105 amps.  Poor fitup allowed some penetration, so not really a good indicator, but......More to follow Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:And here's the rest of the highly scientific testPic 1... 6011 at 120 ampsPic 2... Heat footprint at 120 ampsPic 3...  6013 at 135 ampsPic 4...  Heat footprint at 135 ampsAs you can see, there is a difference.  Familiarity with the rod, and adjusting travel etc. as you're welding can make up for some of the differences.  It narrows the possibility of a REALLY bad weld.The heat footprint really tells it all.  You'll notice as the amps increase, the discoloration band becomes wider.  It fills in from the top of the weld to the root.  A better weld.Also notice the divet that the 6011 digs(near where weld stops).  If you want/need that much penetration it's a good thing.  If not, it's a bad thing.I prefer 6013 because it looks nicer, and if you're careful, I feel it makes as good a weld as any in this class of rods.Identical machine to yours.  3/16 scrap flat, and some cutoffs from some channel.  And I did try to clean the crud off prior to posting Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:And don't confuse the tack weld with where the 6011 120 amps endsMy welds look crappy enough as it is"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Probably the most indestructable machine ever made.  AC only version, anyway, but I doubt the AC/DC is any different.  Customer and I were doing a bunch of hardfacing, big rods, big heat (for that machine), ignoring duty cycle.  After a couple hours, quit.  Opened it up, the copper contacts were burned.   No problem, unbolted the wires from the contacts and bolted them together direct, left the cover off, placed a big fan next to it, kept going.  Still going today (with the contacts fixed, of course).  Simple 15 minute job, parts cost was probably under $20.Last edited by mark8310; 11-14-2008 at 01:57 PM.
Reply:Thanks for everyone's comments and input.  I just didn't want to hurt my Lincoln, even though I bought the additional 4 year warranty on top of the Lincoln 3 year warranty.  In that case, I might have another good 6 years left on her if no one steals her.   FarmerSamm...  THANKS for all you've done My Friend !  Per your diagram, all I can say is "Gee... that looks like a lot of welding !!!".    I'm just going to weld Railroad Baseplates together just enough so that I can cut them apart later if needed.  I don't believe I have to do as good a job, (even if I could), as you did.  Thanks just the same.  You're one of the "Good Guys" !  Ed VA  "The job is only as hard as you make it."
Reply:Thanks.  Complements are hard come by.  Just farm stuff, not like the big guys do."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by edv7028Hi FarmerSamm...  "Nice Rack" you have there; and I mean the rack for your welder.  He-he    I thought about building one; but then figured out that it would be too easy for the local thieves to walk away with it.  It's been getting bad out here lately.  The Lincoln website can tell you how old your machine is based on the S/N plate if you're interested.  Incidentally, your picture looks almost like my backyard !  I wanted to ask you something about what, or how you would weld some 1.0" steel plate together.  Could you do it using 3/64" 6011 electrodes with a 40 AMP DC- setting ANY FASTER than you could do it using a 1/8" 6011 electrode with an above 90 AMP DC- setting ?  What would be the advantages to using the 1/8" rods ???  Speed in finishing the job ?    I'm thinking of making a larger work table out of railroad baseplates by welding several of them together.  I don't want to stress my welder; so I'm thinking of using 3/64" electrodes and just making as many passes as I have to.  I don't really want them welded all the way around... more like tack welded here and there so I can break the table down if another more interesting project ever comes up where I need baseplates if I can't find anymore.  I seem to be able to run a really nice, long, good looking bead while using those little 3/32" rods at 40 AMPS; but when I use the 1/8" electrodes, I have all kinds of crappy looking bubbles and stuff alongside, and on top of the bead.    I'm thinking that junk on the weld bead is just flux and splatter that I haven't cleaned off because the welds hold up well enough.  I can't send you a photo because my grandkids got ahold of my camera.  What do you think ?  Thanks as Always !  Ed VA  "The job is only as hard as you belive it to be."
Reply:I suppose your limited by skill, and materials on hand.Don't see anything but 6011 in most barns at the estate sale.  Maybe some old 7018."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Hi Roy Hodges & Thanks for your input !    I agree with your saying about "Starting crappy... ending crappy"; But...  as FarmerSamm knows, I don't have; nor can I find 6010 around here unless I buy enough to last me 5 years, and I may not even live that long.  He-he  I'm using what I can find here, what little knowledge I have between my ears, and what you fellas have been kind enough to tell me.  All in all, I'm just trying to "Temporarily Hold Together", some railroad baseplates which I'm guessing are around 1.0" thick.  I don't want to put a "Professional Type" weld on them because I'm pretty sure I'll need those plates for something else later; so a "Tack Weld" is more like what I'm after at this time.    I know these baseplates might need a sturdier weld to hold them together under much abuse like hammering, etc; but I'd like to experiment with some tack welds, and the type of weld FarmerSamm showed me with the pix he was kind enough to go through all that hassle to make.    I want to see what my Railroad Baseplate Weld Bench will look like "Functionally" with some added size on her.  I don't want to lose the use of the 22 drilled & tapped holes on her; nor the clamping ability.  I Doggone sure don't want to be drilling and tapping more holes either.  (Cramps my hands up, don't ya' know !)  What I have on hand now, are some 3/64" 6011 & 6013 & 7014; then some 1/8" 6011, 6013, 7018.  This is another reason I posted that question about Brazing with an Arc Welder.  If I can get that sample of Aerisweld I'm after, and some Carbon Electrodes, maybe that'll work.  All in all, I'm just a hobbyist with time on my hands when the weather cooperates, and my stomach lets me "off the pot".  Lots of ideas, and few resources.  Thanks Again to ALL !  Ed VA  "Life is Good.  It's just some of the people you meet along the way, that can make the difference either way."
Reply:It PAINS me to hear that some places you can  not buy a pound of rod (electrode) at a time . Around here (Napa,Califonia ,)  the welding supplies- REAL welding supplies-that sell NOTHING else ; they always have open 50 pound cans , that they are glad to sell even a pound at a time , then if you're afraid of moisture , just reheat it in your wifes oven and it works great . The welding supplies are always cheaper for electrode than the mickey mouse "BOX" STORES.......... In my town , we have 3 welding supplys , so one will almost always beat the other 2  stores , in price .[SIZE="5"Yardbird"
Reply:Also, when i had a small welding business, i sometimes traded some electrode with another welding shop for a different electrode i wanted . Sometimes you CAN get what you need (want) through bartering .[SIZE="5"Yardbird"
Reply:I'm using what I can find here, what little knowledge I have between my ears, and what you fellas have been kind enough to tell me. All in all, I'm just trying to "Temporarily Hold Together", some railroad baseplates which I'm guessing are around 1.0" thick. I don't want to put a "Professional Type" weld on them because I'm pretty sure I'll need those plates for something else later; so a "Tack Weld" is more like what I'm after at this time.
Reply:Sandy caused me to think a little . I'd PREHEAT & POST HEAT  NO matter what rod I used . That stuff you got is SO hard , it wants to crack, after welding .[SIZE="5"Yardbird"
Reply:Thanks Roy Hodges (Yardbird ?), and Sandy for your input.  Sandy... I have 6011, 6013, 7014, and 7018 onhand.  Are these what you consider Fast Freeze Rods ?  Yardbird... I've managed to weld some rebar to one Railroad Baseplate without doing anything special... no cleaning, preheat... anything; and the weld will support multiple impacts with a small sledge.  I use a small attached piece of rebar welded to the plate to "Burn Off" exposed rod when, after sticking, the flux breaks off.  As soon as the weather, (and my stomach), clear up, I'll try tacking 2 baseplates together.  They really do make Great Weld Tables because of their pricing... FREE; and they can be drilled & tapped where needed.  Their hardness makes them sturdy enough for use as anvils with little or no deforming; and they're so easy to replace... again at no cost.  Personally, when I'm not BBQ;ing, cutting grass, or working on my "Honey-Do" list, I'm always at my little welding table doing one thing or another.  Even my wife is jealous !Ed VA "Try it... You'll Like It !"
Reply:Sandy... I have 6011, 6013, 7014, and 7018 onhand. Are these what you consider Fast Freeze Rods ?