opinions please.

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Anybody have or used one of northerns 110v cable hoist 1 -ton cap.I,m thinking of buying one was wondering if anyone has one or is this a POS.   ITEM#142262
Reply:No help. or did i piss someone off here?
Reply:Sorry dude, I've never used one
Reply:Never have used an electric hoist.I have bought from Northern, and have been pleased with their stuff."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I used a 440 pound model for years to remove the hardtop from my Jeep Wrangler.  Worked well, but was _abrupt_ starting and stopping.Chris
Reply:I bought one about 4 yrs. ago. It was the 1500# model. After buying it I have never seen the 1500# model again. It's been great, no problems at all. It does move a little too fast for my tastes though. I dont know what I'd do with out it now.
Reply:Thanks guys.
Reply:Just ordered it i,ll keep ya,s posted when i get it up and running.
Reply:Here are the pics of the jib crane rebuild in my shop.The first pics of the base,next a couple of the top hinge point and then the boom arm itself with the cable hoist on the bench in the rear.And last the spot in the shop by the door where it is mounted to the floor.Any questions? Attached Images
Reply:I'm a wuss when it comes to hinges like on the boom.  I don't trust my welding enough not to do a built up reinforced weld.(It's a confidence thing)Only thing that worries me is not tying the angle brace on the boom to the shoulders of the square tubing.  Maybe a piece of plate extending the full width of the tubing would help distribute to load to the outside shoulders.  Or maybe better yet, do some gussets that tie the outside shoulders together without the piece of flat that's there now.  I may be really wrong, but I think putting the load on the middle of the tubing like it is, could cause it to buckle across the flat area between the shoulders."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:What do you have for hinge pins?City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:admswelding,Done a few jobs similar to yours but in no way am I an expert. The stuff I welded up was done using engineered prints, so dummies like me could make it.Looks like nice simple construction. I like the web stiffeners in the vertical column at hinge points. Also like the miter joint on the Boom Arm assy. Most would have had a 90 deg. joint there. I only question two areas of your design that could be a problem even if you are only going to lift 2000 lbs max. One is the vertical column doesn’t appear to be fixed/bolted to the wall. If it is free standing the mounting plate, bolts and weld are under quite a bit of strain. Two, do you plan to use any thrust bearing or bushings for pivot load points?Nice compact out of the way design for the floor space and room you have.
Reply:One is the vertical column doesn’t appear to be fixed/bolted to the wall
Reply:Answers,the hinge pins will be Gr.8 3/4" bolts.The tube is 1/2" wall thickness i don,t think it needs any reinforcing if i was lifting 3 or 4 thousand lbs maybe.The anchors in the floor are 3/4"x6" long the base is 3/4"thick.There are also 2x2 angle iron tiebacks down to the floor in 2 othere spots one directly behind the beam one to the right about 6' out you can see them in the last pic i believe they also are 3/4"anchored.Good questions any other input is welcome i did think of the boom span flexing but if you picked up a pc of 6"x4"hss w/1/2"wall you,d say no way also at 2000lbs trust me its heavy its only 6'-6" long not lifting 10' or 12' away.
Reply:Before someone ask i,m finishing welding the hinges inside today with 7018 could,nt get the mig gun in there so that is not overlooked either just have not got to it yet thanks for the feedback guys.My old boom was a joke compared to this and it lifted some stuff it should,nt have trust me. Attached Images
Reply:I like it.  Overbuilt!3/4 X 6" are what I use to anchor my CAR lift to the floor.  You got it.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:it occurs to me  my garage probably has a 4" thick floor, maybe with some wire mesh in it... if i wanted to put a boom in i'd have to start with enough  hole for a couple yards of concrete to anchor the boom  to... nice work..
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbeadit occurs to me  my garage probably has a 4" thick floor, maybe with some wire mesh in it... if i wanted to put a boom in i'd have to start with enough  hole for a couple yards of concrete to anchor the boom  to... nice work..
Reply:Hi, I have used these davit type cranes for many years , But the top of the upright member was always tied into the building or steel framing for strength,There is far too much strain to rely on just a small base plate. these cranes are even more useful when you have a gypsy chain operated travelling monkey to hang the hoist from. Regards  Gordon.
Reply:There is far too much strain to rely on just a small base plate
Reply:If you are not sure, you could always extend the plate out and add a gusset at least on 2 sides to improve the stability of the whole thing.For example go all to the wall behind the unit with the base plate and anchor it again.David Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by mrmikeyThat was my concern. Not so much that the baseplate won't support it because I think it will, it's the other assorted unknowns, anchors possably working loose after a bit, actual cement strength, shock load, so on and so on.I realize you did comment favorably on the cement, but without actually planning on a crane from the onset there could be voids, thinner areas, a missing piece of rebar......who knows. If I remember right, a crane such as yours has a dedicated base, isolated from the main slab .If you're like me when you first install something like that, "I'm never gonna lift over XXX lbs", which you usually don't......for the first while.Then, the first time you've gotta lift or manhandle a heavy load it'll be "I'll just do it this once".Well,  you get the idea.Not trying to be "Mr. negative" , just trying to bring out a few 'what ifs' so don't take it personal, we're just trying to look after your butt, (ahhh.....now that I think of it, that's probably not a good term, you get the drift :-) )....Mike
Reply:Here is a pic of it up.I picked up my TB/300D engine drive weighing 720lbs what i am seeing,is what i think they call torsional twisting of the i beam.I think i need to box it from the top down, say 3 feet meaning connect the outer web edges with a 3/8"thk. cap plate vertically.A little  guys what do ya,s think? Attached Images
Reply:Why not extend the vertical column up as high as you can and from that point run a cable to the outer end of the horizontal tube. Use a turnbuckle for adjustment and a pivot bearing of some sort for the top of the vertical column. keeping in mind the pivot will have to be in alignment with each otherYa gotta think, the outer 5' of the beam is unsupported and it's a point load on the diagonal brace underneath.....Mikeo**EDIT** reread your post, I assumed it was the horizontal beam, not the vertical, I'll shut up now :-)
Reply:Originally Posted by mrmikeyWhy not extend the vertical column up as high as you can and from that point run a cable to the outer end of the horizontal tube. Use a turnbuckle for adjustment and a pivot bearing of some sort for the top of the vertical column. keeping in mind the pivot will have to be in alignment with each otherYa gotta think, the outer 5' of the beam is unsupported and it's a point load on the diagonal brace underneath.....Mikeo**EDIT** reread your post, I assumed it was the horizontal beam, not the vertical, I'll shut up now :-)Perhaps a "Mast Stay" on the back and left side.David Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:I can see how you'd get a twist, the strain other than when the jib is straight out, is on one side of the beam.From an amateurs point of view, I don't think boxing the beam in would help as the distance from the web to the edge of the flange is relatively short.What are others thoughts on two braces, one on each edge of the flange that the lugs are welded to of the vertical beam running top to bottom. Similar to what you'd see on the top of a jib, making a truss in other words, only vertical.......Mike
Reply:Originally Posted by David RPerhaps a "Mast Stay" on the back and left side.David
Reply:I'm talking about the same thing as mrmikey./-\ Like the crude and rude drawing above going the length of the pole with something thin like 1/4 X 2 flat stock.Only on the 2 sides of the upright pole that won't be in the way, this is where the stress is.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by David RI'm talking about the same thing as mrmikey./- Like the crude and rude drawing above going the length of the pole with something thin like 1/4 X 2 flat stock.Only on the 2 sides of the upright pole that won't be in the way, this is where the stress is.David
Reply:What I meant and I think the same that David meant was two trusses, one each welded to the edge of the same flange that the pivot lugs are welded to. One edge that faces the door and the other edge faces the inside of the shop....Mike
Reply:Originally Posted by mrmikeyWhat I meant and I think the same that David meant was two trusses, one each welded to the edge of the same flange that the pivot lugs are welded to. One edge that faces the door and the other edge faces the inside of the shop....Mike
Reply:Originally Posted by David RYes, we both mean the same thing.  You could even use a cable.  Its only tension you need to keep the beam from bending.David
Reply:Looks strong as hell now!David Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by David RLooks strong as hell now!David
Reply:Excellent work! Looks great.........Boxing that I beam will certainly stop twisting. But I'd box it all the way down. And on both sides. It would have been easier to simply start with a square tube.I'd still be extremely concerned about the concrete it is bolted to. It looks like you have a piece of electrical conduit or some type of pipe in the slab directly behind the floor plate. This will weaken the slab even more. And you are "pulling" on the slab in a corner. This is usually a weak point in any slab.You did such a great job, and with the proper winch and that beam boxed on both sides, you could lift a few tons with that bad boy, if you were certain about the anchor.If it was me, I'd cut the slab out in the corner and pour a block of high compression concrete, well reinforced, and about 3' square. (An engineer could answer this dimension better) But that's just me, because I know in no time I'd be lifting 3 ton diesel engines......Roy BDartmouth, Mahttp://www.rvbprecision.comMM 185 MIGDiversion 165Purox W200 O/AGrizzly 9957 MillGrizzly 4030 Metal Band SawGrizzly 1050 Knife Belt SanderJet 1236 Metal LatheCM 14" Metal Band SawTP Blast Cabinet
Reply:The winch will only lift 1 ton anything heavier i have a gantry and 2 ton chainfall.The i beam i used was what i had and got 2 of them for free 2 yrs ago.You saw the pics of my old boom?If i didn,t break that slab floor with that this is not going anywhere.And i don,t own this building so cutting the floor is out of the question.