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Hello to all expert and novice. I am a professional woodworker interested in welding. I am new to welding but have a long history of creative woodworking, about 35 years of it. I realized that metal working and welding is not really much different, if at all, from what I have done all my life. Just different materials and bonding methods. Here is where I am at now, I have been working in recent years as a film Gaffer and Grip and have become interested in making a lot of the products I work with, Aluminum camera cranes, dollys, tracks etc. I realized the working with aluminum for me should be easy because it is really no different from hardwood but,,, And, that is a big But. The bonding is something new to me and my first step is to make sure I buy a welder that will be enough, but not to much and wasteful for my needs. I will be working with Aluminum almost exclusively, no big production, but limited custom work. I have some 6061 tubing .25 some .125 , and some .25 & .5 plate. Most of my bonding work will be with the .25 so I want to make sure I do not buy a putter when I need a driver and vice versa. I would appreciate any expert help I can get. also understanding why I need a certain welder when welding .125 or even .5 would help me understand welding a little better as well. Thanks Guys, and Gals, I view your field of expertise as I do my own with great respect.. many thanks.... David (www.davidmeeks.com)
Reply:Sounds like you need a minimum 200 amp tig machine with a water cooled torch.
Reply:twice you say that metal is really no different than wood. shouldnt be much trouble than.. good luck.
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbeadtwice you say that metal is really no different than wood. shouldnt be much trouble than.. good luck.
Reply:I've worked with steel mostly but I do know that if you're planning on doing aluminum there is little use for the putter. If you're going to do .25" you're going to need the driver. If you're going to do .5 " you're going to need a DRIVER.. Aluminum will suck up heat like a sponge sucks up water. Get a handle on steel first. While some of the skills over lap working with wood and metal is as different as night and day. I don't want to scare you off as I think you'll be able to handle it but the learning curve will be longer than you might think.Last edited by tresi; 01-04-2009 at 09:36 PM.Tough as nails and damn near as smart
Reply:I appreciate the responses so far and do not want anyone to get the wrong idea when I say working aluminum is as easy as hardwood, I speak of truth when I say that. I do have the tools to work aluminum as if it were hardwood. I can make a cabinet door out of aluminum or anything else. BUT I know nothing of welding, I was just asking of the bonding and appreciate the honest answers. With this in mind I am not asking for smart answers because I do know how to work the material just honestly asking for any help with understanding welding and buying one. Thanks again. David
Reply:I appreciate the responses so far and do not want anyone to get the wrong idea when I say working aluminum is as easy as hardwood, I speak of truth when I say that. I do have the tools to work aluminum as if it were hardwood. I can make a cabinet door out of aluminum or anything else. BUT I know nothing of welding, I was just asking of the bonding and appreciate the honest answers. With this in mind I am not asking for smart answers because I do know how to work the material just honestly asking for any help with understanding welders and buying one. PS: If you tried working hardwood you would see there is little difference in Aluminum. Thanks again. David
Reply:David, I understand you points about wood working similarly to aluminum. Like the guys stated, aluminum is funny the way it sucks up heat; when I weld the thicker stuff-3/8" and 1/2" , I am using preheat and the pedal is never off the floor. If you are talking about say a 6"x10" plate that is 1/2" and you have to weld onto it?? You'll need to preheat it for several minutes until your base heat is 200+ degrees. Now, if you are doing small parts with 1/2", like a tab, or a piece of round rod, like a shackle ring? Then you would not have to preheat with oxy/ acet. you can just use the tig torch to preheat the area. I'd have to say the guys are pretty dead on, the minimum machine I would want to use would be a 200 amp rig. The water cooled torch is optional, but once you start welding a bunch, or you are running wide open on the pedal for more than a few minutes, you will want a water pumper. If you see a need to weld a lot of I beam, girder material that is 1/2" then look right up to a 300 amp machine. You will need it. Good luck, and remember...never be the first one to climb on your own creation!!!!And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Not trying to be patronizing or flaming or anything but I do feel the need to point out the fundamental difference between welding and bonding.In wood working, no matter what type of glue you use or how strong the joint is, the two (or more) pieces of wood are only bonded together, not welded. They are still two separate pieces of wood with a layer of glue, all the way down toe the cellular and molecular level.Metals and metal alloys (alloys are mixes of two or more metals) like aluminum are totaly different. If you get any metal hot enough it will melt, let it cool again and it will go right back to being the same metal. Wood, being organic cannot melt, if you get it hot enough the rather large molecules (cellulose, hydrocarbons, etc.) will break down into smaller molecules and constituent elements (coke, charcoal, wood gas, etc.). However, unlike metals, one you remove the heat from wood it does not go back to being wood.It is this fundamental difference that allows metals, and not wood, to be welded. When you weld metals (technically, fusion weld) you use an intense heat source, such as an electric arc, to melt a little bit of each of the two (or more) metal pieces you wish to join and allow the melted sections to flow/coalesce together (adding some filler metal if necessary). When the heat source is removed and the molten sections solidify and where you used to have multiple pieces of metal, you now have only one. All the way down to the atomic level it is no longer two pieces of metal, but one.But enough general theory, on to the practical stuff:I agree with the others that the best process for you is GTAW (Gas Tungsten Arc Welding) also known as TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) welding.I have to, respectfully, disagree with tresi. If you know that you are going to be welding aluminum almost exclusively, I see no reason to waste time learning steel first. Just make sure you have plenty of scrap aluminum to practice on. Furthermore, it will be much easier to adapt the tooling/equipment you have to work with aluminum than to buy a whole bunch of new tools just to work steel.My number one choice for a machine is the Miller Dynasty 200DX. It is the machine I have at home and I love doing aluminum with it. We have a big Miller Syncrowave at work and I really dread using it on aluminum, in my opinion the Dynasty is much better. The Dynasty maxes out at 200 Amps but I have still welded on 1" aluminum castings with no preheat and an air-cooled torch, primarily because the Dynasty has both balance and frequency adjustments (not to be confused with pulse frequency adjustment).However, since the Dynasty is rather expensive, here's what I suggest you look for in a machine:Absolute necessities:1) AC output (some machines only output DC, avoid these at all costs)2) remote foot amperage control pedal (finger amptrol are useful at times, but IMHO foot is better to learn on)3) minimum 200 Amp outputHighly recommended: 1) Balance control (ability to adjust the time spent DCEN/DCEP)2) an inverter type machine (transformer type machines are OK, but in my opinion, inverters are superior)Would be really great:1) Frequency adjustment 2) wide range of input voltages (sooner or later you will need to go weld something away from your shop)Feel free to keep asking questions, us folks on the internet love opportunities to voice our opinions on things!Visit Tensaiteki.com
Reply:Originally Posted by TensaitekiI have to, respectfully, disagree with tresi. If you know that you are going to be welding aluminum almost exclusively, I see no reason to waste time learning steel first. Just make sure you have plenty of scrap aluminum to practice on. Furthermore, it will be much easier to adapt the tooling/equipment you have to work with aluminum than to buy a whole bunch of new tools just to work steel.
Reply:I really appreciate your responses and recommendations. I will use all this information to find a welder hopefully a good used one and start learning. I found a website that offers an online free course that should help. I have learned a lot from your guys and will put it to work. I will be back as soon as I encounter any problems and questions.. If you need any answers on woodworking or finishing,, Just ask. Thanks, David
Reply:Originally Posted by CinegripI will be back as soon as I encounter any problems and questions.. If you need any answers on woodworking or finishing,, Just ask. Thanks, David
Reply:Originally Posted by Craig in DenverOk then, you'll be back tomorrow. I agree that aluminum will work very similarly to hardwood. But there's nothing in wood working to prepare you for welding. Good luck with your quest. Learning to weld takes as long to learn as woodworking and you have to add gravity to the equation. Clue #1: all manual welding depends on puddle control; your entire universe is 1" in diameter.Craig
Reply:Advantages of metal. Your project won't change shape when the humidity hits 100%.Tough as nails and damn near as smart
Reply:I agree that aluminum will work very similarly to hardwood. But there's nothing in wood working to prepare you for welding.
Reply:Originally Posted by CinegripI appreciate the responses so far and do not want anyone to get the wrong idea when I say working aluminum is as easy as hardwood, I speak of truth when I say that. I do have the tools to work aluminum as if it were hardwood. I can make a cabinet door out of aluminum or anything else. BUT I know nothing of welding, I was just asking of the bonding and appreciate the honest answers. With this in mind I am not asking for smart answers because I do know how to work the material just honestly asking for any help with understanding welding and buying one. Thanks again. David
Reply:Thank You Fat Bastard, Very helpful and it is appreciated. I would really like to learn the craft and do quality work. I will take your advice and look into a few local classes. Have a great year.. David
Reply:Good luck and come back with pictures.
Reply:tresi i recall a thread where zap ran out of argon and had to build up a shaft with about 20 pounds of 7018. when he turned it down it was all steel,,,
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbeadtresi i recall a thread where zap ran out of argon and had to build up a shaft with about 20 pounds of 7018. when he turned it down it was all steel,,,
Reply:Personally, I would be using a MIG machine with a spoolgun.ATA Welding Technology
Reply:The REAL question is HOW MUCH aluminum welding and HOW LARGE are the pieces being welded.Aluminum acts as a large heat sink.If you are welding small parts you can use a TIG machine. You will have a lot of CONTROL.If you are welding MANY inches of welding on large parts like say an aluminum boat then a MIG welding machine is better. Not as much control and more build up. In general.Faster and more heat input at the site of the weld.If you get a MIG welding machine you have to be careful because it is a specialty area in welding.You would need to go to a place that does a lot of production like a aluminum boat building business. Most of them are in Washington state.I would ask them for the best set up.The spool guns have differences too like if the push or pull the wire and 2 rollers or 4 rollers.The company that really pioneered aluminum MIG welding was COBRAMATIC.I have been welding most of my life and i can tell you that if you want to TIG get a Miller or Lincoln Syncrowave with foot pedal and watercooling. It's the real deal not a hobby thing.If you want MIG I would ask a shop that does a lot of aluminum production welding what they use, and I am sure they will help you.Miller and Lincoln OR Cobramatic if they are still around. Also some large welding stores that supply large production business can help you.Be careful though because as you know many stores hire kids now that know nothing.AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:or maybe ask some person who knows this better to welder using an aluminum...___________________blanchard grinding
Reply:SAFE Boats International is a local company here that builds aluminum boats. I work at Olympic College in the Welding program. To get students prepared to go there, we teach them on the Miller XMT 304 CC/CV using the XR Control wire feeder. It is the same setup that they use.ATA Welding Technology |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:48:11