7064 & 6064

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My mom gave me an old 50 lb. box of lincoln 1/8 inch electrodes that my dad had in storage. He must have bought them back in the 1960's. The box says they are E7064 & 6064. What does that mean? They had drawn a bit of moisture over the years so I took them out of the cardboard box and laid them on the wood stove and dried them and repackaged them in a plastic bag. I tried welding some 1/2 mild steel at 90 and 100 amps AC and they seemed to work fine. A bit of slag to deal with, but the bead and penetration looks good. Can any of you tell me which number they are or are they a mix of both? Also, there were some 3/32 electrodes that have the number 308 - 16 on them. They weld ok flat. A real smooth bead. Can't figure what they are. Anybody familiar with that number?Thanks
Reply:308 - 16 is stainless steelG
Reply:Can you see any marks on the electrodes themselves? Before numbers were imprinted on each rod, they were marked with a a color code using three groups of colors; one on the end, another a bit higher, and the third color a series of three spots about the middle of the rod.I am not familiar with either of those two numbers but they might have been a Lincoln product or spec number before the numbering system was fully standardized.Pictures of both the box (showing markings) and the rods would be useful/interesting, IMO.BTW, what part of the world are you in? Have much humidity there?  Your rod should all be fine so long as it didn't start to rust or have the coating flake off.What did your Dad do for a living, and did it include welding? A 50# box is rather large for a hobby welder to buy, unless he got it surplus somewhere. I've found such things, but today's society is so much more wasteful that it's easier to find good stuff that's been discarded, compared to just a few decades ago.Last edited by Oldiron2; 01-25-2009 at 07:20 PM.
Reply:The E7064 $6064 rods have a yellow dot on the bare end, but nothing on the flux part of them that I can find - course they are really old and discolored from drawing some moisture and being dried out again. I live in Idaho now - pretty dry climate, but I was raised in western Oregon, that's where this material was stored for most of its life. They were stored in the attic of my parents old house. My dad was a logger and had a lot of heavy iron equipment - did a lot of welding on the old stuff - I remember because I was always his gopher on weekends and after school!!
Reply:I guess this has the experts here stumped too, 'cause nobody else has answered. For the standard AmericanWeldingSystem numbering system, (which was explained recently in another thread)  the third, fourth and fifth numbers from the right (leftmost two or three figures) give the metal strength in (x 1000 psi), the second from right gives the rod  'position' and the right figure gives type based on its flux and resulting characteristics.The 'strength' normally ranges from 60 to 120.  The 'type' numbers are 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 8. [I've never  seen 5 or 7 used, although one of my books lists  E7015]. The second position which you think is "6" for your rod, is restricted to either "1" or "2" in the AWS system, which is why I wonder if your number might be a product number combining the rod type with something else.If you don't get any better answer here, you might try mailing your question to the Lincoln Electric Co. along with any other data you can read on the can, like lot numbers. Were the markings for the stainless rod on the rod itself, or on its package?Did your father own an Arch? Any old chain saws, or 2-man crosscuts? I've spent a fair amount of time in the coastal Redwood country but for now, won't hijack this thread.........
Reply:Old iron,An older welding manual I have lists a possiblity of a "3" as the third number, specifically for flat use only.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:Lugweld;I just found one reference to an E 6036 (low hydrogen, flat pos.) rod too, in a 50's era book. I wonder if they were actually made. Did your book say much about a particular rod, or was it just discussing the classification? We need some Oldtimers to help us out here! Who here actually used the 'rods' from the 30's or 40's on up?
Reply:It was discussing classification and the meaning of the value of each number.  1 is for any position, 2 is restricted to horizontal and flat, 3 is used in flat only.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:Oldiron and guys,Please accept my appology. I dug out the old cardboard box that the electrodes were in and took a better look. The cardboard was so deteriorated (and I didn't look close enough) I read it wrong the first time. The electrode number is "E7024 & 6024" It is "not" 64. Sorry about that. Still, the question? Do you guys have a clarification on the use of two numbers instead of one for the same box of electrodes? Thanks.
Reply:Unless they just used the same steel box (with two labels) for both and put a check by the appropriate label, as is sometimes done today, I have no answer.
Reply:OK, 7024 is a common rod, flat only, needs huge amounts of amperage, but also huge deposition rate.   Used it myself, often, in the days before I switched everything over to flux-cored wires and flux-cored/gas shielded wires.   6024????   never heard of that one.  Maybe look at the numbers a little closer??When I first started,,,,,  back in the mid '70's, in high school ag shop, we had "blue" dot, "brown" dot, and "yellow" dot rods, with the passage of time, I have no idea what the colors corresponded to.   I have, however, run into a couple websites over the years, that explained the various color codes,,,,,,  perhaps a little google or yahoo searching would yield some results????
Reply:Originally Posted by mark8310OK, 7024 is a common rod, flat only, needs huge amounts of amperage, but also huge deposition rate.   Used it myself, often, in the days before I switched everything over to flux-cored wires and flux-cored/gas shielded wires.
Reply:When I first started,,,,, back in the mid '70's, in high school ag shop, we had "blue" dot, "brown" dot, and "yellow" dot rods, with the passage of time, I have no idea what the colors corresponded to. I have, however, run into a couple websites over the years, that explained the various color codes,,,,,, perhaps a little google or yahoo searching would yield some results????
Reply:Thanks guys. The electrodes all have a Yellow Dot on the bare end. Nothing else that I can see. I flat welded some mild steel channel with my AC buzzbox at about 100 amps. It seemed to work fine... It did leave a lot of slag, but it comes off quite easily as long as you let the weld bead cool good before you hit it with a slag hammer. It does have a distinctive smell!! I'm not sure I like it though!! Doesn't bring back fond memories for me!!
Reply:Current Lincoln catalog lists a Jetweld-1 7024-1 and a Jetweld-3 7024 stick electrode.Electrode class listing  http://www.esabna.com/EUWeb/FM_handbook/577fm1_2.htmE7024 is an iron powder, fast deposit, soft arc, light penetration, AC or DC(EP and EN) flat and horizontal position rod with a nominal 70ksi tensile strength.E6024 would be pretty much the same with a nominal 60 ksi tensile strength.Lincoln Jetweld-1 and Jetweld-3 1/8 inch suggested amperage is 115-175 amps AC and 100-160 amps DC (EN or EP).  Lincoln says this class of electrode (7024-1, 7024, and 6027) has the highest deposition rate of any electrode class and an easy to remove slag.And as already mentioned, the 308-16 electrodes are 308 stainless steel electrodes.  They are usually used for welding on 302 and 304 stainless steel.Last edited by MoonRise; 01-27-2009 at 04:23 PM.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:The 7024 is a great rod. It is a JET rod or a DRAG rod and has a high deposition rate.Iron powder Rod.The great thing about that rod is it is 70,000 psi tensile strength and since it deposits lots of metal it is great for fillet welds. On boat decks it is great for fillets along the cabin or bulwarks or toe rail to prevent corrosion by having a nice smooth radius.The slag if allowed to cool for a minute or so comes off by itself practically.Do not hit the slag with the pointed end of a slag hammer. Instead just take the opposite blade end of the slag hammer and tap the slag lightly transverse across the weld. The slag will pop right off.And 7024 can be just dragged along the surface.AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder