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How do I keep my welding table from rusting.

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发表于 2021-9-1 00:47:17 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
I know this seems like a dumb question, but here goes. I am a weekend warrior and I have no space for my welding table in my garage. I live in an upity (sp?) neighborhood, so I plan on putting the welding table on some casters and roll it behind my privacy fence when not in use. I plan on painting everything except the welding surface. Since I will be leaving it outside can I finish the table top in some sort of way that is still conductive that wont rust? Or is my only choice to slather it with oil and cover it up with plastic or tarp when not in use. I came up with some ideas to make the table fold up, to fit in the garage,  but still will probably take up to much space, so it's best left outside.Thanks,Allen
Reply:Oil it but don't wrap it in plastic that would just keep any moisture trapped next to the surface.
Reply:Maybe build the top from stainless?MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:I have worked in places with really nice blanchard ground tables and they used car wax on the surface.Yup
Reply:Get some of this stuff I use it on my tablesaw http://www.boeshield.com/
Reply:PMS productsThat just hit me the wrong wayA butterfly without wings, is just an ugly bug
Reply:Try fluid film on it. There is a guy named dan on a forum called plowsite that gives out free sample cans. I'm sure he's on others, but that's the one I know of. Morton Salt uses it:Fluid Film® is used to protect locomotive drive chains on salt harvesting machinery. Testing was conducted to show that Fluid Film® extends drive chain life by 300%.
Reply:The fluid-film works real good on trucks . My brother and I use it on our plow trucks here in jersey .
Reply:Use it?That will keep the rust chased away.  Constant use keeps a table nice and polished.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:I would use stainless.The table does not have to be large if you are welding small parts.If you are needing a table to build gates and things then you can leave it outside to rust.AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:Well minner I'd say it seems that wasn't such a dumb question after all.  A bunch of good information came out as a result of it.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:get the anti-spatter in a spray can and spray it down good when you quit using it.I'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:We have some tables outside and if you use them that will keep the rust off. If it does rust, its only going to be just a little surface rust, by the time you throw some steel on that table and move it around, you will break the surface rust up. Just use it that is all i have to say.
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Well minner I'd say it seems that wasn't such a dumb question after all.  A bunch of good information came out as a result of it.
Reply:You could always make your table out of aluminum.
Reply:If it were me and I was worried about the rust I would just paint the whole table and just clamp to the work. If I needed to use the table for my ground I would just grind it clean and after using it I would paint it again. I have two tables that I use outside. One is small and painted, and one is big ( !/2 inch top ) and not painted. I do most of my work on the smaller table and clamp to the work. It is kind of aggravating sometimes moving the clamp but you said you were a weekend guy... like me. My big table, well I figure it will be here at least a 100 years after I am gone.
Reply:I suppose the low tech thing to do would just buy a knotted wire cup brush, and give it a swipe every time you need to weld.  I weld rusty metal all the time, and attach the work lead to rusty metal, doesn't seem to make for a big problem.Sounds like you're dealin' with one of those crappy homeowners associations.  Good luck with that."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:As a couple have said, use it. I have one that has been sitting out since it was built and that was around 1975. It is painted except for the top and that has never had paint on it except when I used it to support something I was painting. Once in a while I will lay my grinder flat on the table and buzz the spatter and any tacks off. Rust hasn't been a problem at all. When I get paint on it that is a problem and I run a wire brush on it to get rid of the paint.
Reply:Originally Posted by 6010if it were me and i was worried about the rust i would just paint the whole table and just clamp to the work. If i needed to use the table for my ground i would just grind it clean and after using it i would paint it again. I have two tables that i use outside. One is small and painted, and one is big ( !/2 inch top ) and not painted. I do most of my work on the smaller table and clamp to the work. It is kind of aggravating sometimes moving the clamp but you said you were a weekend guy... Like me. My big table, well i figure it will be here at least a 100 years after i am gone.
Reply:Thanks for the ton replies guys, got some really good opinions. I'll check out some of those lubricant products. A gallon of WD-40 is probably around $20, but I'd bet those specialty products are WAY over that, but it won’t hurt to look. Stainless would probably be the best option, but would dip into the budget a little too deep for upfront costs. Last night I came up with a fold-up design in my head that might work. I think I'll draw it up in SolidWorks and see how it looks. Originally Posted by Broccoli1Yeah, and I never knew there were Upity neighborhoods in Alabama
Reply:Huntsville is a cool place. "Rocket City", and called that for a good reason. Betcha never thought you'd find the worlds top rocket scientists in Alabama either. LOLPersonally, I'd be much more upset about oil on my table than I would about a little rust. Like others have said, if you use it fairly regularly, rust won't be an issue.Miller EconotigCutmaster 38Yes ma'am, that IS a screwdriver in my pocket!
Reply:my steel table has never been inside, no protective anything. i weld things to it, i practice on it, i grind it off when i think it needs some...
Reply:Miner, to keep the work surface rust free, wire brush it with a power brush, wipe it down with acetone and then coat it with WD40.  When you are ready to use it wipe the WD40 off with acetone and you are good to go.  Using any coating with hydro-carbons is not a good idea unless you clean the surface with acetone before welding.  Makes for nasty smoke and flames and can even contaminate some metals such as SS.I never painted my tables because I wanted to be able to ground the table as well as the work piece.
Reply:Minner, I think Fat Bastard has the best info - just oil it and use a solvent to clean for usage. As for the stainless steel table, I was pricing mild steel and am surprised that it keeps rising in price here in Kansas City (2'x3'x3/8" top alone is $113) so I thought about using a food preparation table that I bought in 2002 for $150 but never assembled it. It is 30"x4'x 18ga, not exactly welding table material. Before going that route I decided to check and see if the price of it has risen also and found that $150, 304stainless steel table is now selling for over $1500. http://www.advancetabco.com/search_r...68&submit.y=24After getting over the sticker shock, I might have to post it on craigslist and see if someone will buy it for enough money to pay for my own designed table. Goodluck! SteveJunkYard Tools .com
Reply:Originally Posted by Jay DubyaMiner, to keep the work surface rust free . . . then coat it with WD40.  When you are ready to use it wipe the WD40 off with acetone . . .Originally Posted by NiteskyIs Canadian WD40 different?  Dries up without any residue left.  Doesn't appear to be any evidence of oil in it at all.  Is a poor choice for lubrication.Maybe I have to go to the States to get the good stuff?
Reply:I did a little experiment a few years ago. I took three peices of metal and polished them. I then coated lightly one piece with WD-40, one with Rem Oil, and one with 3 in 1 oil. I was trying to find out which one would be better for my guns. I put the pieces on the window sill outside. After about a month I looked at them. They all looked the same, none had started rusting yet. I can't remember what the weather was but I am sure it probably rained during that time, but I don't know it the pieces got wet.You need to google and see all the uses for WD-40. I have heard it can triple or better your catfish catch if you spray any bait you are using with it before you cast out your line. One of my friends said he would not go down to San Tee without it. I am going to try it on bass this year when they start bedding.
Reply:If you think wd 40 is good for rust prevention, check out that link I posted for fluid film. That stuff is truly amazing and clings to the surface instead of just dripping off.
Reply:I also don't have much space either.  My welding table -- about 2.5 X 3.5 ft sits on top of a Black and Decker folding workmate bench.  4 - 3/4' or so bolts 3 inches long drop into the holes in the top of the bench.  I drop it on, extend or tighten the spreading top and it's solid.  When not in use both the top and bench lean up against the wall.  I haven't noticed any burning of he wooden top of the bench because it really only touches at the bolts since the bolt heads are larger than the table top holes so it sort of floats above most of the wooden top.Works or me -- isn't very large but then again, neither are most of my projects.  When I need a larger space, its the garage floor.I've added a cutting table (slotted 1x1" square tube  frame about the same size as the table with 1 inch X 1/8" strap for the top so when the strapping gets too cut up it can be replaced) is hinged to one side of the welding table top with removable legs on the side away from the hinge.Should take a pic as it would be easier to explain.Bob
Reply:Originally Posted by NiteskyIs Canadian WD40 different?  Dries up without any residue left.  Doesn't appear to be any evidence of oil in it at all.  Is a poor choice for lubrication.Maybe I have to go to the States to get the good stuff?
Reply:Originally Posted by SandySince wd-40 was the result of R&D to develop a rust preventive, my guess is that it isn't one of the worst by anymeans. It is also as good as a lubricant as any of the "door hinge" sprays that are out there. No it isn't any good for heavy lube tasks. One of the attractive characteristics is that it does drive away water, so coating something with wd-40 is a fair option if rust prevention is the goal. It's not heavy enough to last for great lengths of time, but it is not messy to clean up and is easily re-applied.
Reply:Originally Posted by 6010I did a little experiment a few years ago. I took three peices of metal and polished them. I then coated lightly one piece with WD-40, one with Rem Oil, and one with 3 in 1 oil. I was trying to find out which one would be better for my guns. I put the pieces on the window sill outside. After about a month I looked at them. They all looked the same, none had started rusting yet. I can't remember what the weather was but I am sure it probably rained during that time, but I don't know it the pieces got wet.You need to google and see all the uses for WD-40. I have heard it can triple or better your catfish catch if you spray any bait you are using with it before you cast out your line. One of my friends said he would not go down to San Tee without it. I am going to try it on bass this year when they start bedding.
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