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First, hi everyone, I have been gathering information from this site for a while, it's an awesome database.I recently bought a Diversion TIG welder for my home shop, since I have welded steel with a O/A torch and MIG'ed some aluminium, I jumped to TIG aluminium.The plates are very easy even if I really need a more constant hand, the finger heat control is a PITA if you ask me and cause me to wander when I use it.I have no clue what it the plate I'm practicing with but it's very shiny, the problem comes when I try to weld some dull aluminium pipe either together or with the plate, on one piece I could read 6061, I'm using 4043 filler and Ar as shielding gas.The problem seem to be a very contaminated weld or excessive oxide even at 25CFM.Thanks for help, that pipe will be an injector bung in an airbox.I can do an acceptable job brushing the weld and go over again with the torch, but there's got to be a better way.Last edited by gboezio; 03-24-2009 at 05:24 PM.
Reply:That looks like alum from here. And 6061 is alum. 4043 is ok. Maybe too much stick out, which changes with each joint type. This causes poor shielding. For me, alum is more sensitive than mild steel. I just went through alum welds looking like that a week ago in class. I like to use a #8 cup (1/2" ID), more coverage.Another possibility is too long an arc length, a common mistake for me in a fillet weld; when my concentration drifts. TIG likes a short arc, try for 1/8" or less. And contrary to my above comment, maybe a little more stick out. A gas lens will put up with more stick out. When butt welding, like one pic, try to have a backing to dissipate the heat. Alum gets hot fast, especially with an open pattern like that. As soon as the puddle starts, get a dip of filler in, this will add a little mass and help with the burn away.Good Luck, learning alum can be humbling. Got humbled tonight, in class, again. 9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:What kind of tungsten are you using?
Reply:Originally Posted by Craig in DenverThat looks like alum from here. And 6061 is alum. 4043 is ok. Maybe too much stick out, which changes with each joint type. This causes poor shielding. For me, alum is more sensitive than mild steel. I just went through alum welds looking like that a week ago in class. I like to use a #8 cup (1/2" ID), more coverage.Another possibility is too long an arc length, a common mistake for me in a fillet weld; when my concentration drifts. TIG likes a short arc, try for 1/8" or less. And contrary to my above comment, maybe a little more stick out. A gas lens will put up with more stick out. When butt welding, like one pic, try to have a backing to dissipate the heat. Alum gets hot fast, especially with an open pattern like that. As soon as the puddle starts, get a dip of filler in, this will add a little mass and help with the burn away.Good Luck, learning alum can be humbling. Got humbled tonight, in class, again.
Reply:Had a better day, still fighting 6061 but it's getting better, I'm building my airbox alreadyGot scotchbrite, day and night and I'm getting used to the finger control, I almost like it.
Reply:Alright! Your airbox is looking good. All I have to add is this: small diameter welds need to be short, with several stops, starts, relocate, restarts, etc. Unless you're double jointed. 9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Try a Zirconated electrode. It wont contaminate as quickly.
Reply:Pure tungsten for aluminum. Here's a chart for the various tungsten electrodes. Hope it helps.Tungsten Welding Electrode ------------------------------------------------------------------------------WolfPower Tungsten Electrodes Selection Chart Color Principally Used On Green EWP Pure Tungsten Aluminum Magnesium Gold EWLa- 1.5 1,5% Lanthanated Tungsten Carbon Steels Stainless Steels Nickel Nickel Alloys Titanium Copper Alloys Red EWTh - 2 2% Thoriated Tungsten Carbon Steels Stainless Steels Nickel Nickel Alloys Titanium Copper Alloys Turqoise EWG Rare Earth Tungsten Carbon Steels Stainless Steels Nickel Nickel Alloys Titanium Copper Alloys Orange EWCe-2 2% Ceriated Tungsten Carbon Steels Stainless Steels Nickel Nickel Alloys Titanium Copper Alloys Brown EWZr - 1 1% Zirconiated Tungsten Carbon Steels Stainless Steels Nickel Nickel Alloys Titanium Copper Alloys
Reply:Paweldor:Since the Diversion is an inverter, green is a bad choice for any material. 9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Originally Posted by Craig in DenverAlright! Your airbox is looking good. All I have to add is this: small diameter welds need to be short, with several stops, starts, relocate, restarts, etc. Unless you're double jointed.
Reply:Originally Posted by Craig in DenverPaweldor:Since the Diversion is an inverter, green is a bad choice for any material.
Reply:Thanks for comments, the Orange tungsten will round back to about 1/3 of the diameter, I haven't sharpened in a while, I had to weld the inside of the airbox and this is where it gets tricky, bending filler and work the torch at really odd angles but hell I did it, the mounting flanges are badly bent now, I will have them ground flat, need to get the injectors before I can go any further, hate waiting...
Reply:Originally Posted by ericmSo, this recommendation has nothing to do with limiting the HAZ, warping, or blowthrough,but rather reflects the observation that the hands only operate efficiently within a small region of space (i.e., without stopping the weld, moving your hands, and then doing a new weld)?
Reply:Originally Posted by paweldorI stand corrected. Here's an excerpt from the Miller brochure on the Diversion. Green can still be used however: With the introduction of new power source technologies, the use of pure tungsten is decreasing. Pure tungsten melts at a lower temperature causing it to easily form a rounded ball at the tip. When the ball grows too large, it interferes with your ability to see the weld puddle and causes the arc to become unstable. Ceriated tungsten can withstand higher temperatures and works very well with the new squarewave and inverter machines for the following reasons: Holds a point longer and starts well at low amperages. Can be used on both AC and DC polarities. When welding aluminum, it has become very acceptable to grind a point on ceriated tungsten (especially when welding on thinner materials). Allows welding amperages to be increased by 25-30% compared to Pure tungsten of the same diameter.
Reply:Thanks a lot, it seems that the 6061 do better with the torch very close, it seem to break down the oxide layer faster concentrating the cleaning power, then I could go in circles and extend the puddle and maintain it. The problem was that before I could see bare aluminium to dip in, it was falling down still covered in oxides, if I could, I'll shift my AC balance to get more electrode positive.Sometimes just before I burn trough, I try to dip to chill the puddle and it balls and the whole arc is wandering around the ball. So I started to clean everything like crazy scotchbrite was nice but for this stuff I used a grinder mounted stainless brush and to clean the filler rod and surface and had the best results, next I'm gonna try to backpurge, since it's getting way easier when I have a pass underneath, I guess that some oxide comes from the bottom. Holding the torch closer to 90° angle seem to help gas coverage too.For the electrode, it came with an orange tungsten, I guess that Miller knew it was well suited for this machine and for beginner hands.Overall the Diversion is a good welder, I like it, but to go pro it's definitely lacking power, I think I could weld 1/4 Al with a good bevel and pre heat but in very short passes, the torch gets hot and the welder fan works for a while after.The finger control really begin to be fun to work with, I use only one leather glove and a Mechanix glove on the torch hand for dexterity.I totally enjoy being a noob at TIG, it's a fun world and discovering the immense possibilities of what my insane mind could build with this process is jaw dropping.Big thanks at the pros and more experienced weldors to coach the rookies.Last edited by gboezio; 03-29-2009 at 08:09 AM.
Reply:Just looking at the pics and having used a finger control for about a month at work, I would say with a foot control you will have better welds on aluminum due to the ability to have greater control.. IMHO.. I had the issue of when trying to ramp down the amps, I found my hand rotating some while reducing amps thus making the puddles irregular and inconsistant shapes... and IMO looked liked crap... but they accepted it due to they required the hand control and I requested the foot control. One week later I had a foot control at my machine! LOL..If you follow the instructions previously given above in other posts.. ( push down on pedal, weld, lift up on peda some, move, push down on pedal, weld, move, etc. etc... )Last edited by smokeshow; 03-29-2009 at 08:36 AM.
Reply:"It seems that the 6061 do better with the torch very close,"All metals weld better with a short arc, not just 6061. Backpurging isn't necessary for alum, the AC+ handles it pretty well. AskAndy on another board says that Miller did an excellent job with the preset balance settings on the Diversion, so don't worry about the non-adjustable. I believe your problem with the piece sinking without cleaning is from the long arc length, which causes poor shielding and overheating. When welding, my stickout is so short, that I have to lean guite far to my left, to see. The steeper your torch angle the better, for the most part.Make sure your mechanics glove isn't nylon or some other synthetic plastic. When melted to your finger, they're hard, and painful, to remove. "And discovering the immense possibilities of what my insane mind could build with this process is jaw dropping." Yep, if you can dream it, you can build it. And with alum, there's no prepping and painting, which leaves more time for dreaming. Last edited by Craig in Denver; 03-29-2009 at 03:18 PM.9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Clean 'clean and then clean. Wipe it down with acetone and a clean cotton ar disposable rag. Use stainless steel wire brushes,I guess scotchbrite is OK. Don't use the brushes for anything else. Once it is shinny two inches back from the joint and wipe it with acetone again.Tough as nails and damn near as smart
Reply:Originally Posted by gboezio2% Ceriated 3/16
Reply:Originally Posted by Static-XJSure you don't mean 3/32? |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:46:48