Which Welding Process Is Right for Me?

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I'm in a welding class right now that's teaching gas, stick, MIG, and TIG welding. I've talked with my instructor a little bit about this, but I'd like a wider range of opinions. In general, though, I'm not at all worried about the speed of welding. I also don't care how difficult it is to learn, regardless of process, I'll take the time to master it. I do care about how the finished product looks, I'll be giving away or selling some of what I make.My welding needs are mostly focused on 3 areas: 1) making stuff for the car ( I race and frequently need custom parts or custom repairs ) 2) making small decorative things/sculptures 3) repairing tools or making fixtures for tools. For working on the car, I'm talking things like stainless steel exhausts, custom stainless brackets for hardware in the engine bay, square and round stainless or aluminum tube and bar for custom lighting or instrumentation fixtures, and aluminum for underbody protection. Thicknesses range from very thin wall for the stainless exhaust tubing to 3/16" aluminum for the under armor. There's a slight chance that could get thicker in the future but I kind of doubt it.As far as small metal art, I'm mostly talking about things like those dogs made of nuts and sheet metal, etc. I think they're silly, but damned if my family doesn't love them. I've been brazing them together with a borrowed torch so far, but I'd like to be able to do this on my own. I'd also like to be able to do stuff like make chairs, bookcases, etc for around the house.For tools and fixtures, I'm talking about repairing cracks, making tables or stands, etc.So considering my likely metals (some mild steel, lots of stainless and aluminum), thickness range (thin tubing/sheet up to 3/16" now, maybe more later), and other concerns, which process is the most useful to me?Thanks guys,Ty
Reply:It sounds like you need a torch and a real good quality AC/DC tig machine, probably an inverter, one in the 200 amp range would be very nice. More power is a good thing when thickness increases or when working with aluminum.City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:I think you answered you own question, TIG is what you need
Reply:I've seen posts on various welding forums that express the opinion that for the craftsman/handyman there is no welder other than an AC/DC TIG needed.  In fact, I've seen comments about getting rid of mig welders because they're superfluous next to a good TIG machine.I see no need (speaking for myself only) to limit welding to one process, so I'll stick with multi-process (I do covet AC TIG though).  If I had to choose one processs though, I'd pick AC/DC TIG.  The good thing about that choice is that TIG machines include SMAW (stick) capability as a rule.ScottMiller XMT 350 CC/CV w/gas solenoid opt.Miller S-22A wirefeederBernard 400A "Q" gunMiller Spoolmatic 30A / WC-24C-K 200A torch/gas lensWeldcraft WC-18 watercooled torchHypertherm Powermax 30Victor O/A
Reply:If TIG welding on aluminum, you will need High Frequency (HF) or AC/DC HF.  John GaultSMAW,GMAW,FCAW,GTAW,SAW,PAC/PAW/OFCand Shielding Gases.  There all here. :
Reply:Miller Dynasty 200dx, we have 2 of them, the guys love  them, and they plug into anything. The duty cycle is good for steel and stainless, the pulsing and variable offset and frequency on ac is great for aluminum, especially the thin stuff up to about 3/16".  And it can stick weld real good when you just have to weld heavier steel, like that trailer, or bumper on your tow rig. 200 amps is about the lower limit for Aluminum on auto projects, just my observation. 3/16 to 1/4 is about the limit.           This thing is also portable, about 80 lbs, will weld .093 4140 steel running on 120V on a 100 ft cord, and makes fair welders look good. It likes 3 phase  better for full power aluminum welding.          Just make sure you have a water cooled torch if you are going to do much aluminum. -but then again, a good air cooled torch will make you more aware of duty cycle. For heavy work this isn't a good as the old airco, Linde,  Miller gold star or Lincoln tigs. But those weigh about 400 to 600 lbs and take about 60 - 100 amps. We have a Miller Syncro Wave 300s with a water cooled torch, it will blow a 100 amp 208v  fuse welding 3/4" plate. It was the "baby" of the old weld shop. (we used to be a miller training center, had 12,000 square feet of everthing in the catalog. Plus hobart and lincoln subarcs, 20 boothes, 23' deep dive tank, x-ray, machine shop, metalurgy lab etc. it was all closed out a few years ago.... just running a prototype shop now. )          We sold off a dozen 10 to 30 year old  400, 600, and 800 amp machines last year to buy the 2nd dynasty. Shows the relative prices of new and used.           If you don't have to move it much, and have the power, the big used ones can be better, and a LOT cheaper to buy. If you have to move it, power is limited, and you have the money, the inverter machine seems to be a good investment.          Miller and lincoln also have fairly good midrange machines - less power, lots less money. Some times it makes sense to do what we do, have the old heavy welder in one place, bring heavy work to it, and get a smaller one for portable use.Last edited by wesdavidson; 05-11-2009 at 02:22 PM.Reason: spelling.past work toys; lathes,mills, drills, saws,  robots, lasers ironworker, shears, brake, press, grinders, tensile tester,  torches, tigs, migs, sticks, platten table, positioner,  plasmas , gleeble and spot. Retired June 30, 2009.