Stainless inside corner tricks

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Does anyone have a good method for putting a no. 4 finish on stainless in an inside corner situation after welding? Attached Images
Reply:sorry, i dont have a solution, but stainless steel in the picture is sexy
Reply:I use a Dremel with a carbide tip on it for tight situations like that. It's not going to match the finish shown in your pics, tho. They do make different pieces for the Dremel that will work after the welds are smoothed. A pneumatic die grinder would be a better and faster option, they have different attachments also. Experiment with either to get the look you want.Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.                                         -Cree Indian ProverbSA 200 LincolnVictor Torches
Reply:Would something like this have small enough radius at end to do the job? Attached ImagesTeddCoHTP Microcut 400 & Invertig 160DC  Smith Dual Guard MD-510 OA Rig  Lincoln SP135+  Hobart Stickmate LX 235/160
Reply:We usually use an acid wash to remove the color from the welds, then either leave it like that or if it has to be #4 finish use 3m pads on an angle grinder.   The pads will go right into the joint but usually wont get all the color off the beads which is why we wash them. You can also just wire brush the weld before it cools to remove the color, then hit with the pad.  We also have a few pneumatic belt sanders like pictured, but they wont get into the corner.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:Please explain to who us who only deal with big dirty stuff what a #4 finish is. I have had a few jobs I wanted to give a #2 finish though. let me add that your work looks fine the way is.Tough as nails and damn near as smart
Reply:#4 is a brushed finish like you would find on a kitchen sink.  Usually done with abrasive belts in 120-150gr range.  We use rough scotchbrite pads and its fairly similar but slightly smoother.#2 finish is how most sheet comes from the mill.  2B is the most common on sheet material, plate usually comes in 0-1 finish I believe.  I not sure how you would make a 2b finish as its very smooth with no finishing lines but its also not polished like #8.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:Originally Posted by sn0border88#4 is a brushed finish like you would find on a kitchen sink.  Usually done with abrasive belts in 120-150gr range.  We use rough scotchbrite pads and its fairly similar but slightly smoother.#2 finish is how most sheet comes from the mill.  2B is the most common on sheet material, plate usually comes in 0-1 finish I believe.  I not sure how you would make a 2b finish as its very smooth with no finishing lines but its also not polished like #8.
Reply:Did a little looking around because I wasnt exactly sure what all the finish numbers were.  #1 is standard cold rolled finish, a white-grey color.  This is how you get plate, angle iron and most pipe/thicker tube from the supplier. 2-7 are simply increasingly greater levels of finish with some finishing marks left on them. #8 which I also commonly work with is a perfect mirror finish with no marks at all.  It can be a real pain to work with because as soon as you breathe on it, you usually damage the finish.  It does result in some amazing looking products though.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:For tight corners I start with a coarse emery cloth then work my way down to get the grain going the right direction then switch to scotch bright to give it the final #4 finish. It just takes elbow grease. If you find a better way please post it. I have a dyna file like someone posted with a very small fron wheel on it, it would probably work for your particular weld, but when doing the bottom of a square sink the grain goes in 2 different directions so it's all hand work.Er70s-2P.s. Use WD-40 or varsol for a lube when using the emery cloth.
Reply:id try to epoxy  emory cloth strip to a 20p nail, cut the head off and chuck it into a drill//worth a try?
Reply:I've used something similiar in the past. It works, but really slow, good for when all else fails. The way i did it: cut a slot down the length of a peice of solid stock, i used 3/8" hex stock but anything you can chuck in a drill will work, then slip a strip of scotch brite in there.
Reply:A carbide burr can rough down the weld puddles or bypass the burring anduse cartridge rolls.Cartridge rolls on a mandrel work well with electric or air die grinders.They come in a wide variety of dia's. and grits; are quickly unthreaded from themandrel.See my post #7 in below link for basic pics.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=29998I get this stuff from McMaster-Carr.Blackbird
Reply:Scotch brite flapper wheels are the way to go with this one.(google it) Should be fairly easy to match teh grain you have going there. Used to do this all the time when I was welding stainless electrical enclosures. You didn't mention grinding down the weld in your original post but if you are looking for that super smooth look without spending loads of time grinding ditch the dab method and walk the cup. Nice welds btw.