TIG - cleanup ?

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When cleaning a TIG joint, most of you seasoned pros recommend a wipedown with acetone.  Can one subtitute something like brake cleaner, lacquer thinner, carb cleaner, or other high VOC solvent - or is there something special about acetone?
Reply:I dont and never have used acetone. I'm not saying its not the way clean. But, I wouldn't recommened the carb cleaner, brake cleaner etc... I've used brake cleaner in the past and the fumes are nasty. I'm sure there is someone else that will get further into it. Be patient.
Reply:the debate over what solvent to use for cleaning before TIG welding is an old, well-chewed bone.  Everybody has their own preference.  Use whatever you think works best.  I'll only offer the following advice.Don't use something that leaves any residue behind.  Simple, pure solvents work best.  those with higher flash points are generally safer.  Always use adequate ventilation and allow sufficient time for the solvent to evaporate.  Remove solvents from the welding/cutting/grinding work area before generating heat/sparks.Don't use anything that contains any halogenated(containing Chlorine, Bromine, Fluorine, etc.) compounds or phosphates.  The heat and UV light can cause these chemicals to breakdown or react to produce toxic fumes.Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:I prefer cleaning by mechanical means. Wire wheel, scotchbrite, or paint removing disks usally can do a better, and faster, job than chemicals. Unless it's something soft or gooey like grease, then I'll go for lacquer thinner. Lacquer thinner contains a high percentage of acetone plus a few other solvents so it get's pretty much everything and drys quickly. But I like to do a final clean by mechanical means before welding, as solvents sometimes can dissolve something and then redeposit it when they dry.
Reply:Solvent degrease/clean, then mechanical cleaning (grind, abrasive, wire, etc as needed), then solvent clean again.Depending on just how dirty the item(s) are, may call for more than one chemical to be used.  Not all at once though.As mentioned, safety is important to consider with solvents.  The fumes, the flammability, the breakdown products if intense heat and/or UV (from the welding arc) interact with the solvent(s), etc all MUST be considered.  In industrial/commercial settings, there will be regulatory concerns with pretty much everything you do.Acetone is a 'decent' solvent for many hydrocarbon gunks (grease, oil, etc) and is not too expensive, so it is used.For small(er) items, a quick spray with some brake cleaner seems to work pretty well for me.  Let dry or blow it dry with some dry (filtered!) compressed air.  If your compressed air 'sprays' out (oil, rust, water, etc) then don't use that.  You are trying to clean the part(s), not recoat them with crud!Clean the part(s) well.And be aware of safety when using solvents and tools and heat and, etc, etc.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:If you use brakekleen,  get the non-chlorinated stuff.  Unless you like getting sick...
Reply:The non-chlorinated brakleen is really quite good. It leaves very little residue(hence why it's safe for brake components) and get's the job done quickly and easily.I use it whenever there is a need to clean, and I use it after mechanical cleaning.Great for removing the fingerprints off of aluminum projects etc.Acetone is a little wild for me to have around.
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmIf you use brakekleen,  get the non-chlorinated stuff.  Unless you like getting sick...
Reply:i used a product from CMT (router bits, saw blades...) called formula 2050, blade and bit cleaner.it is very user freindly.i had it jying around when i was playing with some beer cans and used it before sanding the "skin" off the cans and then again after sanding cause i used alum oxide paperi cant seem to find out what is in it, but it realy cleans up woodworking saw blades.Things that we used to use oven cleaner for.the cans welded up fine....but the testing continues.anyone try it?"edit" found a sheet on it.can anyone comment on this as a pre tig cleaner?(too many big words for me) Attached Images172_formula_2050_msds.pdf (73.7 KB, 16 views)Last edited by gordfraser; 07-02-2009 at 06:20 PM.G
Reply:Acetone is pretty good for grimey surfaces, but xylene works better i think.Be sure to wear rubber gloves,safety glasses,and a respirator. These both have nasty fumes. Also obviously,make sure that ALL of the solvent is evaporated before striking an arc. You can use other solvents. I like using a 1" S.S.  030 wire brush on my angle grinder, Remember you are trying to get the metal as clean as possible so it never hurts to grind, use a wire brush and a solvent. I usually do it in this order, solvent,grind,wire brush. Basically, Get the metal as clean as possible no matter what it takes!!"My fingernails are melting"