What Am I Doing Wrong?

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Okay, I've got two flat pieces of regular steel and I'm using a Lincoln Percision TIG 225 set on 100 DC negative.  Argon is running 18-20 psi and I'm using ER70S-2 3/32 filler.  I initially tacked it with an ARC welder, so that's what that slag is.  Is the metal not clean enough?  Thanks for any suggestions. Attached Images
Reply:i dont see any grind marks in the metal .how did you clean it? argon should be maybe 15 cfh, not psi.looks like you couild break it over your knee withall that porosity..in additionto surface contaminants the stick weld is adding  crud as well..and not to be fussy, but arc welding i believe is anything with an electric arc  and incudes stick tig and wirefeed...in this case you tacked it with stick?
Reply:I would say turn the argon down to 12 cfh if welding inside and try it again.
Reply:How close are you holding the tungsten rod and the cup to the puddle?  If you are not consistent with arc and cup distance, you're contaminating the puddle, thus the voids (holes).  If you're not maintaining the filler rod within the shielding gas protection prior to introducing it in to the puddle, it also causes the problems you're having.  Keep trying, you'll get it.  Takes lots of practice.  Also, clean well prior to welding.
Reply:I cleaned it with a rag and brake cleaner.  Yes, I tacked it with the stick.  Here's another one that I did scrubbing the metal with brake cleaner and the rag.  I'll turn the argon down for the next pass and try that.  Thanks for the replys. Attached Images
Reply:2nd sample looks better then the first.  What did you change from the first sample?I suggest using 99% Isoprophenal alcahol for cleaning.  The brake cleaner may have some element that is causing the oxidation seen before.  Also, is this a V grove or a butt?
Reply:GRIND the weld area then clean it.Get all the scale off..Down to the steel......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:If you're going to clean with a chemical, which you shouldn't have to do on steel unless it's very greasy, clean with acetone or denatured alchohol rather than brake cleaner.   Brake cleaner leaves a residue behind that adds contamination to the weld.  All you should need to do to get it ready to weld is grind off the mill scale with an angle grinder and abrasive grinding disc and you'll be ready to weld.I think  your problem is maybe holding the tunsten too far from the work, or maybe too much tunsten sticking out from the cup.  Hold the tip of the tungsten no more than 1/8" from the work and set the tunsten with no more than 1/2" sticking out from the rim of the cup.  15 cfh should be fine on the gas flow.  Make sure  you're using pure argon, not argon/co2 mix gas.  Mix is for mig welding not tig.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:You guys got to remember that any chemical that you ad to the weld area is going to go up in smoke and into your lungs. I only use chem cleaners when I have no other option. Just grind were your going to weld. Is the plate your trying to weld possibly galvinized? You can not TIG that.Go hot, or go home!
Reply:Looks like your welding outside with a breeze blowing, or maybe inside with a fan blowing your shielding gas away.Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC (Sold)Miller Dialarc 250HFMiller MM251Miller MM200 (Sold)Miller MM130Miller Spot WelderVictor O/A rigMiller Spoolmatic 1 (Sold)
Reply:Do not, repeat, do not use brake cleaner for anything other than cleaning brakes. This website is full of posts about the toxic effects of brake cleaner being turned into phosgene gas (used in WW1 to kill people). I use isopropyl alcohol for cleaning, sometimes acetone.
Reply:Good thinkin Maarty - check thishttp://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...light=phosgeneA butterfly without wings, is just an ugly bug
Reply:As others said, TIG won't put up with mill scale. You have to use a grinding wheel or flap disk to remove it, depending on the quality of the piece you're making. You can't remove it with a wire brush in an angle grinder, that will only polish the mill scale and it will still screw up your weld.Stickout should be no more than 1/2 of your cup inside diameter.9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Originally Posted by Magnetic MechanicGood thinkin Maarty - check thishttp://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...light=phosgene
Reply:There is absolutlely no reason to clean carbon steel with any solvent. Grind / machined to bright metal is all that is required.
Reply:Originally Posted by ARAMP1I cleaned it with a rag and brake cleaner.
Reply:The porosity and the brown rusty dust is a tell-tale sign of poor gas coverage.  It could be lack of gas flow, too much gas flow (turbulence), wind blowing the gas away, or the gas getting blown away by evaporating cleaning fluid.Be sure you have a regulator with adjustable flow (not adjustable pressure, although you could probably get it set right if you had a way to measure the flow).  Be sure you are indoors without any draft.  Quit using any solvent cleaner and just grind or wire brush it until shiny.  Edit: When you hit the pedal do you hear a little "pssssh" of gas flow?Last edited by AndyA; 09-02-2009 at 09:46 PM.Dynasty200DX w/coolmate1MM210MM VintageESAB miniarc161ltsLincoln AC225Victor O/A, Smith AW1ACutmaster 81IR 2475N7.5FPRage3Jancy USA1019" SBAEAD-200LE
Reply:There's definitely a lack of shielding going on there or severe weld contamination.How much tungsten stick out u using?Arc length?What size cup?Welding inside or outside? Windy conditions?JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Just wanted to thank those who responded to help with this post.  I'm new to TIG also, and figured I'd try out the advice given here on some welds.  Knowing where to make the adjustments made all the difference.  I cleaned more thoroughly and adjusted the gas down some and all the porosity went away as did the occasional rusty dusty look.  Aramp1, I hope you see similar improvement.So two things:  1) I appreciate someone being humble enough to ask for help, including less than self-flattering pictures  2)  Answers to specific questions can reach far past the person who asked.EMT-P, USN (retarded), part-time blacksmithLTEC & Linde Heliarc 250 HF, Millermatic 185,Victor/Uniweld O/A and propanelathes/mills/shapers/power hammers/etc
Reply:It's just a lack of gas coverage. I don't think I've every welded through any contaminate that would cause that kind of swiss cheese. And I have welded through some BS. It's either a breeze blowing through your shielding gas or you are holding your torch waaaaay to far away from the steel.
Reply:i see lots of people with that dust when their tungsten is too far out. (improper gas coverage like the other guys are saying) gas lens or collet body?
Reply:Originally Posted by deucedj22You guys got to remember that any chemical that you ad to the weld area is going to go up in smoke and into your lungs. I only use chem cleaners when I have no other option. Just grind were your going to weld. Is the plate your trying to weld possibly galvinized? You can not TIG that.