Keeping it straight...

admin

Today I was doing vertical 7018 overlaps on flat plate (stringer beads).I have a hard time keeping my lines straight...Usually, I have to draw the first one with soapstone, then I follow that... my first bead usually looks OK.Thing is, a couple of things happen here.I have to draw the next one straight. At the same time, I have to make sure that the bead is overlapped by 50%.Somehow, between the first bead and the eleventh, imperfections in the first bead magnify... I usually start piled up tight and end fanned out.If I follow "the crack" (the line between the end of the bead and the start of the plate) exactly, I can make sure my overlap is up to snuff. However, "the crack" is never usually straight, and so it results in bending lines over the course of time.If I attempt to follow a straight line and never waver, I may end up compromising my overlap percentage.Supposedly, the way to fix this is either with a reduction in travel speed or a slight weave. However, a reduction in travel speed will create excessive buildup, which will limit the flat surface of the overall weld. Weaving I haven't yet mastered, and either I end up creating undercut, or making the problem worse. If I do manage to straighten my line by weaving, overlapping by 50% is harder to do while keeping the height of my welds uniform- that is, if I don't have to weave yet again just to get to that 50% line (because of the larger-width bead created by said weaving).I looked at other people's welds. They were straighter, more uniform... the individual beads were also smaller in width than mine. Would a large bead or slow travel speed also magnify faults in the line?I am probably not going to be doing vertical overlaps on flat plate for a while (T-plate fillet welds are another thing) but, I know that I am not getting results because of variations in my technique.I know this is very hard to diagnose without pictures, video, or actually being there, so sorry if there's not enough information to advise anything specifically other than "practice".Keeping it down in the hood...literally!
Reply:After the first pass is down use a grinder to remove the high spots and waviness. Then you won't be so likely to accumulate all those imperfections.
Reply:Are you sure you can actually see what's going on????    Is it possible, you might need a cheater lens, or magnifying reading glasses???   More importantly, and by far the biggest mistake I see people make, do you replace the protective plastic lenses often enough?
Reply:Originally Posted by Fat BastardAfter the first pass is down use a grinder to remove the high spots and waviness. Then you won't be so likely to accumulate all those imperfections.
Reply:new welders frequently see only the arc and sparks from the electrode,with experiance and practice you can see the molten pool, metal being transferred across the arc,penetration into the base metal ,and the surronding metal too just keep at it and try not to get frustrated,youll get your pad stringers straight ,try to focus out a little a quick look ahead wont hurt your bead aperance
Reply:If you get off track, put in a partial length bead to fill up the space and then concentrate on making the next bead straight.  Once you get a straight bead, point your electrode right at the toe line of that bead for the next one, and every other after that.  Start with a wavy bead and the rest will be wavy too.  Put in the first one as straight as possible, then the rest just follow along.  Keep your work angle, drag angle and travel speed consistent.Moving too slow or setting the current too high can both cause the bead to be too wide.   Shoot for no more than 3 times the electrode diameter for the bead width.  That means 3/8" bead width with a 1/8" electrode.  Don't weave your stringers, just drag it along.  7018 doesn't need any movement for a straight stringer on flat plate.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:I'm surprised they have an issue with "cheaters". All they really are is reading glasses that let you see the weld better without having to wear separate glasses. You can just pick up a cheap set of reading glasses at the store instead if they have problems with "cheaters". An eye exam, and a talk with a good ophthalmologist about what you need to do will help if you have eye issues, or haven't had an exam in years. I just had mine done again. I need glasses and have started to have minor issues focusing on the bead well. Yep, my prescription has changed and I'm getting near the point I need bifocals, so I either need to loose my std glasses to weld or get some sort of lens to adjust for my aging eyes. Be sure and explain to the doc what you need to see. You'd be surprised at how much they can help with specialty things like this.On the beads spreading out, I'm guessing that part of the problem may be how you set up and swing, if the beads always widen at the same end. As you roll your hands as you lay the bead, you will naturally follow a certain path that you body is aligned for. if you shift your position slightly you may find that this helps you to stay on track better. Yes you can weld straight even if your position isn't perfect, but you fight the body's natural "point of aim"..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Wandering on a piece of flat plate is pretty normal, and thats the problem with welding on a piece that has nothing to follow. Usually when you weld, your welding a joint and have something very visable to follow. But if you absolutely must have something to follow, make a slight grind mark with your grinder.