bead appeance

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ive been welding for about 2 years and still cannot get that row of dimes affect on my bead, ive got a competition coming up with my school welding team, this one will be judged with one of the beads being just apperance so how do i get the ow of dimes affect? i backfill when i weld not circles.
Reply:What type of welding are you doing? 7018? Can you post a picture of your beads?DAG NABIT, I left my tape on the saw.Wild Fire Welding
Reply:Process?  Settings?I've been building a drum smoker & a dolly for it.  I use the "eeeee" motion to create a nice looking bead.  I'm also using solid wire with 75/25 in my HH175.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:6011, DC 90 amps
Reply:Try using 7018!Miller Trailblazer 302Miller 12 RC wire feederMiller HF 251D-1Miller 175 wire feed
Reply:Whats the info?   @rod size?                              Material type, thickness?                              Position?                              Joint prep? 90 amps and 1/8 rod maybe to cold and 3/32 on 90 amps maybe to hot. there are always many verables in welding. So to really get to the nuts and bolts of any welding problems it helps to get all the info, friend.
Reply:in my experiance 6011 or 6010 is not a pretty weld. 7018 will be nicer
Reply:I don,t use 6011, but isn,t 6011 a root run rod? and it,s not going to give a good apperance anyway.
Reply:6011 is what im required to use for competition, why in hell i dont know, id be tickled Sh**less if i could use 7018.  So 6011 1/8 rod, 105 amps, 2x6x3/16 flat steel one flat bead, one vertical up butt, one vertical up fillet, DC current, they allow no prep except an extra rod and plate to set your amps and current.And i have to join to peices of i think 20 inch pipe thats beveled. Now that i will use 6010 root pass and 7018 to finish, requirements.....Last edited by Kentuckyboy; 09-27-2009 at 11:16 AM.
Reply:It sounds like you know the basics.  I don't think most welders have had to make a 6011 weld shine.  I for one have never left a 6011 weld showing.  I always cap it with 7018.  So this is all I have to offerI'd say your amperage is in the ballpark.  keep a tight arc and make your puddle consistent.  Pay close attention to the size and shape of your puddle consistent consistent consistent that is where your stack of dimes comes from.   If its not looking good because it is wide and has a lot of spatter your heat is too high.  Look at that first dime is it tied in?  If not you may be welding too cold.  You can run 6011 like 7018 or you can whip it, ether way you can make 6011 look fairly good.  A photo would help a lot.Last edited by Tom Kroscavage; 09-28-2009 at 02:26 AM.DAG NABIT, I left my tape on the saw.Wild Fire Welding
Reply:Very nice joeDAG NABIT, I left my tape on the saw.Wild Fire Welding
Reply:Still looking to achieve that weld look.  I think I need to practice a bit more.Very nice Joe.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:Whip and pause ftw. I know it works magic with 6010 5p. Strike an arc and watch your weld pool start to grow then quickly come out of your weld pool about 1" (distance is not important, just as long as you keep your arc, but you want that nice weld pool you just made to cool if even for a second) towards the direction of your weld travel, Then bring your rod back where you started and lay another nice weld halfway over your last spot and just keep whipping it out and in moving along. Works really great for out of position welding also.Last edited by SR20steve; 09-30-2009 at 01:21 AM.
Reply:thats what i do, we call it backfilling down here, i usually go about a 1/2 inch and come back that may be were im going wrong may not be goin far enough to let the puddle cool enough, and joe nice weld
Reply:and in case yall are wondering we'll be brother-n-lawing the pipe that sections a 2 man process.
Reply:Anybody suggesting 7018 for a stack of dimes better not get near any of my steel.  It's a drag rodStack of dimes, do a circle, and only half the distance from the main puddle.  I can't really explain it.  Other guys probably will do better."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Oh, crap.  6010, or 6011 for the stack of dimes.  Forgot"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Keep your arc short and keep your whips in and out of the puddle small and fast. you want to keep the puddle molten and not let it shrink down so much to get the tight Stack of dimes look. come out far enough to watch the puddle shrink down ever so slightly, then bury the rod back into it and fill it out to where it needs to be. Running the rod in a small circle around the puddle instead of a straight in and out movement helps too. you end up whipping alot faster this way and it may seem weird, but it will get you the look your after if you can figure it out.
Reply:if your running 6011 which i have constantly been runing for the past month you should try doing circles. it works for me but it's all about constant travel speed and proper angle.