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In my welding classes I never run beads any longer than probly 4.5 inches long, so I never have to worry about the metal and bead getting too hot. so if I were to run longer beads on longer pieces of metal, or if i was doing a build up, how will i know when the metal is getting too hot while im welding? what do i look for?
Reply:Too hot is excessive spatter, but keep welding as hot as you can and cutting a cold as you can.DAG NABIT, I left my tape on the saw.Wild Fire Welding
Reply:You know your running to hot when:Cellulose coated electrodes like E6010 are too hot when the flux coating is turning dark brown and smoking or catching fire well back from the tip.E7018 electrodes are too hot when the stub in the electrode holder is glowing and the rod starts to droop right where the flux starts. Usually, before that happens, the metal rod will liquify back inside the flux well back from the tip. The rod'll start to spit droplets of molten metal from inside the tube of flux.Like the previous poster mentioned, you'll get excessive spatter from too high an amperage setting. You can also get poor results from high strength electrodes and/or stainless steel electrodes from running them too hot. The heat of the puddle and the arc affects the chemistry of the weld bead for filler metals with lots of alloying ingredients.Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:It's the other way around. When you are welding things that are heavier and joints that are several feet long you will not have enough heat. Later on in your course preheat, post heat and interpass temperatures will be mentioned I hope. In school when you make multiple passes on a small piece you will have to turn the heat down slightly. If you do not your your bead gets too large and you start getting undercut on horizontal fillets.
Reply:Most importantly is how your puddle is behaving, you can see it change as it gets hotter, either towards the end of a bead or near a previous one. In most joints it will tend to undercut easier and the puddle will grow to an almost unmanageable size if the material is too hot.On stainless you might either see black "grapes" appear on the backside of the weld or with TIG you will see the bead turn a dark grey color.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:when running hot there will be a ton of spatter and posibly undercut.
Reply:I think the others may have misunderstood what you asked.It is easy to over heat the metal if you are doing large welds or buildup. It's not something thats exact. Different metals will have different temps that shouldn't be exceeded between welds. Often that called out in the weld specs. Usually if a large area of the steel around the weld area is glowing after you are done with the weld, it's WAY too hot. Large areas of color changes in the metal may also be a sign. Temp sticks or an infrared thermometer will let you know just how hot the steel is getting so you can let it cool down.As far as what can happen, most of us are familiar with the warpage that comes from too much heat. That's one issue. You can remove the temper in some metals or change the grain structure in the HAZ. This can seriously weaken the material..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:And if you are doing Aluminum you will know it's too hot by the blob left on the floor..Or in your lap if not careful.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home. |
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