Joining Shipping Crates?

admin

A group of friends and I are considering starting an NPO to help provide affordable housing and someone suggested metal shipping containers. Your traditional CONEX boxes that you see on the backs of trains and trucks.http://www.shedandshelter.com/conex/newcontaineruse.jpgThey're relatively cheap, very sturdy, and can be made habitable without too much expense.My question is towards the welding end of this idea. I have done some welding but not for a while and I've forgotten a lot of the technical aspects of the trade. I was wondering what the more practiced individuals here would recommend in terms of welding for joining several containers together. The weld would have to survive either very hot or cold temperatures, high wind speeds, very wet or very dry climates, and the normal wear and tear of being part of a habited structure. The standard container dimensions are 8 feet (2,438 mm) wide by 8 feet (2,438 mm) high and a nominal 40 feet (12,192 mm) and are made of Corten steel. I dont have information on the actual thickness of the metal used in the container. The plan is to take four of these containers and place them side by side, cutting out the walls on the inside and welding them together from the inside and out.So, what would you recommend?
Reply:Where are you located?  If you complete the location in your profile, others might be able to anticipate some common problems.In a climate like AZ, you would need to insulate it quite well to avoid the heat.  In the northeast, you need the insulation to avoid freezing to death.If it were me, I would think of 6 CONEX's.  4 side by side, 2 on the back side.  Set them next to each other, torch out doorways between room.  Build the door frames with 2x4's, screw drywall directly to the walls.  You will need a roof over the CONEX's, trusses would work, then sheet & shingle it.  Entry doors the same as interior walls.Windows, torch out the hole, frame it out with 2x4's, then insert windows.  To cover the CONEX exterior, stucco would be the easiest & fastest.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:Much of this was discussed earlier this year. You might want to take a look at this thread.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...ht=stress+skin.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by MarkBall2Where are you located?  If you complete the location in your profile, others might be able to anticipate some common problems.In a climate like AZ, you would need to insulate it quite well to avoid the heat.  In the northeast, you need the insulation to avoid freezing to death.If it were me, I would think of 6 CONEX's.  4 side by side, 2 on the back side.  Set them next to each other, torch out doorways between room.  Build the door frames with 2x4's, screw drywall directly to the walls.  You will need a roof over the CONEX's, trusses would work, then sheet & shingle it.  Entry doors the same as interior walls.Windows, torch out the hole, frame it out with 2x4's, then insert windows.  To cover the CONEX exterior, stucco would be the easiest & fastest.
Reply:There's no reason a MIG or self-shielded flux core couldn't or shouldn't be used in this sort of application.
Reply:when you set these together they are not likely to meet up exactly edge toedge. id say you will need to use some splice plates to span across the edge and weld that to both boxes.  stick or mig is the way to go. corten has special requirements , i think there is a rod specifically for it, but no crazy  issues, just weld it.
Reply:If you're pouring concrete and joining several containers together anyways, it would be more cost effective to pour the whole slab at once without any buildings on it, then buy a pre-fab metal building kit and put it together on the slab and anchor to slab with thread rod studs in the concrete.www.metalbuildingsrus.comwww.metalbuildingdepot.comwww.mortonbuildings.comwww.usmetalbuildings.comwww.metalbuildingguide.comwww.gensteel.comwww.metalbuildingoutlet.comLast edited by DesertRider33; 11-05-2009 at 10:26 AM.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbeadwhen you set these together they are not likely to meet up exactly edge toedge. id say you will need to use some splice plates to span across the edge and weld that to both boxes.  stick or mig is the way to go. corten has special requirements , i think there is a rod specifically for it, but no crazy  issues, just weld it.
Reply:Originally Posted by Helo is simple and easy to put together for a group of people with little or no technical training.
Reply:Originally Posted by HeloThese containers are manufactured to very tight specifications and are made to be able to interlock and stack. As long as the depth is consistent, you wont find a difference of more than a few millimeters between two containers.