Trailer Ramp Idea..what do you guys think??

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I building a ramp for my buddy's ATV trailer.  It's a 6'x12' trailer but the deck sits pretty high, about 26".  I'm thinking of just fabbing up a 6'x4' ramp but it would be to steep for loading and unloading.  If I make it 6'x5' or 6'x6' then it would be too tall when in the upright position.  I was thinking about making a double hinged ramp (don't know if that's the right name for it).  I would make two 3'x6' ramps..hinge one to the deck then hinge the two ramps together.  That way they would open and close kinda like a scissor.  Do you guys think it would be ok or would there be too much load for the hinges that connect the two ramps.  Check out the pic...thanks in advance Attached Images
Reply:I was also thinking if it doesn't work or he doesn't like the idea then I would tell him to maybe switch the leaf springs to run under the axle.  Thanks again.
Reply:First your hinged Idea will work. They amke several models already in the after market world, almost esclusively aluminum. Some use a cable as a reatainer against over extension most just use a metal to metal 'crush' type joint. Small end plates for the mating point. Second, I guess he must be wanting to load something besides ATV's?? Otherwise steepness wouldn't be so much and issue. Start getting over about four foot on a ramp and your talking real granny ramps here.
Reply:Another idea would be to add another deck on top of the currect deck with just enough space to slide a ramp under.  This should only raise the deck 2-3 inches
Reply:I have made a few trailers and the best thing i have done for the hinges on the ramp is make your own.  The ones i make are a lot like a piano hinge.  Just take a rod and get a pipe that will fit really good over top of the rod.  Cut the pipe in about 3 ince strips and they go every other back and forth.  just make sure you have the rod in them when you weld them and take your time or you will pull the pipe with your welds and the hinge will bind up.. They have always worked good for me. They will even hold up a good sized car.  Take Care, Good Luck
Reply:Thanks for the replies.  I'll probably just stick with the 6'x4' ramp and I already have the rod and tubing to make my own hinges.  Ill try to post pics when I'm done.  Thanks again.
Reply:Is there room to for a single length ramp (no hinges) that slides underneath the deck?  That way you wouldn't have to have any hinges.  The top edge could be a pipe or bar that slides in a simple rack underneath the deck and then sets into hooks at the back end of the deck.  The bottom end could then just ride on a cross-piece below the back edge of the deck that's part of the rack for the front edge.
Reply:kjm9, that's also a possibility because there is plenty of room for one down there.  i think he would prefer the ramp that way it'll keep his cargo in the trailer.  i didn't get a chance to work on it this weekend, so when i see him at work today i'll give him some options.
Reply:Originally Posted by kjm9Is there room to for a single length ramp (no hinges) that slides underneath the deck?  That way you wouldn't have to have any hinges.  The top edge could be a pipe or bar that slides in a simple rack underneath the deck and then sets into hooks at the back end of the deck.  The bottom end could then just ride on a cross-piece below the back edge of the deck that's part of the rack for the front edge.
Reply:What are you building the ramp out of?  I had a ramp on my trailer that had the same set up as your idea.  Trailer is about the same height.  I found it  not only to be heavy, but I also pinched fingers in it every once and awhile.    Aluminum would be better.  I took the ramp off, And welded a piece of flat bar on the back with a 1/2" spacer on the ends and in the middle.  (This allows for each ramp to be adjusted for different size machines. (Lawn Tractor, ATV).  I then installed four pieces of channel under the rear of the deck.  Welded them on edge to make a track.  I Installed a spring loaded pin on each track.  The ramps are built out of angle Iron, with a piece at the end as a lip to lock into the flat bar on the trailer.  They are heavy enough to take the weight of a 6000 lb tractor, but not so heavy that one person can't move them.  They slide into the tracks and the spring loaded pin holds them in place,  I cut a hole in the side of each ramp so the pin goes through the actual ramp.  No way for it to fall out on the bumpy road.   Yes it's a little longer to set up. but a lot lighter to put away.      Now for a tail gate.... does the trailer have sides?  If not, why the tail gate.  Just use tie downs for everything.  My trailer has 16" sides.  I just slide a board into a track and hold it down with a tarp strap or 2.  If and when I need the tail gate.  PS:  I haven't gotten a blood blister in two years since I changed the ramp design.    PackratLast edited by Packrat; 05-17-2005 at 01:31 AM.Lincoln 225 AC/DC, Hobart 140 Mig. Oxy/propane Victor torch.(2) Makita 5" angle grinders  one with zip disk, 14" chop saw.  and just about every other tool you can think of. Whoever has the most toys when he die's ..... Wins!
Reply:The ramp will be built out of probably 1 1/4 square tubing, and the trailer does have sides that's why the tailgate is somewhat the better option.  The more I think about it if the trailer was mine then I would personally do the "two ramps under the deck" setup.  But, my friendd likes the tailgate idea, since he's paying $$ for it then we'll go with the tailgate.  Maybe if I get off the net and go to bed early, I'll work on it tomorrow.....maybe.
Reply:Absolutely,  If the customer wants it that way, and they're paying for it. It's the only way to go.  I had a guy show up the other day with a ramp tailgate (without the hinge system)  on his trailer,  It was 6' long and 7' wide....it took two men and a boy, to lower and raise it.....  Well not quite, the boy was actually his wife    And I think he could have done it alone, but I just couldn't bring myself to stand there and watch and not help.  It was 1 1/4" tubing, with expanded metal on top.  It worked OK, but was very high when in the closed position.  Have fun with the project.  Hey if someone else is paying for it..... you could design a mechanical lever to flip it open and lower it, then raise and close it.  No finger pinching.  hmmm.... maybe I should give that some thought myself......  Packrat.Lincoln 225 AC/DC, Hobart 140 Mig. Oxy/propane Victor torch.(2) Makita 5" angle grinders  one with zip disk, 14" chop saw.  and just about every other tool you can think of. Whoever has the most toys when he die's ..... Wins!
Reply:If a tailgate is required maybe you could put a flap at the end of the ramp that would fold up across the back when the ramp is loaded and lie flat on the ground when the ramp is deployed.  Or a seperate tailgate al together.But if the customer wants folding ramps, is willing to pay for it, and you can do it go for it.p.s.  Spider, your idea did trigger mine, but it is different.  My suggestion, like packrat's, was for the ramp under the existing deck, not above it.  No need then for a second deck  Take care.
Reply:The idea of a double hinge will work fine. I have done that on a trailer that I built about 20 years ago. I used 1 inch pipe for the frame and covered it with light sheet metal that I had laying around. I made the hinges out of strap iron and used 3/8 bolts for the hinge point. This was a 6 x 10 trailer. I am now retired and have sold the trailer. This was plenty strong to load a 18 HP riding mower.Welder- Miller Thunderbolt AC 225-DC 150 Plasma cutter, Miller Spectrum 300O/P torch- Victor 100