miller Bluestar 2E

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Well, I am in a weird spot here.  I just bought an older miller bluestar 2E.  So, I got the unit home, cleaned all the old mouse nest out of it, got the engine running good, and away we go.......Kinda.  So I got it running, went to strike an arc, and nothing.  So I pulled the sheet metal off again and blew it out with electrical cleaner, found that I need to replace the small capacitor on the bottom of the unit, rusted a little and assume it needs replaced.  Anyway, I switched it from weld to ac power and the engine pulled down a little, so in the fiddling around I happened to knock the stinger into the ground clamp and got a little spark.  So I fiddled around a little more and found that I can strike an arc while the switch is in power position, but get nothing when I switch it to the weld position.So that leads me to believe that the generator part is working, some, as it shows low voltage on the ac outlets.  I really hate to just start replacing parts just to see if one of them cures it, so I am drawing on the good people here at weldingweb for any suggestions.  I know the easiest way to fix it would be to take it in and have some one like Airgas or a similar place take care of it, however thanks to the way things have developed in my world, I am a little cheap to afford taking it to someone like that until it is my last resort.I appreciate any help I can get here, and I hope someone can point me in the right direction to get this working again!
Reply:I have one of these welders, I bought it new in 1980.  I had a simular problem with the arc not starting in the weld position.  Take the cover off, then look at the weld switch and power switch  and trace them down.  They go to a PC board behind the front of the welder.  The arc booster is in this PC board.  That was the problem on mine.  You can repair this board.  Check it out and let me know if  it is the problem.
Reply:Would start with cleaning the slip rings and check the brushes that they have been running "true" on the rings.There should be a fuse in series with power/weld switch to a rectifier, behind front panel from memory, depending on which model it is. Check the power/weld switch as well.Are you handy with a meter?Got a serial number?
Reply:ok, so new problem, kinda.  I cleaned a bunch of connections, looked for the arc booster that was referred earlier, cleaned the brushes and lined them back up.  I haven't figured out what has happened, but now I have 120 volts at the outlets unless I wind the motor up and then it runs all the way up to about 180 volts the faster the engine runs.  Yet I still have no weld output on the weld side of the switch.
Reply:hey yardbird, "They go to a PC board behind the front of the welder. The arc booster is in this PC board. That was the problem on mine. You can repair this board. Check it out and let me know if it is the problem."can you describe the arc booster you just told me about here?Thanks!
Reply:hey billy, I never could find a fuse on here. any other thoughts? I checked the diodes and they are good, have good connections so far. so I am at a loss!!!thanks!
Reply:As Billy asked, do you have the unit SN so you can get the manual here http://www.millerwelds.com/service/ownersmanuals.php that has the wiring diagram and we can all be on the same page for troubleshooting?I've seen a bad WELD/POWER switch be at fault in the past but as you point out, rather than just start replacing parts, a proper systematic troubleshooting is in order.You don't mention if you're checking receptical voltage at the duplex outlets or the single POWER WHILE WELDING receptical.  Engine speed for the duplex outlets while in POWER mode needs to be 1800rpm whereas the single outlet requires 3000rpm in WELD mode as does welding.  The fine current control also needs to be set to 100% in POWER mode for proper 115vac output at the duplex receptical and is adjusted accordingly to provide the desired weld fine current control in WELD mode.The PC board yardbird referred to is the idler control board and causes the unit to increase to the 3000rpm weld speed when an arc is struck while in WELD mode and the AUTO IDLE switch is in the OFF position.  If the engine speed does not increase with the AUTO IDLE switch in the OFF position the throttle solenoid may be defective.If you don't have it, you need to download the correct manual to refer to for all of the above.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!