Vertical up help.

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Ok so im working on my vertical up butt welds for the school welding team and cant get them to look right, im running 6011 ac, 90 amps and using 2"x6" 3/16" plate. I would like some suggestions on what technique to use or how some of you would do it.
Reply:Try a J-whip, alternating sides as you go up.  6011 can also be run down and still get adequate penetration in a v-groove joint.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:What is the diameter of the electrode? Can you cahnge to DCEP ( reverse polarity)? Is the plate thickness specified? I agree with the J whip technique suggested by DesertRider33.
Reply:The pieces you are practicing are relatively small and the heat will build up on the joint quickly.  If you are noticing that problem you might set up 2 or even 3 practices pieces at once then move between each as you use up an electrode.  If the heat buildup is giving you trouble that is one trick that helps.  If you are forced to do one joint then you will likely have to turn down the amperage halfway through on your fill passes.  With any vertical up multipass the first passes make the foundation for following passes.  If you have a lumpy irregular root pass then your hot pass will reflect those problems and they multipy as you go.  Attempt to arrange your passes so that you are below the surface by 1/16 inch on both edges of the joint.  This will act as a guide for your cap pass.  If you have that margin much more than 1/16 then your cap will be too high.
Reply:An inverted T motion works well too.
Reply:Well look at it like this,The little woman likes you to spend more time on her toes than on her legs so when your doing vertical up do the 1..2..run across at a rise to the other toe 1..2.. repeat.  Your basically making a ladder by building the sides ( toes ) and then going across ( rungs ) and repeating the process.  When your in the toe you do the 1..2.. as your going up enough to cross back over filling the gap/toe of the lower rung.  I know that the book may tell you to drag but so far it's been my experience in the lab that dragging the rod or wire up on smaw and mig doesn't work and causes lumping.  Biggest thing you have to remember with the ladder method is to not be slow when making the rung pass because the time you spend in the toes will basically fill in the majority of the gap and your passing over will finish it off.  You can also drop your amps down to 85 and see how well it goes to, vertical up is a pain because the heat rises up the plates so make sure to have your drag angle set right.
Reply:If you are not locked into that amperage range, sonsider dropping it some. I use as stright forward progression with a slight side  to side weave (< 1/32" on each side) or if I am running hotter a straight whip technique. Get the puddle formed to  the size you need, move the electrode forward lengthening  the arc, watch the puddle freeze, return to the puddle slightly ahead of where you were.For 3/16" material, only a 3/16" to 1/4" fillet weld would be needed. Modified patters can be used to increase weld size. Gerald AustinIuka, MSwww.weldingdata.com
Reply:DC+ (reverse) polarity is so much nicer than AC for welding out of position.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:For me rod angle means a lot. Aiming the rod ( down) into the puddle creates more heat in the puddle opening the key hole up. Aiming away from the puddle (up)  closes the key hole up.