Hardest welding rod available?

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i have a stone cutting machine with "hardened steel teeth."  these must be some super hard machine teeth bc they go through some serious abuse.  i want to be able to weld material onto the teeth when rounded so i can reshape the point.  i know this wont be as strong as the original machined teeth, but if it could get me another few weeks a year, i would save a ton of money.  so, what is the strongest, hardest welding steel available?thanks!
Reply:I believe its 8018 but there are others here more knowledgeable than I am.
Reply:Here is a list of welding rods and their uses that I found a while back to source for an article.  It's pretty good!http://www.weldershop.info/282/types...ng-electrodes/Have a Jeep Cherokee?  Click Here!
Reply:there is 10018---11018--- an 12018and im sure  there is moreidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:Tensile strength (which is higher in 8018, and even higher in 12018) is not a measure of hardness, and hardness, is NOT a measure of wear resistance against abrasion.We'll need to know more about your application and problem, to give you a good answer.Is this metal-to-metal wear?  Is it metal-to-rock wear?Understand that very hard steels are also brittle, and have little more resistance to abrasive wear than mild steel.  Probably a bad choice when rocks enter the equation.
Reply:If your blades are just tool steel, and not tungsten carbide, I would check out Postalloy.   http://www.postle.com/Call them, describe exactly what you want to do, what you are doing with it, they may be able to help you.
Reply:What kind of rock? You may need carbide or diamond.
Reply:Most guys wait too long before they think about hard facing and so on. Usually if you see serious wear it's too late to try and hard face eccomomically. You need to catch the wear when it's still only minor, then rebuild the surface, not wait till its half way or more gone and then try and remake the whole thing.As said there are a lot of different hard facing rods for different jobs. Stoody makes hardfacing rods as does MG..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:i realize about not letting it wear all the way until the teeth are not usable.  when it's rounded down to less that a 1/4" is when i want to add more material.  esentially slow down the wear.  there is a lower and top jaw. the teeth float to "mold" itself around a stone, then they are locked for the cutting.  i've attached a pic.  dont mind the grease, the seals have since been replaced.  there are too far gone to weld to, but the future ones would not.  teeth to rock.carbide will not work with our stone as it is irregular and one of the hardest stones available. Attached Images
Reply:Would these possibly be diamond imbedded teeth?  If so, far harder than anything I've ever done before.  Kennametal points?   Or the equivalent?   I
Reply:I have used stoody and think they would be the best place to start.  call them.  they will be able to tell what rod and what wps you need.
Reply:was reading on esab site and most will depend on the base metalif im reading right and what kind of abrasive surface you are dealing with  a  "wear-arc ' class of rodsidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:sorry i cant help much  can you contact the  maker of the bit you use to find out what they useidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:I have used many hard surface rods over the years, and have found Sure Alloy makes a great hard surface rod that is TOUGH for heavy industry. Give them a call,  http://www.surealloy.com/SAS_Global_...ince_1953.html6"XX P5P8 6G
Reply:I'm taking a WAG that your machine literally splits the stone. Am I right? If so the bits probably aren't carbide. I'm guessing(I stress guessing!!!!) you might be able to build them up w/ a recommended hard rod and grind them back to the original profile. Be prepared to buy grinder discs or stones by the case. I'm not sure if this would work or just use some 12018 rod.Depending on the price of new bits I don't know if this would be cost effective or if it will even work. As I said, just a wild a$$ed guess.                                  MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:I second stoody rod
Reply:Having second thoughts about hard surfacing those teeth. Are those teeth just plain carbon steel? Do they come new with hard surface on them?If those teeth are just carbon steel, and come new with no hard face surface, I would recommend building them up with 11018.If those teeth come new with hard surface on them, I would not put a brittle hard-face on them and use something like the mining industry uses. "Sure Alloy" Hope this helps6"XX P5P8 6G
Reply:x2 what rlitman has said.  Higher tensile strength rods are not necessarily harder or more wear resistant.  Using E10018 or E12018 electrodes is not the answer.You need an electrode that deposits a hard surface.  These are usually electrodes that contain extremely hard carbides that are deposited along with the metal.  It's the carbides imbedded in the steel that provide wear resistance.You need to discover exactly what those cutters are made of, and then call Hobart, Lincoln, Stoody, Postalloy, or one of the other suppliers of specialty hardfacing filler metals.  Based on the application and the alloy the old teeth are made of, the manufacturer can recommend the correct hardfacing and/or buildup electrodes and welding procedures to get the results you want.Guessing or using a high strength filler metal electrode will only give you frustration and dissapointing performance.If those teeth aren't steel, but are a W/Co alloy or some other exotic material, welding on them like low carbon steel could ruin them completely.  Find out what your working with and then ask the experts how best to restore them.   Originally Posted by rlitmanTensile strength (which is higher in 8018, and even higher in 12018) is not a measure of hardness, and hardness, is NOT a measure of wear resistance against abrasion.We'll need to know more about your application and problem, to give you a good answer.Is this metal-to-metal wear?  Is it metal-to-rock wear?Understand that very hard steels are also brittle, and have little more resistance to abrasive wear than mild steel.  Probably a bad choice when rocks enter the equation.
Reply:Be warned if you intend to grind the build-up to shape, some hard face deposits seem to just laugh at a disc grinder.
Reply:Originally Posted by denrepBe warned if you intend to grind the build-up to shape, some hard face deposits seem to just laugh at a disc grinder.
Reply:As said, Step 1 is to find out what the original teeth are made of.Once you know that, -then- you can investigate rebuilding the teeth.  Or not, if they are already a carbide.The 'hardest' seems to be about 67 Rc or 9.9 Moh's, per Stoody.  http://www.thermadyne.com/IM_Uploads...102A_Final.pdfNote that hard and brittle sort of go hand-in-hand.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:I know it has already been said but you need to know what the base metal is. I work on lots of rock crushers and not all parts are just mild steel. You need to know what your welding before anyone can really say what to weld it with.
Reply:Chromium carbide based weld deposits will work, however you need to select a brand that does not cross check. Another option would be any electrode that deposits a weld of around 40 HRC, there are plenty of option here.In situ repairs may be difficult, as you will need to preheat the teeth to approximately 250°C during welding, followed by slow cool in vermiculite etc.1 other option for you may be inconel 625, this will work harden up to approximately 40 HRC under impact based loads. (Note that the consumable is not primarly for wear applications) You wont need to preheat so much to use this filler either, 100°C is enough. This may work however I would try a couple of teeth first to judge performance if using this option.Good luck with it.