Making gates

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I have made some pretty nice things in the past. As far as gates I've made single gates for fences and some really big sliding gates (8'x24') out of 2" sq tube. What I haven't done or seen anyone do is double gates.Nothing occurs in my world until there is a need. Mother of invention... So now I've gone and sold a job to build a 16' double swing gate or 2 8' gates.King metal has a design concepts catalog that pre-arranges a lot of their ornate gate components along with fancy top rails and such. So I gave it to a customer and he has picked out his gate design.Okay....I was reading another members post and his gate sections where out of plane. With a curved top rail, I need to prevent this not fix it after it's out of wack.So the way I got it figured, I need to make a table big enough to clamp all four corners of the gate frame and clamp the tubing in between the corners at various spots.Am I being overly paranoid about this and can get away with a table only big enough to clamp two corners (top and bottom) then move the work piece to complete the frame. I thinking ahead because I can't afford this to be a killer project.
Reply:Am I being overly paranoid about this and can get away with a table only big enough to clamp two corners (top and bottom) then move the work piece to complete the frame.
Reply:TomYou cannot use too many clamps, but you can use too few. If you only clamp the corners, then it will bow in he middle. Though It will still warp with many, using many clamps will greatly minimize warpage.  Some people tack their weldment to a table. I hate cleaning tacks, so I use lots of clamps. Don't be afraid to use 2x4 inch tubing across the bottom and 2"sq along the sides for the frame.  Heavy, though it will much reduce the chance on any warping, especially,  if you are only welding 16g pickets into it.  Also, when tacking together, with the gate laying down I tack on the front  or back of the picket, not on the side facing you.  I have found that repeated shot of heat on facing side causes bowing upwards.  Whereas, tacking on the side on causing movement against the pickets and jig which is not noticeble unless jig is not tight or not warped.    It is tempting to use light gauge stuff throughout for pricing and convenience, however heavier gauge and larger cross section will save much straighten frustrations.Last edited by tapwelder; 03-26-2006 at 09:09 PM.
Reply:Oh boy Here is a pic of a similar gate. So you'd make a table big enough to completely clamp down all four rails?Even then still expect to have to correct it?
Reply:Nice gate tom.  Ive built a few myself.  Its easy to screw it all up.Oh wellHtey look good if done right IF it Catches...Let it Burn
Reply:hey tex whats happening my brother from another mother!no no I didn't build that gate. I want to build that gate. And I want it to be straight...on both ends....
Reply:Yeah, some correction would need to be done, though minimum.  That gate is pretty light.  Any bending or twisting would be easily corrected to get it back into one plane.  The only corrections I am considering are out of plane, e.g. bowing and twisting.  Squareness should be taken care of on the shop table or in the air as you setup and build.That is a nice, clean, simple looking gate.  Looks like you have a good model.  Check out the way it has three post per side for support. I don't think you will have any problems making necessary corrections.
Reply:I'm a sign builder with 2- 4' x 10' tables, when I build a large sign, I can put my 2 tables together or build out temporary legs & extensions out from my table, tacked underneath, where I can break them off when done.  U have any tables?
Reply:man I got on ugly table made out of 2x2 sq tube. I mangle it up to suite my needs. It's seen better days. I'll have to make another for gates. This guy I built the balcony for wants 400' x 6' steel fence for the front. I'll need one for that too.Thats a good idea especially for your signs.
Reply:Originally Posted by TPnTXman I got on ugly table made out of 2x2 sq tube. I mangle it up to suite my needs. It's seen better days. I'll have to make another for gates. This guy I built the balcony for wants 400' x 6' steel fence for the front. I'll need one for that too.Thats a good idea especially for your signs.
Reply:sorry I don't have time. Im busy making some spotted paint.
Reply:using 2 " you wont have alot of warpage. I build these gates all the time and to keep the warp down i tack one side then flip and wld the other siderthen flip and weld the tacked side also when you weld your pickets on if you will stagger your welds it will help alot. In other words weld every third picket on one run then go to the bottom and weld every third then back to the top every 2nd and so on it works for me
Reply:If you are building a matched set of frames or gates one way to minimized distortion is to clamp the frames back to back.  In the case of a gate frame with pickets I would clamp together with 2 inch square tubing pieces between.  I would then tack weld straps across to reduce the need for all the clamps.  If you clamp the frames directly together for welding you have difficulty reaching in to weld completely around the pickets. Of course don't weld one side or area too much before moving to an opposite area.  Once you get over 4 by 8 tables become difficult unless you bring in one inch plate 8 by 20 which we have had on the floor on occasion.