The Proper Way To End A Weld..

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Hey guys.. did some more fooling around today..decided to run 3 beads and demonstrate what a proper tie-off isa tie-off is what we call the end of the weld..heres the 3 beads..Attachment 4656heres what happend when you just stop at the end dont do the tie-off correctly..there is a hole left that must be dealt with..Attachment 4657heres the tie off done correctly..you stop..dip..stop..dip without moving the torch..build up a small hill..Attachment 4658heres how you tie-off on the base metal..sorta the same procedure as the previous tie off but you do the "small circle motion" with the torch as you go from the bead to the base metal..Attachment 4660next post will have the settings and etc. of what i did..learn something!!  ...zap!Last edited by zapster; 12-27-2007 at 05:22 PM.I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:ok heres a pic of the tungestion in the torch upon completion of the demonstration..notice how small the "ball" still is..Attachment 46613/32 red end ground to a fine point..gas..38% argon 62% helium..amps..120 A/C..hi frequency intensity setting..10hi frequency switch..continiouspost purge 5 sec..material 6061 T651 aluminum 1/4" thick..now mind you this tecnique is the way to end any weld..aluminum..cold rolled..stainless..whatever... and after that i did a little stitch weld just for laffs...Attachment 4662hope you picked up some pointers here.. ...zap!Last edited by zapster; 12-27-2007 at 05:22 PM.I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterok heres a pic of the tungestion in the torch upon completion of the demonstration..notice how small the "ball" still is..Attachment 46613/32 red end ground to a fine point..gas..38% argon 62% helium..amps..120 A/C..hi frequency intensity setting..10hi frequency switch..continiouspost purge 5 sec..material 6061 T651 aluminum 1/4" thick..now mind you this tecnique is the way to end any weld..aluminum..cold rolled..stainless..whatever... and after that i did a little stitch weld just for laffs...Attachment 4662hope you picked up some pointers here.. ...zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by 99blackzr2should a robotic welder leave the hole from the wire at the end of the weld?is it set up wrong?
Reply:Some machines have a cratering feature to prevent the dimple and a sure leak if welding up something that holds fuel or water.  My machine doesn't have that feature so I just use my foot pedal and come off the heat gradually for the same result.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterok heres a pic of the tungestion in the torch upon completion of the demonstration..notice how small the "ball" still is..Attachment 46613/32 red end ground to a fine point..gas..38% argon 62% helium..amps..120 A/C..hi frequency intensity setting..10hi frequency switch..continiouspost purge 5 sec..material 6061 T651 aluminum 1/4" thick..now mind you this tecnique is the way to end any weld..aluminum..cold rolled..stainless..whatever... and after that i did a little stitch weld just for laffs...Attachment 4662hope you picked up some pointers here.. ...zap!
Reply:nothing personal Zap, but those look a little on the cold side to me, and the bead spacing is quite large. You say you are welding 1/4" aluminum with a 3/32" tungsten at 120 amps? I think you should crank that baby up to a minimum of 200 - 250  amps and use a 1/8" tungsten (at least that is where I would be set at), I know the large amount of helium gives you a hotter arc, but 120 amps seems pretty low to me. what size filler were you using?
Reply:I got a question. Looking at that torch pic, are you using a collet body with a water cooled torch? If so, why?Weldtek
Reply:Originally Posted by WeldtekI got a question. Looking at that torch pic, are you using a collet body with a water cooled torch? If so, why?
Reply:Originally Posted by eldertheweldernothing personal Zap, but those look a little on the cold side to me, and the bead spacing is quite large. You say you are welding 1/4" aluminum with a 3/32" tungsten at 120 amps? I think you should crank that baby up to a minimum of 200 - 250  amps and use a 1/8" tungsten (at least that is where I would be set at), I know the large amount of helium gives you a hotter arc, but 120 amps seems pretty low to me. what size filler were you using?
Reply:Originally Posted by WeldtekI got a question. Looking at that torch pic, are you using a collet body with a water cooled torch? If so, why?
Reply:Originally Posted by elvergonHey zap do the pic of this post was made by the "walking the cup method"? It seems that you did, but it also seems that you don´t ....SOOO whats the truth?
Reply:How would you end a weld with a stick electrode? I haven't seen any pics of stick welding that look like stacked dimes...and I can't accomplish that for sure. Does anyone have any examples of stick welding beads and tie offs? Are they supposed to look like the dimes? Mine look like snakes...big fat ugly ones covered in slag.Lincoln AC-225
Reply:Originally Posted by keveyHow would you end a weld with a stick electrode? I haven't seen any pics of stick welding that look like stacked dimes...and I can't accomplish that for sure. Does anyone have any examples of stick welding beads and tie offs? Are they supposed to look like the dimes? Mine look like snakes...big fat ugly ones covered in slag.
Reply:Originally Posted by riley mcmillanThat is the type of torch I've used for almost 40 years.  I heard one fellow singing the praises of a gas lens, tried that, couldn't tell any difference.  Got a good weld either way.
Reply:That makes sense.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterok heres a pic of the tungestion in the torch upon completion of the demonstration..notice how small the "ball" still is..Attachment 4661hope you picked up some pointers here.. ...zap!
Reply:The taper could be just about any length, depending on the application and personal preferences of the welder.  The degree of taper will affect the arc characteristics.  The rule of thumb is that the end of the tungsten should stick out no further than half the diameter of the cup.  So, a #8 cup (8/16" or a half-inch) should have no more than 1/4" of tungsten sticking out and preferably less.-Heath
Reply:Can there be a small crater so long as there is not a HOLE in the crater?And by visual means you can see that the crater is smooth and filled in?
Reply:Originally Posted by Lanmanb4Can there be a small crater so long as there is not a HOLE in the crater?And by visual means you can see that the crater is smooth and filled in?
Reply:craters leak
Reply:Here is a fillet weld sample and a "pad of beads"1/8" 7018   125a   rod touching plat flat position Attached ImagesWeldtek