Forklift mast too tall

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So straight to the point.  Anybody ever shorten one?I have been wanting a forklift for moving stuff in and out of the garage.  Maybe even unloading freight/material.  I finally found one that I think is a good buy.  It's 3000lb capacity, small in size, 4 cylinder lp, and priced right (I think) at $500.  It runs well and looks clean with 971 hrs on the ticker.One major problem though, it's a couple inches too tall to fit into my garage.  The cage is fine, but the mast is too tall.I forgot to take my camera with me, but it appears to be made out of a heavy channel, not a casting.  I looked at the top, and I looked at the bottom, hell I even considered cutting out of the middle so I wouldn't have to mess with mounts, stops, or guides.  It's an older forklift and if I had to venture a guess, I would say 70's or 80's.  I could not locate an identification tag so all I am going off of is "White" on the sides and cage and "30" on the sides.  From what little I could find on White forklifts, the "30" seems to be a reference to the capacity.  Can anybody help me find info on this forklift?Has anybody shortened a mast?  Any other idea's?  Does this sound like a decent buy?I figure worst case scenario,  I could mount the mast to a three point attachment, sell it, and then sell the rest for scrap.  I could probably come out ahead doing that.  I hate to scrap a good piece of equipment though.My name's not Jim....
Reply:Probably be easier to raise your garage door.    What size wheels are on it?  if its pneumatic tires you might be able to step down a tire size and see if that helps.  Most likely when fully retracted the rams are very near to bottoming out.  so removing some mast height might get you no where.Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.
Reply:Hello Boostinjdm, you might be better off trying to find a different mast assembly and adapting it to fit the lift. Depending on where you are located there are "forklift" wrecking yards the same as auto wrecking yards. They might even consider a direct trade depending on what you have and what you want that they have. I do believe the price is certainly right considering that this is apparently a working and useable lift, the hours are relatively low as well. At the least, include some pics for the folks to look at to see if you could shorten it without getting into a major rebuild. Another consideration would be that this machine would be some good trading stock to somebody else who might be looking to trade up to what you have and provide you with a smaller lift that would work in your case without doing any modification. A bit for you to consider. Best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:Raising the door is not an option, I would have to do 1 17' wide door, 1 6' wide door, and two 8' wide doors.  Just the extra panels would excede the cost of the forklift.  Not to mention there isn't any extra room above the doors to raise them. So ya, not an option.  Tires are already low profile hard rubber and ground clearance is only about 2" now.  So smaller tires are out.  The cylinder will not be a problem.  The mast is raised by a single cylinder that is about half as tall as the mast and it pushes up on chains.  So I should just be able to shorten the chains the same amount as the mast.  The cylinder will just never fully extend again, which is fine because the mast has hard stops anyway.The best option seems to me to take it off the bottom or the middle of the mast.  The top has adjustable guides machined into it.    If I take it out of the bottom or middle, some carefull cutting and good welding is all that I should need.  I just don't want to dive in and not be able to follow through for some stupid reason.My name's not Jim....
Reply:Did you check the height with the mast tilted all the way back?, might give you the couple of inches you need to get it in the door.I'll second the vote on raising the garage door instead of messing with the mast.I am what I am, Deal with it!If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!
Reply:you were posting at the same time I was, scratch the vote for raising the door.I am what I am, Deal with it!If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!
Reply:Originally Posted by dabar39you were posting at the same time I was, scratch the vote for raising the door.
Reply:I measured the mast at 81 1/2" inches minimum.  My 17' door is 79 3/4", 6' door is 78", and the other two are in the 78" range also if I remember right.  I'm thinking that 4"-6" out of the mast to be safe would be good.  That would bring it down to the same as the cage.My name's not Jim....
Reply:I bought a New Holland with Front loaded. Then got some pallet forks. It runs under garage door. Straight in, Straight out, can't turn around. 4 wheel drive, got other uses for it.Vern
Reply:maybe you can cut the concrete in one spot specifically to move your lift in and out and pour a new section of concrete a few inches lower, just a thought
Reply:You might try shooting a PM to Joethemechanic here. I believe he regularly repairs lifts and so on. He can probably point you in the right direction. Push comes to shove, let me know and I'll see if I can't dig up his number. His shops supposed to be not that far from the house and I may be able to find his number in the phone book..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by dabar39Did you check the height with the mast tilted all the way back?, might give you the couple of inches you need to get it in the door.I'll second the vote on raising the garage door instead of messing with the mast.
Reply:Originally Posted by eyeball engineermaybe you can cut the concrete in one spot specifically to move your lift in and out and pour a new section of concrete a few inches lower, just a thought
Reply:Just a thought, Boost. How about a HF pallet jack. Forklift sets whatever in the shop door and pallet jack takes it from there.                                    MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Shortening the chain will make the carriage go higher.  Also prevent the carriage from dropping all the way to the ground.   I've done these before, you have to operate, measure, draw, and think about it before using the torch.   The type of mast you are talking about, you generally have to shorten the cylinder also.
Reply:Originally Posted by jsfabShortening the chain will make the carriage go higher.  Also prevent the carriage from dropping all the way to the ground.   I've done these before, you have to operate, measure, draw, and think about it before using the torch.   The type of mast you are talking about, you generally have to shorten the cylinder also.
Reply:Originally Posted by jsfabShortening the chain will make the carriage go higher.  Also prevent the carriage from dropping all the way to the ground.   I've done these before, you have to operate, measure, draw, and think about it before using the torch.   The type of mast you are talking about, you generally have to shorten the cylinder also.
Reply:I believe this unit was a two or three stage mast.  the carriage would raise to the top of the mast before the next stage would start.  I did not raise it up more than just getting the forks off the ground.  But the carriage did appear to be free from the mast.  I believe there was three layers to the mast, however many stages that makes...  I remember the cylinder having chain rollers on it and one end was anchored close to those rollers.  I also remember one way or another, the chain ran to the top of the mast and then was anchored at the bottom.  I am trying to work out the routing in my head, but I just can't get it.  I really only need to lift to about 48".  I would like to be able to unload a semi when I order some equipment in the future.  Single stage would be more than enough, but that isn't what this one is.I have done mast and carriage repair at my old job, but never really paid attention  to the chains and cylinders.  It was always pretty straight forward.  Some dumb *** would get rough with the equipment and I would have to straighten, then gouge out and weld cracks.  Or in some cases reassemble the parts after they ripped it to pieces.My name's not Jim....
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmYou're gonna have to explain that to me.  Shorter mast says to me shorter chain.  Otherwise there will be slop.I didn't see any reason to shorten the cylinder, it is only about half to two thirds the height of the mast.  I'm really starting to regret not taking my camera.  May have to try and get up early and go get some pics tommarrow.
Reply:Originally Posted by waginThe two idler sprockets determines the low and high of forks. To achieve a lesser travel, at least the top sprocket has to be relocated. Otherwise this statement is correct.
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmYou're gonna have to explain that to me.  Shorter mast says to me shorter chain.  Otherwise there will be slop.I didn't see any reason to shorten the cylinder, it is only about half to two thirds the height of the mast.  I'm really starting to regret not taking my camera.  May have to try and get up early and go get some pics tommarrow.
Reply:Originally Posted by denrepWagin, I have to disagree. Because the idlers are mounted on the cylinder rod.The idlers can't practically be lowered without shortening the cylinder, because that would place them in the cylinder's barrel area. Regardless, lowering the idlers will not change carriage travel distance.Carriage travel distance is a product of the cylinder rod travel x 2. Because the cylinder pulls chain in double its rod travel length. Regardless of where the idlers are located, the cylinder raises the carriage twice the distance of cylinder rod travel.Good Luck
Reply:I just had an idea....I distinctly remember a chain towards the top of the mast.  What if the chain was attached at the top of the stationary mast, went down to idlers at the bottom of one of the stages, then went up and over the cylinder idlers and was anchored to the cylinder body.  Then for every inch of cylinder travel, the forks would raise four inches.  With an estimated cylinder length of 48", that would give me 16' of lift.  That would account for the carriage and the three layers of mast (one stationary, and two moving).  I think the place did have shelves that high.Or maybe it was anchored to the carriage, up and over idlers, down and under idlers, then over cylinder idlers, and anchored to the cylinder body?  I think that makes more sense.  Hell, I don't know...Last edited by Boostinjdm; 01-30-2010 at 01:50 AM.My name's not Jim....
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmI follow ya Denrep, but why would I want to shorten the cylinder?  I'm going to estimate that the cylinder was 48" tall closed.  So that gives me 96" of lift.  If I take 6" of mast out then I only have 90" of lift before hitting the hard stops. . . .  . . .Maybe I'll just have to cut the mast first and then figure out the chain and cylinder afterwards.  Neither will be hard to shorten.
Reply:I don't plan on taking 6" out of one part...  I plan on taking 6" out of all of them.There is an area between the top of the cylinder and the bottom of the top idlers that has zero stops, guides, or other complications.  So it would be cleanest to remove material from there.  The only thing left to deal with would be chain and possibly cylinder length.I'll have to disagree with you about the cake walk.  I have shortened (successfully) many cylinders and have yet to have a problem.  You just have to know how to attack them.I have been looking for pics on the net to help illustrate what I am talking about, but have yet to find a good one.My name's not Jim....[QUOTE=Boostinjdm;356257I have been looking for pics on the net to help illustrate what I am talking about, but have yet to find a good one.[/QUOTE]Boost - Try searching Google Patents.Charlie
Reply:Originally Posted by 59halfstepBoost - Try searching Google Patents.
Reply:Google, Images,"forklift mast" think you will find what you're after.Trailblazer 302Hobart Stickmate AC/DCLincoln SP 135 TSmith torchSpoolmatic 30A
Reply:Originally Posted by shortarcGoogle, Images,"forklift mast" think you will find what you're after.
Reply:Ok, having seen examples of your welding skills, I wouldn't hesitate to use anything you've welded.That said, I would suggest you not cut the middle of the mast, not cut the cylinder.  The pressures involved increase exponentially with the movement of raising/lowering the load.If there is an option to remove a portion at the top/bottom, even if making the job more complicated, that would be the best option.  Not taking material from the center of the mast.Best option is finding a replacement mast that is shorter & can be adapted to the mounts on the forklift.  It would also be the fastest turn around.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:Maybe something like this: http://www.chuckhenry.com/misc%20equ...mast%20lrg.jpgIt's for sale here:  http://www.chuckhenry.com/loaders_&_forklifts.htm for $400.00I found these using a google image search for "forklift mast"Last edited by MarkBall2; 01-30-2010 at 03:46 PM.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:I have seen it done.   It takes a LOT of thinking before firing up the saw or torch.What kind of mast is it?2 stage, no free lift?Tripple stage full free lift?Does the cylinder go to the top of the mast?  Does it have 2 lift cylinders on each side?What brand of forklift?  Model?  How old?Pics please.Forklift mechanic.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:regardless of the mast problems if you dont snap this machine up for $500 you would be a damn fool.  even if you cant get it in your gararage which im sure you will find a way if you do get it,  what it will do for you out in the yard will be invaluable.  once you have a forklift you would gladly spend 3-4 k if need be to replace one.  they are just that handy and a major back saver.  there isnt a day I go out to the shop that I dont start and use mine.here is some pictures of mine.  it was given to me cause it would not run and had no brakes.  that was all fixed with minimal expense and a little effort.Im installing my 8 inch 1/4" wall stove pipe with it here.  it is only 1500 lbs rated but that 1400 more lbs than i like to lift.just buy it you wont regret it.
Reply:BUY IT.  Most running forklifts can sell for A LOT more.David Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by MarkBall2Maybe something like this: http://www.chuckhenry.com/misc%20equ...mast%20lrg.jpgIt's for sale here:  http://www.chuckhenry.com/loaders_&_forklifts.htm for $400.00I found these using a google image search for "forklift mast"
Reply:David R. ,It is very similar to this one, only older.... I could not find an identification plate.  I spent about an hour looking it over with no luck.  Just the lettering on the side to go off of. Attached ImagesMy name's not Jim....
Reply:are the tires solid like the one in the pic?  if they are that kinda suks for outside use unless you got alot of concrete to run on.
Reply:Originally Posted by stockcar92are the tires solid like the one in the pic?  if they are that kinda sucks for outside use unless you got alot of concrete to run on.
Reply:I have considered a redneck off road fork lift, but that's more of a project than I want to undertake right now.  My wallet is still recovering from the dump trailer project.  And my GF insists that I finish the house this year so I can move.My name's not Jim....
Reply:Does it not clear the garage door when it's raised, or does it not clear the header over the garage door opening?Been years since I looked at one, but usually the door stores above the lower part of the header when fully raised.Removing some outside trim at one spot on the header might gain enough clearance.  You can fill the gap with some sort of rubber strip.  Or you could just remove some material in a small section of the header....enough to get the lift inside.  Scab the header with steel plate at the weak point.This is probably all a moot pointYou'll probably get stuck in the driveway"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Hey I did my apprenticeship on forklift trucks and I have done thousands of mast cuts. They are not difficult but quite involved and you need the right tools. take the tynes off first. then you need to pull the mast off the truck and separate it on the floor. drop the mast right down to drain the oil then undo the hydraulics and make sure you cap all ends. then there are 2 shoes that bolt around the diff housing just next to the front wheels and attach to the mast. these need to be removed first, the bolts can be hard to get to as they are underneath the truck (you have to feel for them), then support the whole mast with a crane or another fork, and take the tilt cylinders off at the mast. lower the mast to the floor and take the lift cylinders, chains and hydraulic hoses off. remove everything. then slide the stages out and over the rollers with a crowbar. then jemmy all the rollers off the stubs remembering to check for circlips. (mark everything as you remove it, including which roller bearings go where). now you can pull the 3 stages completely apart. then you can cut it from either the top or bottom, depending on how many braces you have to move. also keep in mind you will have to relocate the roller bearing stubs. measure these exactly as there is not much tolerance and don't forget to check if the stubs are angled. weld a piece of scrap across the mast as it will move when you cut off the braces.if the cylinders have to be shortened you will need C spanners, a pipe vice, and maybe a lathe to replicate the end of the rod. cut the welded end cap of the cylinder from the bottom, pull it out and cut the barrel after scribing a line down the cylinder and the cap so you know where to put it back. shove a rag in past the cut line so you don't get swarf in the barrel. cut the top of the rod because there is a rubber seal and oil valve at the bottom. don't shorten the chains until you have done the cut and rewelded the chain anchors and braces; its real easy to stuff up your chain length. you will also have to shorten your hydraulic hoses so a good swager and proper fittings willl be needed.measure and mark everything, no matter how insignificant you think it may be. it used to take me about 10 hours to do the cut and get the mast back on. good luck
Reply:'Morning Stamp,Wow, thousands of cuts! You're the mast man. So does he shorten the lift cylinder and rod the same amount as the channels, or half?Ever see a cylinder with a hollow rod? Or a second stage that extends from the bottom?Good LuckLast edited by denrep; 01-31-2010 at 07:21 AM.
Reply:Have you tried leaning the mast forward all the way? Some forklifts shrink several inches when this is done.....just thinkin6"XX P5P8 6G
Reply:Originally Posted by denrep'Morning Stamp,Wow, thousands of cuts! You're the mast man. So does he shorten the lift cylinder and rod the same amount as the channels, or half?Ever see a cylinder with a hollow rod? Or a second stage that extends from the bottom?Good Luck
Reply:man its hard to belive there was that great of a need to shorten masts that you did one a week lol.anyhow great reply and some really good info.  thanks for stepping up with the information.
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmI have considered a redneck off road fork lift, but that's more of a project than I want to undertake right now.  My wallet is still recovering from the dump trailer project.  And my GF insists that I finish the house this year so I can move.
Reply:Originally Posted by slagmaticThis seems like a lot of work to go through for a situation you'll only be in for another year? Do you absolutely need to be able to drive it through all the doors in your garage? Just raising one door seems like the most logical solution, but only you know all the factors involved.
Reply:Originally Posted by stamp. . .and yeah i have seen hollow rods. . .. . .I'm not sure what you mean by a 2nd stage that extends from the bottom?
Reply:Originally Posted by denrepWagin, I have to disagree. Because the idlers are mounted on the cylinder rod.The idlers can't practically be lowered without shortening the cylinder, because that would place them in the cylinder's barrel area. Regardless, lowering the idlers will not change carriage travel distance.Carriage travel distance is a product of the cylinder rod travel x 2. Because the cylinder pulls chain in double its rod travel length. Regardless of where the idlers are located, the cylinder raises the carriage twice the distance of cylinder rod travel.Good Luck
Reply:oh yeah, I forgot to mention that the shoes which bolt the mast to the truck itself will have brass or vesconite spacers that go between the diff housing and the mast. before you put the mast back on the truck you need to tape them in place or they will move around and make it impossible to bolt back on.