Cylinder cart plans?

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My welding text book suggests that I don't buy a cylinder cart but rather build one as my first project, so I've decided to do it. I would prefer to use aluminum but steel will do as well. Are there any suggestions as to finding some simple plans I can follow or should I draw my own plans? What have some of you guys done for gas cylinder carts. I will be using MIG to build it and I own an abrasive chop saw. Is this the tool I use for cutting aluminum? If so do I keep the blade seperate from cutting steel.  Thanks snoboy
Reply:Do NOT use an abrasive saw to cut aluminum, unless the blade is marked for the purpose.  Aluminum will load up a steel-cutting blade and cause it to explode.I have heard that masonry blades are acceptable for aluminum, but don't quote ME.  Perhaps others will verify this.Are we assuming this is for oxy-acetylene tanks?
Reply:Well, I'm no pro and haven't done a lot of it.  But I've used the masonry grinding wheels in my 4" angle grinder after reading other folks posts that had done so successfully.  This was to avoid contaminating the weld materials and I never used those wheels on anything but aluminum.  Having an old 7" circular saw (before 7 1/4 became the norm) I mounted a 7" metal abrasive wheel in it and have cut aluminum and steel in it.  Fortunately it didn't burst and I later purchased a metal cutting circular saw.  Its much better, faster, and more powerful.  Its also heavier and less convenient since you can't see the actual cut point.  So for a short cut where I need to see I've been getting away with the abrasive wheel.  Have to go slow and let it cool frequently as that saw was not intended for that load.  Its why I bought the saw that is!
Reply:I can't say if the awful odor from cutting aluminum with an abrasive wheel is toxic, but why take the risk.     I cut aluminum with a 40 to 60 tooth 10" carbide tipped blade on my chop saw (the same saw I use for woodworking).    I also use a table saw where necessary.    Use a sharp blade and cut very slow.   If I need a really smooth cut, I'll use a Accu-lube.   Rather than just spray it onto the part or the blade, I soak a small chip brush and "paint" the spinning blade before each cut.   Make sure you wear adequate eye & face protection and do NOT wear gloves.   It's a good idea, especially when cutting aluminum with a table saw, to keep your body out of line with the blade and part being cut.There are no small projects
Reply:I sure would think there is an aluminum blade available for a chop saw. I work for Boeing and we trim aluminum all day long here. We use 90deg. die grinders using 3" thin cutoff wheels at super high speed. The wheels last a long time and I've never seen one come apart in 18 yrs. No fumes, no sparks only aluminum grit on the floor to sweep up. Maybe I'm missing something here. How is it that the wheel explodes from aluminum?  Yes, the cart is for oxy/acetylene tanksAny body with plan ideas?snoboy
Reply:Originally Posted by snoboyMaybe I'm missing something here. How is it that the wheel explodes from aluminum?
Reply:If you have no other tools at your disposal, yes you can use a hot saw.Use masonary blades, spray heaps of WD40 or Inox on the blade prior to and during cutting.It will load up a bit .Dont push the saw if blade is coated but clean cut off disc with a flap disc
Reply:I"m pretty sure I have the aluminum cutting blade I ordered a Freud LU89M014 Non Ferrous Metal cutting blade. It's 14", 100 tooth, 1"arbor rated for 5000 rpm for use on chop, table, or radial arm saws (per the Freud rep.)  I was still interested in cylinder cart design ideas, if anyone has one. Thankssnoboy
Reply:the oxy cart is prity basic, just take a look at the HF one and fallow, they are also all over e-bay. not much to design there. i made a quicky one for mine that would atach to the back of my all terain welding cart so its a little diferent as it has smaller wheels and they are off the back so they do not tuch when its sitting on the ground.not shore if it will help but here is a pic1st one is it on the big cart with the rest of my stuff and 2nd pic is it standing alone.FWIW: i cut my aluminum with a sawsall mostly and clean up the angle if needed with a flap disk, but i think a band saw would be the best cut option for aluminum i just dont have one. Attached Images summer is here, plant a tree for mother earth. if you dont have time or space, sponcer some one else to plant one for you.feel free to shoot me a PM or e-mail me at [email][email protected] i got lots of time.
Reply:This was my first (and last) cart/table. I made a place on it for cylinders if I ever get my O/A set up back from the person who borrowed it. I searched for plans and found out the best plans are your own. Get out a pencile and paper and decide on what you want the cart to do. I built my cart to hold my MIG and all my power tools related to welding. This table is about 52" long 20" wide and 34" tall. I have 2 steps to get it in and out of the shed so I put handles on both ends to help lift it up the steps. The handles also help to store the hoses and wires. Use pnuematic tires if it's going over rough terrain. And of course always install a beverage holder. If you want more pics let me know.Last edited by Team-Bratpack; 09-09-2006 at 12:17 PM.
Reply:There was a post awhile back. It pictured a cart with a hose reel attached to the front. It was really cool.Also, about cutting aluminum, dont use wd 40, use wax or lemon pledge(it has wax in it).Wd 40 is bad for welding We use regular wood cutting blades, some metal blades, metal cutting blade on the chop saw and cut off wheels for metal. Never had any trouble, and we cut all day everyday. (Aluminum boat building)Harbor Freight sells a torch cart for 29-59 dollars depending on which one. Its okay, not great. If you have plenty of stuff to weld and don't need another project, I would just buy one. Have fun.Bill
Reply:Originally Posted by WHughesAlso, about cutting aluminum, dont use wd 40, use wax or lemon pledge(it has wax in it).Wd 40 is bad for welding Bill
Reply:Ive never had problems because I have been told over and over to not do it. Maybe its an old wives tale, but I haven't tried so I can't say what specifically is wrong about it. I think the fluid you are describing is for blade cooling, isn't it? Wax just helps the blade and cut. Its no fun to weld either, but can be done. As for the 3% oily stuff, I get some tubing from a bending outfit and they use someting like that for steel, and also for my aluminum. It really doesn't weld, smokes, leaves a thick sticky residue and is generally a pain is the a$$.Maybe I will try wd 40 for kicks and see what happens. Not on a boat of course, but at home on some parts.Bill
Reply:i used WD-40, just hit it with acitone befor welding to clean it up. how do you get the wax off, or do you just let it burn off as you go?? summer is here, plant a tree for mother earth. if you dont have time or space, sponcer some one else to plant one for you.feel free to shoot me a PM or e-mail me at [email][email protected] i got lots of time.
Reply:I take the wax off with acetone, but it will also burn off with the heat while you heliarc. I recommend trying to get as much off as possible before welding.Bill
Reply:>>>I think the fluid you are describing is for blade cooling, isn't it? I didnt describe it well did I?Yes it cools but also that little bit of  additive does stop the carbide blade loading up.We also use the mist spray when drilling.Its similar to the soluble oil that we use in the cold saws and big band saws only blue not white and is apparently designed for ally. Bouught a 20 litre drum yonks ago and the label has come off , at 20:1 it lasts forever.Often thought that at 20:1 we could use staight water for that matter with little difference in effect.As I said on site the boys use wax, but they are not welding on site and the material has been powdercoated .Powdercoating does seem to act as a coolant and non binding agent.
Reply:but it will also burn off with the heat while you heliarc.do you mean while i TIG weld, heliarc is a welder not a process.  i dont know why we cant get passed the term being used for TIG welding aluminum but if we all try real hard maybee we can. summer is here, plant a tree for mother earth. if you dont have time or space, sponcer some one else to plant one for you.feel free to shoot me a PM or e-mail me at [email][email protected] i got lots of time.
Reply:"do you mean while i TIG weld, heliarc is a welder not a process. i dont know why we cant get passed the term being used for TIG welding aluminum but if we all try real hard maybee we can."Yeah, it was late and I was tired. ForgivenessBill
Reply:Harbor Freight sells a torch cart for 29-59 dollars depending on which one. Its okay, not great. If you have plenty of stuff to weld and don't need another project, I would just buy one.  You're right I probably (I'm sure I can't) won't be able to make one for less than that. Thanks
Reply:HF's cart is not that bad, when the $59 one is on sale for $30 its even better. i thought about getting one and maybe modifying it to suit me better. i'm doing a compleat cart remake this month (well depending on how many covers i sell) i have been using the same cart for over 5 years and in thet time i have added plasma and TIG, so its time to make a beter system. summer is here, plant a tree for mother earth. if you dont have time or space, sponcer some one else to plant one for you.feel free to shoot me a PM or e-mail me at [email][email protected] i got lots of time.
Reply:I'm about finished with the OA cart I built. The dimensions are as follows. 48"H, 30"W (outside of wheels) with a 22"x 12" floor for the tanks. I made mine out of 1x1x1/8" tube and used some Northern Tools 20" semi-pneumatic wheels. A great first project, that is fairly easy and inexpensive to complete. Took about seven hours to complete, but I haven't painted it yet. I'll probably use undercoating or some textured trunk paint for something different. I've got about $90 wrapped up in it, but it's much sturdier that the ones HF sells... HTH