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Running a Hobart Handler 135 on setting "3" with wire feed around 10. Using .030 flux core, obviously. From the spatter, I'm in desperate need of running gas...This is 1/8 plate, tubing is .120 DOM and the bung is 3/4" cold rolled, with 1/8" face on the welded end...Thanks in advance...Hobart 135"You should've shot yourself in the foot when it was in your mouth."- Aesop Rock
Reply:Have you tested it for leaks yet? You need to read the manuel because for 1/8" material recommended settins are #3 for volts an 30 for wfs since your not up to speed your over heating the wire causing all those dingalberries.
Reply:Too much spatter. The heat may be ok, you need more wire speed.
Reply:Originally Posted by Jay OHave you tested it for leaks yet? You need to read the manuel because for 1/8" material recommended settins are #3 for volts an 30 for wfs since your not up to speed your over heating the wire causing all those dingalberries.
Reply:Read the book carefully if you look they list the wire size in a certain order and then the settings on the following page. You might want to make a copy of those two pages and then tape them side by side.
Reply:Remember that they are the recommended settings, a starting point.Try looking at the welding calculator.http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/calculators/
Reply:Originally Posted by transitRemember that they are the recommended settings, a starting point.Try looking at the welding calculator.http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/calculators/
Reply:Last time I saw spatter that bad my polarity was wrong.The Lord has declared, "This is my work and my glory--to bring to pass the immortality and eternal life of man" Moses 1:39Link: My name is John, and I am a member of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints.-- ColdCreekWorks.com --
Reply:It does look as though you are getting a less than smooth feed. Transit is very likely correct; can I ask a few questions to try and help? Does your wire feed smooth, or is it bouncy and/ or jerky? Do ypu get a lot of burnback, where the wire stickout melts away almost until you have to stop and start again, or change how close the tip gets to the workpiece?Does the wire want to 'stick' instead of feeding the puddle cleanly?Are you getting a lot of popping?Okay; answers... If you are getting a lot of popping, I would go with the reversed polarity issue. (Not likely if the welder was set up for fluxcore by the factory. Maybe though...If the wire wants to stick a lot, the heat needs to come up. Usually, the #3 is good for .030 FCAW. The color on bottom tells me you are getting hot enough, but not equally around your bung fitting/ tube. Cold and slow will cause the 'sticky' condition a lot of the time.Now, the burnback is a sure sign of too slow, and so is the bouncy tip. Also, these can be a sign of a not steady hand, and/ or a bad angle as you work around the part you are welding.Advice: You need to concentrate on getting an arc going clean and steady. You need to keep the tip a constant distance from the metal; say 1/8". Keep it even, and the arc will run much better. FEED the wire into the weld; use a drag technique. Don't be shy about getting a good puddle running, and carrying it through. Don't push your FCAW weld if you can avoid it; you will likely create porosity, and a very uneven weld.You need to see, feel, and hear a steady burn when welding FCAW. My thought is to turn the speed up to 3.5, and try keeping a steady distance from the material. 2nd idea is to add heat and speed; take it to 4, and 4. Some welders just work better fast, some slower.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloIt does look as though you are getting a less than smooth feed. Transit is very likely correct; can I ask a few questions to try and help? Does your wire feed smooth, or is it bouncy and/ or jerky? Do ypu get a lot of burnback, where the wire stickout melts away almost until you have to stop and start again, or change how close the tip gets to the workpiece?Does the wire want to 'stick' instead of feeding the puddle cleanly?Are you getting a lot of popping?Okay; answers... If you are getting a lot of popping, I would go with the reversed polarity issue. (Not likely if the welder was set up for fluxcore by the factory. Maybe though...If the wire wants to stick a lot, the heat needs to come up. Usually, the #3 is good for .030 FCAW. The color on bottom tells me you are getting hot enough, but not equally around your bung fitting/ tube. Cold and slow will cause the 'sticky' condition a lot of the time.Now, the burnback is a sure sign of too slow, and so is the bouncy tip. Also, these can be a sign of a not steady hand, and/ or a bad angle as you work around the part you are welding.Advice: You need to concentrate on getting an arc going clean and steady. You need to keep the tip a constant distance from the metal; say 1/8". Keep it even, and the arc will run much better. FEED the wire into the weld; use a drag technique. Don't be shy about getting a good puddle running, and carrying it through. Don't push your FCAW weld if you can avoid it; you will likely create porosity, and a very uneven weld.You need to see, feel, and hear a steady burn when welding FCAW. My thought is to turn the speed up to 3.5, and try keeping a steady distance from the material. 2nd idea is to add heat and speed; take it to 4, and 4. Some welders just work better fast, some slower.
Reply:If there's slag, then drag. Fluxcore is a slag producing process, thus you should DRAG the puddle. ie, you point the torch back into the puddle and pull/drag it away from the puddle as you travel. If you are right handed, then that usually means hold the torch in your right hand (duh! ), point the torch slightly back towards the left, and then you make the weld from left to right as you go. See the HH135 manual, section 8-4. The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:I'd suggest learning to weld before trying to weld a bung.Get some scrap and get comfortable laying down a consistent bead. Dial in your v/wfs before you try to "get fancy".Once you can lay down a consistent bead, try sticking two pieces of metal together. Practice your butt, lap, and filet welds. Then move on to the bung.Learn to walk before you sign up for the marathon.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Last time I had spatter like that, I was using solid wire without gas. I would double check the label on the spool to make sure you have flux core also. I've made that mistake in the past also.More than likely, you need to change the polarity of the gun. Flux core needs to run DC Electrode Negative.........page 13 in your manual. Pages 20 & 21 of the manual shows you the weld setting recommendation chart that should be inside the wire feed door.Set it up that way with flux core & it should run better with less spatter, although you will still get some spatter with flux core.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:Forgot to put in 3-10 setting is for .035 wire, use 3-30 setting for .030 flux core wire.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:Since you put "new welder" in your post, that also refers to you. I would start with the basic straight beads doing, lap joints, t welds and corner welds starting in the flat position and then move on to horizontal then vertical. Trying to weld on round shapes is actually more difficult then it seems since you need to be in control of several things at once and being new you probably don't have that skill yet. Running gas may help but if you can find someone who knows how to weld come and give you a hands on lesson or two that would help you speed up your learning curve. The problem with new welders is that even though they can see the weld being made they don't understand what they are looking at and when things go wrong then try to fix there problems themselves adding more problems. I'm not saying or referring any of this to you directly I'm just letting you know we were all there once and there comes a time when we see "the light" and then we are really able to weld.
Reply:Originally Posted by Jay OSince you put "new welder" in your post, that also refers to you. I would start with the basic straight beads doing, lap joints, t welds and corner welds starting in the flat position and then move on to horizontal then vertical. Trying to weld on round shapes is actually more difficult then it seems since you need to be in control of several things at once and being new you probably don't have that skill yet. Running gas may help but if you can find someone who knows how to weld come and give you a hands on lesson or two that would help you speed up your learning curve. The problem with new welders is that even though they can see the weld being made they don't understand what they are looking at and when things go wrong then try to fix there problems themselves adding more problems. I'm not saying or referring any of this to you directly I'm just letting you know we were all there once and there comes a time when we see "the light" and then we are really able to weld.
Reply:I like gas...1/2" 1018 Cold Rolled slotted around 3/16" plateUsing .030 solid and C25Hobart 135"You should've shot yourself in the foot when it was in your mouth."- Aesop Rock
Reply:Yeah Baby!!!! Looks like you have the heat about right too.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:Made this bracket last night to hold the license plate and tail light for my bike...Had to butt-weld two pieces together since I couldn't find some 1/8" plate wide enough...Hobart 135"You should've shot yourself in the foot when it was in your mouth."- Aesop Rock
Reply:Night and day Kirk! Now burn up that entire spool of wire, then go back to your original wire and I'll bet it will look 10 times better. One thing I'm learning is that NOTHING beats hood time.Just another clown trying to be cool
Reply:Yeap, looks much better except for the spot ya missed.Left hand bead at the start, ya missed a spot.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:35:17