Some bumper additions

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I added some hoops to a buds front bumper on his Jeep. The two hoops are made of 1.5" .120" wall DOM tubing:When doing a weld such as these, how are you guys able to do a complete circle in one continuous pass. I find that I way to stop and re-position at least twice, and the welds look bad because of that. They are plenty strong enough, but I would like to appearance to be a little better.Thanks,MikeBuilding a Jeep from the ground up as a graduation present for my kid. Build thread can be read at http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259306Mike
Reply:I can't see any image_________________Chris
Reply:Without seeing the image I can tell you on something as you described I would have a single pass but in two steps using MIG, 12 o clock to 6 o clock on the right and the same on the left_________________Chris
Reply:Should be able to see the image if you refresh, otherwise try:http://www.pbase.com/cmhollis/image/74246738MikeBuilding a Jeep from the ground up as a graduation present for my kid. Build thread can be read at http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259306Mike
Reply:i have it now_________________Chris
Reply:just grind back the stop point a little bit so you can wash back onto it and restart looking like you never stoped. best chance of making a compleat circle would be to realy strech your reach at the beginning or the weld and weld tword comfort. most people start off in a comfortable position and weld till they are streching to reach the weld point.. this can lead to the ends looking like poo as you are fateaged by the time you get to the hard to reach point, i like to start at the hard to reach point wile my hold is fresh and work tword the easy stuff so as my hold gets fateaged i'm moving into a nice smooth finish.doing a practis run without power can realy help also, it will let you find the hard to get to points and alow you to ajust your travel rought to acomodate the hard to reach point early on in the weld.running around that 1.5" tube should be doable in one run with mig just give it a few practis runs to find the best way to atack it. and start hard work to easy.hope that helps. i got that advice a long time ago and its realy helped the apearance of my welds.great looking bumper by the way, nice work summer is here, plant a tree for mother earth. if you dont have time or space, sponcer some one else to plant one for you.feel free to shoot me a PM or e-mail me at [email][email protected] i got lots of time.
Reply:First, nice "knock off" of a Tellico bumper!Second, why is the winch tray "tweaked" to the pass side?ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:Originally Posted by fun4now.just grind back the stop point a little bit so you can wash back onto it and restart looking like you never stoped. best chance of making a compleat circle would be to realy strech your reach at the beginning or the weld and weld tword comfort. most people start off in a comfortable position and weld till they are streching to reach the weld point.. this can lead to the ends looking like poo as you are fateaged by the time you get to the hard to reach point, i like to start at the hard to reach point wile my hold is fresh and work tword the easy stuff so as my hold gets fateaged i'm moving into a nice smooth finish.doing a practis run without power can realy help also, it will let you find the hard to get to points and alow you to ajust your travel rought to acomodate the hard to reach point early on in the weld.running around that 1.5" tube should be doable in one run with mig just give it a few practis runs to find the best way to atack it. and start hard work to easy.hope that helps. i got that advice a long time ago and its realy helped the apearance of my welds.great looking bumper by the way, nice work
Reply:Dirty,Thanks for the compliment. The bumper is made by Road Armor, and he wanted a couple of hoops to protect his winch if he turtled.When he originally mounted his fairlead, he didn't realize there was two sets of mounting holes, and ended up putting it on ****-eyed. He decided to leave it like that to see how many people would comment, but after putting the hoops over it, he realized that it needed to be fixed.Thanks for the look,MikeBuilding a Jeep from the ground up as a graduation present for my kid. Build thread can be read at http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259306Mike
Reply:Mike-I looked through most of the pics of your jeep build...nice work.  Don't mean to veer of track or high-jack your thread, but did you make that pipe bender ?  Could you post of send me more pictures of it.  Where did you get the dies? Do you have drawings or plans for it? I don't have a bender and I could really use one.....but of course I can't afford to purchase a new piece of equipment.  I'll end up building one, but I want to first research all possibilities of designs.Thanks-Graham
Reply:i have been wanting a bender also, the die's are the expensive part. it's nuts what they want for a simple die for a bender. i been considering getting a small lathe to make my own.yea i know a lath is expensive too but by the time you make several sizes of die's your starting to get into a small lath's price range and you still have the lath + the bender that way. now all i gotta do is wine the lottery so i can get started on it right. summer is here, plant a tree for mother earth. if you dont have time or space, sponcer some one else to plant one for you.feel free to shoot me a PM or e-mail me at [email][email protected] i got lots of time.
Reply:graham - bender plans can be seen here:http://www.gottrikes.com/John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Thanks Mike-I checked the site out....I like the fact that the machine is a stand up model...How do like the machine ? Does it function well ? I see you work a lot with thick wall DOM, how does it do with that ? Would you recommend this machine to to a friend ? Also, approx. what are the dimensions of the overall unit ?  Sorry for being a nag....As I stated earlier I'm in need of a bender and this one has got me curious.  :thumbup: Thanks- Graham
Reply:I don't have one but would like to build one. In reading, his customers are very happy. It looks to be about as big as a 16" BICYCLE. I say we buy the plans and build it !John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Graham/Micro/Fun4now,I have to say that I love this bender. The plans are only $18, very reasonable. They are a great set of engineering drawings that are very complete. There is an entire thread dedicated to this bender over on Pirate4x4:http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=376183The designer states that his bender will work on up to .120" wall DOM, but several people on Pirate have bent .250" DOM with no problem. The air-over-hydro cylinder I am using isn't all that fast, probably takes, 45-60 seconds or so to reach the limit of travel. For me this equates to about a 70 degree bend before I have to reset everything and re-pin the die. I also like the fact the bend goes vertically. This means that when trying to make a second bend in the same plane, you are not fighting gravity. All that needs to be done is to put a bubble level on the upright portion and make sure that it is perfectly plumb, then make the next bend. The dies get expensive, but they can be had for a little less at www.xtremecrawlers.com They are still around $150 - $200 each depending on the size. I spent about $200 for all of the steel to build this (had to buy all new and it isn't cheap here in CT). I paid one of the machinists at work about $60 for the machining in the form of Dunkin Donuts coffee, bagels, etc for everyone in the machine shop, and of course $240 for the one die that I have. I would definitely recommend this bender to a friend, enemy, relative, etc. It is a great design and simple for a single person to use.The bender is about 34" long, 20" wide, and 31" tall. When a die is mounted, the thing weighs in excess of 200#, very solid. It is a pain to move around the shop, and I need to add some heavy duty leveling casters to make it easier on the back.I hope I have answered everyone's questions and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend this to anyone. If you can do the machining yourself, and aren't paying through the nose for steel like I am, you can probably build this and buy a die for less than $400. I know that is a lot to some people, but buying the PT105 (which are the model dies that this bender uses) is $250 or so, you still need to buy/build a stand, it has to be bolted to the floor, and another $200 or so for the die. Sorry for being so long winded.MikeBuilding a Jeep from the ground up as a graduation present for my kid. Build thread can be read at http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259306Mike
Reply:Thanks for clearly answering a bunch of questions. It certainly looks like a great unit and I will eventually build one.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:If you can do the machining yourself,what is needed to be done here ?? if you buy the die's what is in need of machining?? summer is here, plant a tree for mother earth. if you dont have time or space, sponcer some one else to plant one for you.feel free to shoot me a PM or e-mail me at [email][email protected] i got lots of time.
Reply:Originally Posted by fun4now.If you can do the machining yourself,what is needed to be done here ?? if you buy the die's what is in need of machining??