How would you weld this? (paper-thin Aluminum roll)

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I need to weld this stuff to make a cylinder. http://hardware.hardwarestore.com/27...y--656220.aspxWhat's the best way? It's really thin, and I'm scared of burning through it. I was thinking maybe one of those MAPP-Oxygen torches they sell at home improvement stores for $50. I've read lots of both positive and terrible reviews on this...You know, these things: I can't imagine even something as small and cheap as this would have much trouble on aluminum this thinWith an oxy-acetylene aluminum rod. I have some Oxy-A welding rods from Forney. They look like plain aluminum, but say they don't need any flux. What's the deal with them? These ones: http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com...21.html?ref=42They say they are for Oxy-Acetylene welding, but I'm wondering if it's more like a brazing rod...So, any help would be appreciated.
Reply:Kester Aluminum Solder and a propane torch.  Or, a plasma needle TIG welder.
Reply:This is going on a motorcycle exhaust. Will the solder handle the heat?
Reply:Going on the exhaust as what?  Decorative cover?  Heat shield?  I'd probably just overlap the seam and spot weld it or rivet it.
Reply:Originally Posted by SupeGoing on the exhaust as what?  Decorative cover?  Heat shield?  I'd probably just overlap the seam and spot weld it or rivet it.
Reply:Where the heck are you going to use aluminum flashing on a motorcycle exhaust? Are you trying to make a new canister or something? I have a feeling thats going to be WAY too thin and your just going to end up cracking from any fastener you try attaching it with. I have made and welded them, but out of material .040" thick. Do not try using that Forney, alumiweld, durafix or whatever its called zinc based material, its not a direction you want to head down. I take it you have no welding equipment or experience? If im right take this to someone who does, and have them do it for you, out of the right material, and learn what you can from them.P.S. brazing in some ways its tougher then welding, and it can only be used on LAP type joints where you have surface area. No corners, butts, or anything like that.Last edited by makoman1860; 03-09-2009 at 05:03 PM.
Reply:It will never work for an exhaust.
Reply:How thin is this?
Reply:Originally Posted by PassengerHow thin is this?
Reply:If you're determined to use this, for whatever reason, just take it to a sheetmetal shop, ask them to run it thru a bead roller, put opposing crimps on each side, and just hook them together, slip it over a piece of pipe, tap the crimps together.  There's a term for the joint I'm thinking of, don't remember right off-hand.  Done right, it'll be stronger than anything else.  While you're at the sheetmetal shop, describe what you want to use it for, very probably they'll have something more suitable for you, probably not for a whole lotta money.
Reply:Originally Posted by mark8310If you're determined to use this, for whatever reason, just take it to a sheetmetal shop, ask them to run it thru a bead roller, put opposing crimps on each side, and just hook them together, slip it over a piece of pipe, tap the crimps together.  There's a term for the joint I'm thinking of, don't remember right off-hand.  Done right, it'll be stronger than anything else.  While you're at the sheetmetal shop, describe what you want to use it for, very probably they'll have something more suitable for you, probably not for a whole lotta money.
Reply:Yull never get it tight enough with a lock seam.  Try this. Attached ImagesA butterfly without wings, is just an ugly bug
Reply:Originally Posted by SkippiiThis is going on a motorcycle exhaust. Will the solder handle the heat?
Reply:No way you'll get by with material that thin.  Not only will it not hold up, but how are you planning on connecting it to the exhaust tubing?  It wouldn't even hold up under its own weight, especially if you've got any perforated tube/packing material in it.
Reply:I appreciate all the comments. Certainly, it's true that this propably isn't the right material for this application. I'm just not sure exactly why it wouldn't hold up--it really doesn't have to support anything. The diagram shown above is certainly a very good design--I like that!I was actually planning on just rolling it over twice, so that it's twice as thick as normal. I wouldn't need to weld any kind of mounting bracket onto the muffler, as it would have something like this going around it to hold it onto the frame...I don't know what it's called, but you can see the band in this picture: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3001/...eb55721c_o.jpg
Reply:I don't know how much weight you need to shed, but for the difference in weight,I'd get a big ol piece of galvanized stove pipe and use a joint as pictured above and move on to more important things.A butterfly without wings, is just an ugly bug
Reply:Go for it Skippie you da man.Bit of flashing and you be racingYou do have an understanding of the affects a poorly designed exhaust system will have on your motor??? Loss of power burning valves loss or rpm's...... oh well why pay for an engineer when you have flashing and duct tape. Good luck and please post pictures.
Reply:Originally Posted by Fat BastardGo for it Skippie you da man.Bit of flashing and you be racingYou do have an understanding of the affects a poorly designed exhaust system will have on your motor??? Loss of power burning valves loss or rpm's...... oh well why pay for an engineer when you have flashing and duct tape. Good luck and please post pictures.
Reply:Originally Posted by makoman1860Do not try using that Forney, alumiweld, durafix or whatever its called zinc based material, its not a direction you want to head down.
Reply:Originally Posted by SkippiiI appreciate all the comments. Certainly, it's true that this propably isn't the right material for this application. I'm just not sure exactly why it wouldn't hold up--it really doesn't have to support anything. The diagram shown above is certainly a very good design--I like that!I was actually planning on just rolling it over twice, so that it's twice as thick as normal. I wouldn't need to weld any kind of mounting bracket onto the muffler, as it would have something like this going around it to hold it onto the frame...I don't know what it's called, but you can see the band in this picture: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3001/...eb55721c_o.jpg