Silver Soldering...

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Anyone here silver solder?I have a job coming up that needs it..I have not seen the prints yet so I'm not sure what I need to do...But the job is all Copper...Thoughts?Thanks!...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterAnyone here silver solder?I have a job coming up that needs it..I have not seen the prints yet so I'm not sure what I need to do...But the job is all Copper...Thoughts?Thanks...zap!
Reply:'silver solder' can be anywhere from "solder" to "braze".  Depending on the specs and the filler.Heat with torch, apply appropriate flux at appropriate time, apply filler.  Rinse/remove flux if needed.  Pretty much done.  Some brazing fillers on copper are self-fluxing, usually used in the HVAC industry.Of course the devil -is- in the details.  What's the question?    The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:TEK, No, the flux does NOT 'act like a vacuum and pull the solder into the joint'.The flux cleans the joint of oxides to get to chemically clean metal, and the close fit of the joint allows the filler to wick into the joint via capillary action.  Hmmm, I think in my description I left out the 'clean things well' step.  Make sure you have some acetone and appropriate abrasives to clean things.  Like TIG, clean makes things work beter.  Different filler and base metals may require diffferent joint spacings to allow things to flow properly.  Too much gap and it don't work right, and too little gap it also don't work right.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:I have used it on firearms and also radiators.  clean like you would for tig, lightly scuff the area to be brazed and use flux where you want the silver.  heat evenly and watch the silver suck in.  It is the same with bronze brazing.  prep, heat, flux, heat to right temp, and apply filler.
Reply:It's been 10 years since I did it last..The stuff I used before came in a small plastic tub and was the solder and flux in a paste form..If you left the top open it would dry out and all you needed to add was water and stir to "Get It Back"I can't remember the name and have done a search on it and still came up empty..I called my LWS and may have to take a ride there come Tuesday and see what is available.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I might add, that I took a look at youtube and there are several good videos there on silver soldering and brazing.http://www.youtube.com/user/AndrewBe.../9/J95soMXxhNcthis guy has several good videos.Last edited by Scott Young; 04-16-2010 at 04:09 PM.
Reply:have done a bit of silver solder on copper for HVAC workmake sure copper is completely clean, then remove oxidation by sanding. silver solder will naturally penetrate into tight joints. flux before assembling. heat parts to be joined up to full temperature before adding solder. properly done silver solder will fully penetrate into joint right after applying solder.52, 59 & 66 Lincoln SA200, Tombstone Idealarc 250, Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 50, Marquette 250 amp mig, Miller 330 A/BP
Reply:Here is s "Strange" question..Has anyone ever used DC straight tig for heat for the parts?I'll use a Oxy Accet torch but anyone try it?I might play around with it and see what a mess I can make.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:'As often stated, more details might be useful', but assuming this is a fluid handling system or something similar and color isn't important as it might be in artwork, the copper-phosphorus alloys which are self-fluxing and extensively used in refrigeration work might be a good choice. One common brand is Sil-Fos and the company site is below; many of the standard welding suppliers make similar alloys. BTW, many of these melt at reasonably low temperatures compared to, say, 'standard' 45% Silver solder.http://www.silfos.com/As for the TIG being used for heating, it will melt the surface of the work, at best; would this be a problem?You're not building Alfred an [easily escapable] Houdini cage for someone he plans to drop off the bridge, are you? .Last edited by Oldiron2; 04-16-2010 at 04:17 PM.
Reply:I suspect the heat from the arc will be far too focused and temps will be far too hot i.e. you'll just end up cooking everthing. Pretty much all been said but there's some more tips and info >here<. If using cadmium bearing silver solder then bear in mind cadmium is very toxicGood ventilation, don't eat the flux, don't heat the filler and watch out for overheating the joint
Reply:DC tig can be done, it has some drawbacks. Heat is too focused as mentioned, the flux doesnt get along with the arc, easy to overheat the flux, etc.
Reply:What about on AC?like balling tungston on a copper block..?The block gets super hot fast..I think I will experiment with this next week.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:You really dont need to get it super hot, just hot enough for the filler to wet out.  Any more than that isnt going to make it better, if anything it could make it worse.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:twould seem with the foot pedal backed off and the torch in motion you could heat it up without getting a puddle..
Reply:I think tig will work- if you only use it for heat. I heated some 1/2" hr plate, stopped arc and quickly applied some 60/40 solder. Overall did not heat plate near as much as other methods. I needed to tin a small area.Some "silver solder" is 5% silver 95% tin, melts in the 450 degree range and acts like common lead/tin solders.I keep some 50% silver high tensile solder, when it goes liquid it runs like water. A little more heat and it will quickly boil.There are many "silver solders" all with different liquid temps. If arc touches flux or solder it will boil the crap out of either one! I tried to apply like tig brazing- oh what a mess!Oh yea- the standard statement- post some damm pics especially if you come up with some new and interesting process.Peter
Reply:Originally Posted by castweldI think tig will work- if you only use it for heat. Oh yea- the standard statement- post some damm pics especially if you come up with some new and interesting process.Peter
Reply:what are you going to solderi did ss to ss and ss to copperfor many years at foxboro co.and cti-cryogenics in mansfield maill get out my old hand book on itwe used oxy ace and oxy mappif you over heat the stainless it will turnblack and then you have to buff it out orit will never take the filler
Reply:Key temperature is going to fall on either side of 840 degrees. Below, you got soldering, above you got brazing. With tig, you got fusion!! Last edited by tanglediver; 04-17-2010 at 12:33 AM.City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Now its 840, used to be 860, then it was 850 for awhile......anyway.The tig torch "can" be used as the heat source, but its vastly less than ideal. You want to bring the entire joint up to brazing temperature evenly, and thats what the tig struggles with. A fellow at work apparently has a love affair with his Tig machine, and will struggle for hours using it to do a job suited better by another method.....why....I have no clue.
Reply:imhoit is a strictly arbitrary distinction between soldering and brazing, seems like the exact same process.different melting  point, but still both require the same fitup for capillary action, appropriate flux to clean the surfaces...whats the difference?
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbeadimhoit is a strictly arbitrary distinction between soldering and brazing, seems like the exact same process.different melting  point, but still both require the same fitup for capillary action, appropriate flux to clean the surfaces...whats the difference?
Reply:excellent point! silver solder is a misnomer ... closer to brazing than solderingonly silver solder depending on alloy will have a lower melting point Originally Posted by weldbeadimhoit is a strictly arbitrary distinction between soldering and brazing, seems like the exact same process.different melting  point, but still both require the same fitup for capillary action, appropriate flux to clean the surfaces...whats the difference?
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterI'll use a Oxy Accet torch
Reply:see www.carbideprocessors.com for brazing info