Stainless pump housing......

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Here is the beginings of one of today's projects...... A STAINLESS STEEL pump housing..... most of your quality pumps will be stainless... so keep that in mind if you ever need to make a repair like this.Here is to pump housing, the diameter of the opening is approx 14 inches, you can see that some gorilla torqued down too hard on the bolts and broke two of the cast ears.....Now I made a template for the new lug ears and cut two new ears....Then I removed the damaged areas of the casting preping them for the repair.... Cutting these areas back the way I did will allow for an easier repair in the end, and it also allows me to remove any additional cracking that may lead to a failure in the repair down the road....I will post the rest tomorrow when I finish the job. Oh yeah for those of you wondering why they don't just buy a new housing...... this housing is $2500.00 to buy._________________Chris
Reply:Very nice demonstration Chris. Yep, just a sheet of 16 ga. SS is $400. Now add on top the casting process, the extra material and the design...$2500 is a deal.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:I love it when the customer tells me how much a new one is.  It helps with the price of the repair.Lookin good so farDavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:When they're are stuck..We "unstuck" them..Then you stick'em with the bill..You get all the fun jobs......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Okay..... here it is done. Some of the pics aren't very good, I need to play with my camera so I can take pics without the flash. Sorry but I really didn't have a lot of time today to set up for a photo shoot  I cut some pieces of stainless for a riser to bring the lug pad to the correct height and brazed them to the casting use a silver braze rod. I then welded the lug pad to the risers... this pic didn't come out too good.But here is the repair completed......... Thanks for looking.... _________________Chris
Reply:Looks great on my end. The pictures are also good, you did fine!John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:make your mind up, red or yellow grinder. lol, looks good chris, but why braze with silver instead of say a 309 rod."Retreat hell, were just fighting in the other direction"Miller Trailblazer 302, Extreme 12 VS, Dimension 400, Spectrum 375, HF 251D-1, Milermatic 251 w/ spoolgun  Hypertherm 1000Lincoln sp 1702000 F-450 to haul it
Reply:Beauty!
Reply:Originally Posted by backuprollermake your mind up, red or yellow grinder. lol, looks good chris, but why braze with silver instead of say a 309 rod.
Reply:Originally Posted by backuproller why braze with silver instead of say a 309 rod.
Reply:Chris - I think those spark test pictures would be a great contribution. A great idea to add to the forum.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:They are coming Micro..... I just need a little time. As much as I like to contribute I do have to do some work too! _________________Chris
Reply:Everything on stainless steel steam turbine blades is brazed.  It's pretty common practice, I don't know why it's preffered.
Reply:Originally Posted by 76GMC1500Everything on stainless steel steam turbine blades is brazed.  It's pretty common practice, I don't know why it's preffered.