Low rider project

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I'm new to this forum so I wanted to post one of my recent projects.  this is a 2004 GMC Sierra that is getting bags front and rear.  this is all in my spare time so it has taken 3 weekends to get this far.  Happy to here any comments. Attached Images
Reply:Looks good, should be plenty strong......Will it lay frame like that? The C notch doesnt look very big from the pic. I like the homemade 4 link!!!!Miller blue star 2eLincoln 175
Reply:The frame curves up quite a bit in the back--and yes it will lay frame.  I have 40hrs+ into it so far
Reply:Looks like your having fun anyway..Is this gonna hop up and down or just make a bunch of sparks going down the road?If your dragging the frame..well thats your perogitave..Just don't do it near me.. Thats just a crash waiting to happen... ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Looking good rotorimp, as you already know I am jealous of this project. We will have to do another one when I get back to AZ.Miller Syncrowave 200Hobart Handler 140Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38E-Z Tube BenderPlasma Cam DHC2
Reply:nice  like to see the truck
Reply:work looks good, i just always felt a truck was ment to go up not down. but to each his own, its looking like a fun project. be shore to show us the finished project. summer is here, plant a tree for mother earth. if you dont have time or space, sponcer some one else to plant one for you.feel free to shoot me a PM or e-mail me at [email][email protected] i got lots of time.
Reply:It is a fun project--any time I get to fabricate/weld/make sparks is a fun time.  This is not my truck--it is a side project for a friend.  I have a Bronco--it hauls things and goes over mountains--(as trucks are intended)  That being said I took on the project because I have always wanted to do a low rider based on what it takes to get it there. The way I set it up is to have 1 inch of clearance when the bags are fully deflated.  It will look like it is laying frame but still be safely above ground--I will weld a plate onto a spring so that will spark but the frame itself will never drag.
Reply:Just a couple questions and suggestions.Why did you make your own C-notch, why not use tube?Did you weld inside the bottom edges of the C-notch, I notice you chose to grind them down.Also I would box your frame between the C-notch and the rear crossmember.Patriot Performance AutoLincoln Power Mig 255CLincoln AC-225 StickVictor Journeyman O/AQuincy QT-5 Compressor
Reply:The C-channel was the easiest and I do not have a tube bender.  The C channel was 4 pieces that weld together to make a very solid frame.  the bottoms are welded and boxing the rear channel is on the agenda. I ground everything down for looks--the guy I'm doing this for does not want to see the welds
Reply:Has this truck been hit, then straightened? The forward crossmember looks a little tweeked in the pics.Miller Syncrowave 200Hobart Handler 140Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38E-Z Tube BenderPlasma Cam DHC2
Reply:Originally Posted by QuciferHas this truck been hit, then straightened? The forward crossmember looks a little tweeked in the pics.
Reply:What are teh measurments of the C-notch. I am intersted in havign this done to my truck. Not enough experience welding to try this myself.
Reply:Measurements are different from truck to truck.  The frame rails rise quite a bit on this truck so I didn't need as much of a notch.the FWD cross-member is is factory you can see it better in the update pictures. Attached Images
Reply:Roto,This is EXACTLY what got me into college. I wanted to do a step notch and drop my Nissan Hardbody. It was way to expensive to pay a shop to do it. I did it myself back in the day on my own truck and it was awesome to have guys ask me to do their truck next. Please keep adding pictures as you progress. It brings back some great memories. Oh, by the way, I did it with a chop saw, a Lincoln 225 ac buzzbox, a makita grinder and that was it. No plasma, no torch, no sawzall. Man, it was a slow go of it. Life is much better now! hehehehLincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v  Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:The plasma Has saved soo much time!!!!  I cut the entire bed out in about 30 minutes!. I'll post up som pictures with the bed on--right now i'm smoothing the fuel tank door (it is getting a fuel cell)
Reply:I made a Battery box this weekend for the lowrider. Attached Images
Reply:looking good, keep it going and dont forget the pic's summer is here, plant a tree for mother earth. if you dont have time or space, sponcer some one else to plant one for you.feel free to shoot me a PM or e-mail me at [email][email protected] i got lots of time.
Reply:If I had plasma =(........Nice sturdy designMy Babies: HF Drill pressHF Pipe Bender3   4.5" Black and Decker angle grindersLincoln Electric PROMIG 175that´s it!
Reply:Look pretty good.I have one big question. I never seen a rear 4 link suspension like that before. I have worked on some custom suspension before but my experience and education are a little old and traditional. Is their a site or a place I can look at for this type. I would love to see the benefits or reasons for this design. I understand the acting forces and how they apply to the frame and can see some benefits but wonder about its structural strength when under power. I never work on low riders and frame dragger's before, just 1/4 mile drag suspensions which were the topical 4 link were the bars all run forward.Just want to learn and understand anything new. Keep the pictures coming so we can see how it all turns out.Have funMiller DVI2Lincoln Precision Tig 225Thermodynamics Cutmaster 38Everything else needed.
Reply:The bags only allow the axle to move up and down a maximum of 8 1/2 to 9".  the parallel to the frame bars are running forward of the axle and the triangulated bars are running to the rear due to cross member and fuel tank issues (other wise they would be on the other side of the axle.    With the triangulated bars you do not need to run a pan hard bar to control side to side movement.  This configuration will not load/unload during braking or acceleration.  If I was building a rock crawler or off road vehicle this would not be ideal due to limited up and down travel.  The only negative consequence is the pinion angle changes 5 degrees when the truck is layed out (not that it will be moving so it is not that negative)
Reply:Yeah, right. If it can move, it will. Anyone who has a truck like that WILL try to drive it as low as it can go. How do I know? I have a one ton crew cab dually that lays frame. But it goes north real quick. Air bags inflate incredibly fast when you rig em for it. Ever see a bag inflate at 600psi with 1inch ports? Holy smokes. Stand clear.http://www.jakdupkustoms.com/images/videos/MOV00305.MPGLincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v  Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:I see you may have some clearance issues but Still missing something. I don't want to be a pain in the A$$ but I real want to understand this set up. I will point out again that I have limited experience with rear suspension other than the typical setups. So if I am off please correct me.As I am to understand the upper and lower control arms load equally under load, and for this reason the lower bar should always run forward as the are allot stronger when pulled on rather than being pushed on. With the setup you have, all the bars are under push load. My self taught education was mostly for drag racing so the setup you have may work great for everyday driving, I have no idea. If you have done this before or are thinking out side the box, ( which I do think would be pretty cool ) let me know how it works and handles. what the pros and cons are. Just trying to expand my understandingsMiller DVI2Lincoln Precision Tig 225Thermodynamics Cutmaster 38Everything else needed.
Reply:awesome job rotorimp keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming I would really like to see how you do everything, I am doing this same thing to my 2000 GMC Sierra soon, I will be doing a C-channel and 4-link, Z and body drop....goal is to lay frame and rocker's
Reply:how do you plan to lower the front 1/2 or have you already done that?keep the pic's comming.welcom to the site bichen60, you got a nice old 60's car or you jusst injoying being 60?Last edited by fun4now.; 03-18-2007 at 08:38 AM. summer is here, plant a tree for mother earth. if you dont have time or space, sponcer some one else to plant one for you.feel free to shoot me a PM or e-mail me at [email][email protected] i got lots of time.lol im 19 and rock'n a 1960 belair brookwood that is also on air bags and lay's frame
Reply:I like the battery boxDewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:woooow!! i hope you pick that thing back up befor uyou drive it nice car and cool drop. summer is here, plant a tree for mother earth. if you dont have time or space, sponcer some one else to plant one for you.feel free to shoot me a PM or e-mail me at [email][email protected] i got lots of time.
Reply:Jamlit--I can not take credit for the link placement-a local shop that specializes in Lowrider layed out all the measrements.  Here is a site that helped me.  http://www.ridetech.com/techarticles...nktechinfo.asp  About the only Non reccomended way to  set up 4 links is reverse (all four bars going to the rear).  The limitation to the way I set it up is overall travel.The front is lowered--from a welding standpoint it is not very much to see.  The springs get replaced with 2 cups and a bag goes inbetween. and since the shock used to be in the middle of the spring I relocated the shocks to the side of the A arm.
Reply:The lowrider has been done for a couple of weeks and I think it turned out well. Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by jamlitLook pretty good.I have one big question. I never seen a rear 4 link suspension like that before. I have worked on some custom suspension before but my experience and education are a little old and traditional. Is their a site or a place I can look at for this type. I would love to see the benefits or reasons for this design. I understand the acting forces and how they apply to the frame and can see some benefits but wonder about its structural strength when under power. I never work on low riders and frame dragger's before, just 1/4 mile drag suspensions which were the topical 4 link were the bars all run forward.Just want to learn and understand anything new. Keep the pictures coming so we can see how it all turns out.Have fun