Yet another roller

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I based this roller off of the one below.(I dont remember where I saw it at so I can give proper credit.    I built this off & on over the course of a couple months. It`s not quite complete, but, it is useable.(would`nt you know it, forgot to take pictures of the rings  )   After using it today, a couple of my suspicions were confirmed:1) I need to probably double the size of the handle.2) I need to knurl the two bottom rollers slightly, to help when rolling flat stock 1/4 inch and thicker. I will also be machining guide grooves in the upper roller to aide in rolling solid round stock 1/2 inch and thicker.   Eventually,I would like to make an upper roller for doing 1" or 1 1/2" square tubing, as well as comparable size angle.   Okay, on to the specs:   The side plates are 8"x8"x1" thick.   The bottom plate is 6"x8"x1" thick.   The shafts are 1 3/16" dia. by 7" long.   The rollers are 2 3/4" dia. by 3" long.(will be changing the bottom rollers to 5" long. I will also be changing the upper roller to 3" dia.(to enable me to make smaller dia. rings.)   On to the pics!(will try and get pics of rings tommorow.)Last edited by MicroZone; 05-20-2007 at 07:23 PM.Darwinian evolution used to fix stupid. Now that humans have mostly removed themselves from the process of natural selection the survival rate of idiots has skyrocketed.
Reply:Last pics.  Also the last pic is of my very first tig weld!   Thanks for looking.Last edited by MicroZone; 05-20-2007 at 07:28 PM.Darwinian evolution used to fix stupid. Now that humans have mostly removed themselves from the process of natural selection the survival rate of idiots has skyrocketed.
Reply:How do you get the completed ring out? You have to slide the whole top roll assembly out?
Reply:Originally Posted by rmkrider1How do you get the completed ring out? You have to slide the whole top roll assembly out?
Reply:Looks beefy enough. Nice work.
Reply:I posted this in SFT , now I've seen it I have to make one, what are the hole centers of the bottom two rollers?Clive
Reply:Originally Posted by cliveI posted this in SFT , now I've seen it I have to make one, what are the hole centers of the bottom two rollers?Clive
Reply:Looks like it will do some nice heavy rings. How big have you tried yet?
Reply:Originally Posted by WolfmanJack13Looks like it will do some nice heavy rings. How big have you tried yet?
Reply:Looks great Rob ! I hope to make one after my pattern cutter.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Originally Posted by MicroZoneLooks great Rob ! I hope to make one after my pattern cutter.
Reply:I realize with a motor driven unit mounting won't be quite as critical, but have you decided on a mounting system?
Reply:scratches head?Ummm, I understand most ring rollers.  I see how yours has the handle driving one lower roller, which drives the other lower roller via the sprocket and chain arraingement.  I see Oil-Lite/bronze bushings for all three beefy shafts (1 3/16 inch dia steel, wow), I see thick side plates and bottom plate (1 inch thick steel, wow again).  I have a quick calculation of ~50 pounds of steel in just the two side plates and the bottom plate!  Not including the rollers or the handle.I see a nifty top-latch.  It's a little tough to tell, but the welds for the square mounting blocks to the side plates for the latch look cold and undersized for the 1" plate thickness.  And there was no bevel prep before the fillet welds were done.  The welds may be adequate for the task, but they look like a weak point compared to that beefy 1" thick steel.I see the top roller is mounted in square aluminum (?) blocks, but the shaft is eccentrically mounted in the squares.  So you slide the aluminum blocks off the top shaft, rotate to the desired eccentricity, and slide the blocks back in.  And the blocks are captive vertically in the side plates.  But that only gives you 4 settings, and you can't start your rolling at a zero offset and then nudge the top roller tighter a little bit, roll a little, nudge the top roller a little tighter, roll some more, repeat until you get to the desired finished diameter.Am I missing something on how you set the top roller?  The two jack-screws don't look like they adjust the position of the top-roller-mounting-blocks, they just help hold them in place.  The only setting for the top roller is based on which way you position the aluminum blocks?
Reply:Run that for awhile and have arms like Popeye!! Man-o-man!Now make a stand for it and adapt a motor.......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyI realize with a motor driven unit mounting won't be quite as critical, but have you decided on a mounting system?
Reply:Originally Posted by MoonRisescratches head?Ummm, I understand most ring rollers.  I see how yours has the handle driving one lower roller, which drives the other lower roller via the sprocket and chain arraingement.  I see Oil-Lite/bronze bushings for all three beefy shafts (1 3/16 inch dia steel, wow), I see thick side plates and bottom plate (1 inch thick steel, wow again).  I have a quick calculation of ~50 pounds of steel in just the two side plates and the bottom plate!  Not including the rollers or the handle.I see a nifty top-latch.  It's a little tough to tell, but the welds for the square mounting blocks to the side plates for the latch look cold and undersized for the 1" plate thickness.  And there was no bevel prep before the fillet welds were done.  The welds may be adequate for the task, but they look like a weak point compared to that beefy 1" thick steel.I see the top roller is mounted in square aluminum (?) blocks, but the shaft is eccentrically mounted in the squares.  So you slide the aluminum blocks off the top shaft, rotate to the desired eccentricity, and slide the blocks back in.  And the blocks are captive vertically in the side plates.  But that only gives you 4 settings, and you can't start your rolling at a zero offset and then nudge the top roller tighter a little bit, roll a little, nudge the top roller a little tighter, roll some more, repeat until you get to the desired finished diameter.Am I missing something on how you set the top roller?  The two jack-screws don't look like they adjust the position of the top-roller-mounting-blocks, they just help hold them in place.  The only setting for the top roller is based on which way you position the aluminum blocks?