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how would you make this??http://www.accessiblesystems.com/udb01.php
Reply:get a piece of pipe weld a half inch nut in each end then get some half inch threaded rod and weld on some wobble joints make the l brackets and your done350P 30A spool gun cut master 51 syncro 250 other stuff " take a dog off the street and make him prosper and he will not bite you sad the same cannot be said for man" i didnt use punctuation just to piss you off
Reply:I'd just tack angle iron in there like I always have.Are you looking to market something like that ?Anything worth doing is worth doing RIGHT
Reply:thanks guys - NO - not looking to market something like this - looking to do something like that for a frame off restoration (C3 corvette - 1970) - I have never done a restoration - in fact, I have never welded...but have recently purcased a 150amp mig welder - so...complete noobUH - follow the pipe - follow nuts welded in (by the way...what would be the way to do that? - pipe with ID that is equivalent to the OD of the nut...OK...how do you hold the nut right at the end of the pipe...magnet? - or just have the pipe horizontal and slip the nut in and let it rest? - the other thing i don't follow is the "wobble joints" - what is that? - and how does that relate to the bracket? -as for the bracket, this looks like angle iron - what size? - and assume these holes match up with the door hinge holes and you would use the door hinge bolts...right?any other tips or tricks here? - thanks! ed
Reply:I'd never buy something from someone that can't even get the spelling correct on their website:and sedans that have extensive rust so the body is week.What, so the body is 7 days long???
Reply:I'd say umahunter is saying to get some tubing of your choice with an I.D. larger than the threaded rod you choose (maybe 1/2") and weld nuts to the end of the tubing. The wobble joint he refers to are called heim joints. They come in a huge variety of strengths and sizes. Some threaded to receive threaded rod, some with rod already incorperated onto the joint. Your hardware store should have a small selection. Probably the flimsier style, but enough to give you an idea to get started. Depnds on whether you want to build one time brackets or reusables.
Reply:Go to the hardware store and get a turnbuckle for a garden gate or a screen door. Get some angle iron or flat stock the length to span the door opening. Cut the angle or flat stock to the length you need minus the length of the turnbuckle ( adjust the turnbuckle all the way open or closed, depending on whether you want it to push or pull). Attach the angle or flatstock to one side of the opening and the turnbuckle to the other end of the angle or flatstock and then to the other side of the opening. Depending on how much movement you need you could use a turnbuckle on each end.Just a thought, Hope it helps.
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyI'd say umahunter is saying to get some tubing of your choice with an I.D. larger than the threaded rod you choose (maybe 1/2") and weld nuts to the end of the tubing. The wobble joint he refers to are called heim joints. They come in a huge variety of strengths and sizes. Some threaded to receive threaded rod, some with rod already incorperated onto the joint. Your hardware store should have a small selection. Probably the flimsier style, but enough to give you an idea to get started. Depnds on whether you want to build one time brackets or reusables.
Reply:Just remember you're working with a fiberglass body, make the framework your talking about completely bolt-in. Door Hinge points triangulated to the door striker mount. When you weld make sure you have a metal plate between what you are welding on and the fiberglass, along with a towel soaked with water (fastest way to smother a fire). Don't get in a hurry or you'll fast get into trouble and ruin the body of that car. I saw a vette burn to the ground because a guy got in a hurry.
Reply:thanks guys ... will digest and then come back with follow on questions ...Ed (never welded...yet)
Reply:or you could just get some turnbuckles from the hardware storeChuckASME Pressure Vessel welder
Reply:To hold the nut in the tubing, just put it on the threaded rod. Don't weld the nut to the rod The rod will help you keep it straight. Probably should tack in 3 placed before removing the rod and welding it.Please post pics of your weldsDavidReal world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by edlhow would you make this??http://www.accessiblesystems.com/udb01.php
Reply:If you're doing a C3, you don't need any of that bracing, unless the body is all broken up. You just need a set of boby straps that hook under the body ahead of the door and behind the door, then lift the body up. The rear end over the wheel wells is plenty strong, the weak point is the front fenders over the front wheel wells, be careful with the front end, but the fenders are strong enough to support the front end.Two or three years ago I built a body frame for a friend that does frame-offs of old Corvettes. I helped him lift the boby off the frame and we just left the body hang in the straps while I built the frame. He needed something to set the body on to roll around the shop and could also roll onto the trailer to take to the paint shop. Basically it supported the four frame mounts around the passenger compartment and the nose of the body. The rear end is strong enough that no support is needed.Last edited by alanh; 09-02-2007 at 08:14 PM.
Reply:The threaded rod braces will have the advantage of being adjustable so you can pull a small amount of twist or bend out of the frame by turning the pipe section with a wrench. You should be able to get it fine tuned before you start on the body repairs.I would put some jam nuts on the threaded section so once you have things where you want them you can tighten them against the weld nuts so everything stays fixed from that point forward.
Reply:thanks guys...
Reply:Just as a side note, don't use magnets to hold the part you're welding on. If you do, you'll quickly learn just what "arc blow" is. |
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