current, rod, settings for mild steel

admin

I'm new to welding and have a Lincoln 225 AC welder. I am welding 3mm tubular mild steel and am looking for suggestions on current setting and rod selection (diameter and #)
Reply:I'd recommend 6011 @ 50 to 80 depending on your machine and expertise. 3mm is mighty thin, and tubular requires a little experience as your changing position continually. Here is Lincoln's rod chart. It tells you about method, settings, application etc. Regardless of rod maker, current setting are pretty much the same.http://content.lincolnelectric.com/p...ture/c2410.pdfOnly when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.                                         -Cree Indian ProverbSA 200 LincolnVictor Torches
Reply:He is right...3mm is thin. If you are going to do this with your AC225 then explore a 6013 rod also. It is a shallower penetrating rod than the 6011and less likely to burn through. Use just enough amperage to light the rod and no more.StephenMillermatic 251Miller Syncrowave 200Miller 30A SpoolgunHypertherm Powermax 30Etc., etc., etc.............Cancer Sucks!
Reply:there is thin and then there is rfthin..3mm is between 3/32 and 1/8 thick.. some  3/32 "   6011 as suggested at 50amps should be very do-able..
Reply:1/16" or 3/32" 6013 would be a good choice.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Thanks for the info. I have been trying 1/8 inch 6011 rod at 60 amps. At 75 amps I was burning through at times. I do have trouble striking the arc. I'll try a thinner rod.
Reply:I forgot to ask, what would be the advantage of a 6013 rod ? Is there a site that explains the different types of rods and why one is better than another for a given weld?
Reply:http://www.hobartwelders.com/product...ectrode-chart/
Reply:Thanks for the chart and reference to the lincolelectric site.I also found some info at the site www.gowelding.org on what the rod numbers mean. I'm guessing a 6013 rod has more flux than a 6011 which is why it has less penetration. I'm beginning to feel a liitle more confident with what these rod numbers mean.I am trying to weld a driveway gate using 1 1/2 " square tubular mild steel (1/8"  thick)  for a frame. The corners to be welded have miter cuts. The book I was readng recommends separating butt welds by 1/16". How necessary is this since the fit is somewhat irregular anyway?
Reply:Originally Posted by jimrockirelandThanks for the chart and reference to the lincolelectric site.I also found some info at the site www.gowelding.org on what the rod numbers mean. I'm guessing a 6013 rod has more flux than a 6011 which is why it has less penetration. I'm beginning to feel a liitle more confident with what these rod numbers mean.
Reply:Thanks to all those who responded. I feel like I have a decent chance at completing the job.
Reply:You'll save a lot of your thin tubing by getting yourself  a stick of 1/8 or 3/16 by 1 flatbar. cut it 6" or so strips. Use this to learn on. Get you arc striking down. Learn what speed works well. Then step down to thinner metal. You'll have to move faster on the thin stuff. Actually even though 6011 is a deep penatrating rod it works well on thin metal if you whip it a bit just before you burn through. 6013 an 7014 are good rods to use also but act totally different than 6011.Tough as nails and damn near as smart
Reply:I am no expert by any stretch but depending on what the tube will be used for, would something like 1/16" 6012 be a good rod? It is supposed to be a low penetration rod. I have had decent luck with this on thin steel.
Reply:I'm building a driveway gate and have been practicing on 3" pieces of 1 1/2" x  1 1/2" x 1/8" with miter cuts. I am then grinding bevels on the miters and corners as suggested by DSW. I am getting to where it is a passable weld, but I am still having trouble striking the arc. The first arc takes a while, but after welding the same piece on different sides it seems to get easier to strike an arc. I'm wondering if my ground clamp becomes less resistive the more I weld and gives me a better ground as time goes on. I've settled on a 6011   3/32" rod and 60 amps. I'm also thinking of making the weld in  2 passes to build up the weld and not burn through.  Does all this sound right.