New HH175

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My new HH175 is sitting in my shop.  I thought I would be able to use the 50amp recepticle I have for the stick welder, but the manual states the max is 20amp.  The welder looks like it has a 50 amp plug though.  It also looks like it has an internal 25amp breaker.  Does anyone know if  a 20amp breaker is the max that can be used?
Reply:I'm sure wiser folks than I will reply, and I'm no electrician, but I can't see why you couldn't plug it into a 50 amp plug. I think the manual probably means you need at least a twenty amp circuit to run it. It'll just use what it needs (weather that's 7 or 20 or however many amps, depending on the welder's settings at the time). Your shop vac doesn't necessarily need 15 amps, but you plug it into a 15 amp circuit, right?Just my $0.02 ... :-)Luc
Reply:Go ahead and use the 50 amp plug. check you manual, I believe your machine has internal protection.I use my MM210 , and Spectrum 375 plasma cutter, on a 50 amp plug, same as my SD180.
Reply:Jim314- I run my HH175 off the same 50 amp breaker I use for my stick machine and haven't had any problems. Happy welding and let us know how you like it- I really like mine. "All that is required for evil to triumph is that good men do nothing"
Reply:Thanks guys.  That's what I thought but wanted to make sure before I burned the machine up.  I only plan on using it on thin stock, I'll continue to use stick on anything over 1/8".
Reply:I run my HH175 full bore on a 50 amp breaker with a dedicated subpanel and my house hasn't burnt.welding at nite in the swamp draws a crowd, mostly "mouth breathers" that want to look at the "sparks".A true democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for lunch.
Reply:Originally posted by Crithpy_Critter welding at nite in the swamp draws a crowd, mostly "mouth breathers" that want to look at the "sparks".
Reply:Jim 314 - Hobart's recommendation in their manual for a 20 amp maximum breaker is a product liability cya thing carried to the limit.  If the unit were to develop a short in the power cord, the internal breaker, being downstream,  wouldn't see the increased load and a fire could result.  Of course, a short limited to 20 amps could start a fire just like a 50 amp short, although it'd probably take a bit longer, so it's probably a moot point anyway.  However, if the internal breaker should fail closed then the unit would be free to draw 50 amps, assuming another internal short develops while plugged into a 50 amp breaker.  But that's too many "what ifs" for most people and since the statistical probability of two back-to-back failures is very low, so I'd just relax and use the 50 amp breaker.  People who worry about this sort of thing typically wear both suspenders and two belts.If sometime you should find that your internal breaker doesn't work (failed closed) which is a very unlikely possibility, then I'd replace it, but in the interim I would plug into a 20 amp breaker."I USED TO BE AN ELECTRICIAN AND I'LL GO BACK TO IT TOO, JUST AS SOON AS MY EYEBROWS GROW BACK!"
Reply:The welder works fine on the 50amp circuit, the weldor is another story.  I've only had a chance to play with it a few times, but I'm having a hell of a time seeing the puddle. Is this normal?  I'm using the flux core wire it came with. Also, the nozzel seems to me like it's in the way of seeing where your welding.  I find myself is awkward positions just trying to see around the nozzel.  Any suggestions or opinions on what I should be doing differently are appreciated.
Reply:Jim, if your using the fluxcore self shielded wire,  just remove the nozzel for now.  You only need it when you are using gas.  When you switch to gas just make sure the gas holes are clear.  Someone gave me that tip onetime and it really helped.
Reply:Thanks Frank, I'll try that.
Reply:Jim314-sooner or later you'll want to try shielding gas and you'll have to use the gas nozzle. Try watching the puddle from a little bit to the side while maintaining your gun's orientation. It's not that hard just practice practice pratice! Also with solid wire you won't have as much smoke and stuff, thus better visibility. Good luck and have fun.  "All that is required for evil to triumph is that good men do nothing"
Reply:The nozzle on my HH175 hasn't been on the gun in at least two years. Just remember that the tip is electrically alive when you pull the trigger and will short out if you touch any grounded metal. Mine has quite a few arc pits in it. I spray my gun with anti-spatter every once in a while. They are a good machine, especially for the price. I think you will like it.
Reply:Thanks for the reply's guys.  I removed the nozzel and it certainly helps me see where I'm welding.  I know after I get comfortable with it I'll have to put the nozzle back on and learn to use it because I bought this machine to use gas with, not the flux core.  So far I've learned I need to move faster than with stick, otherwise I burn through the tubing.  I was trying to use it like stick and it didn't work at all.  I'm still having trouble seeing a puddle.  Haven't figured that one out yet.  It may be that the puddle is just smaller than with stick and I'm going to have to get use to it.  It also seems to burn brighter than stick, but that may be my imagination.
Reply:Don't have a lot of experience welding yet, but I used to be an electrician. The 50A receptacle will be fine if you have internal protection on the machine. Hope that confirms your thoughts.Ben
Reply:Originally posted by Jim314  I bought this machine to use gas with, not the flux core.    It also seems to burn brighter than stick, but that may be my imagination.
Reply:Thanks Cutter, hopefully I'll get to give that a try this weekend.
Reply:Well I didn't get any gas this weekend, but I did talk to the local dealer Friday about the cost of cylinder and gas startup.  Then I got side tracked taking about a plasma cutter.  I tried your advice Cutter and came up with much better results.  I could see the puddle and moved ahead of it as it filled in.  I was trying to pull the puddle like I was stick welding, pushing is much better.  I do have a question though, at the end of the weld I am getting a crater, or whatever you would call it.  It shows in the left end of this weld.  I tried stopping at the end and holding that position for a second, or fraction of a second, and that seemed to make it worse.  I thought it might fill it in if I hesitated, but no.  This happend on every practice weld I made.  Is this something peculiar to mig, or too me?This was on 3/16" at tap 4, ws of 40, and .030 fluxcore. Attached Images
Reply:Jim,The crater at the end of your weld isn't unique to you.  I find that you may need to hold position for a full 2 count (maybe a little less)on that thick of metal to fill the crater.
Reply:Thanks Frank, I'll try that.  Maybe I wasn't holding it in position long enough.
Reply:Jim, I went back to see what Engloid said caused fisheys in tig welds.  He said they were caused by the puddle cooling too fast, so I think you are on the right track.  And yes, I tend to get the same thing.This is the thread if you want to read his comments:http://www.weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread...&threadid=1370
Reply:At the end of the weld , you can pause and then go back into the weld a litttle ,or make a circle with the gun at the end and it won't leave a crater. Just my 2 cents ,DavidDavid
Reply:Cutter, I remember reading here about fisheyes, but didn't know what they were, thanks for the link.David, I'll try that next time, thank you.  It certainly sounds reasonable.  I struggled with this mig at first and really didn't like it, but now that I'm getting more use to it and learned to push rather than pull, it's made a big difference.  I know why people like them now.  Plus I love the sound it make when welding. Last edited by Jim314; 05-24-2004 at 10:28 PM.
Reply:I don't think they are really the same, Jim.  But of a similar nature;  the puddle cools too fast & just kinda collapses in the middle to a greater or lesser degree.