Victory mc footboard-round 5-clevis to sideplate

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Victory mc footboard-round 5-clevis to sideplateWeld clevis castings to side plates, begin side plate to bolt mount welding-Using the steel mock up fixture, I verified and transferred location dimensions to the aluminum plates. The foot board will run parallel to the bottom of the side plates, which are pitched uP at 1.5 degrees by the 1.875 and 2.000 blocking, when located in the symmetry fixture.-The footboard  was attached to the clevis, the clevis clamped to the side plate, which was clamped in a vertical position, to be able to adjust this parallel condition. This makes a no-guessing fitup.http://www.weldingweb.com/attachment...1&d=1198303274Clevis castings-Above as finished on the side plates-squared off the bottoms of the castings to rest flat on the plates, grinding  slight relief in the centers to allow the four corners to contact-which is a good tip to remember when one’s trying to stop a part from rocking on a flat surface-a small, hot, pass was first done, all around after tacking—getting some melt and undercut-purposely in both the casting edge and flat plate-cover passes then done, using the natural pulsing of the 20 cycle/sec AC HF to flatten down the top bead, fair it into the edges. (This slow, AC HF pulsing delivers the max heat output. It hits a part hard enough to actually vibrate it! The AC HF is variable from 20 cycles to 150 cycles.)-On critical joints, especially corners, I wish to to get very smooth, faired transition of the weld bead to the parent metal. ********Radiusing and fairing the starts and stops at corners-even in MIG, stops-or at least minimizes stress cracking in those areas.Finishing the clevis weld beadsI used a combination of the 4 1/2” FibraTex pad, little abrasive drums, 2 sizes of tapered cartridge rolls and a stiff, encapsulated abrasive filament wheel (blue bristles); all shown below:http://www.weldingweb.com/attachment...1&d=1198303388Doing this, trying to blend, flatten, radius stuff down is touchy to do. I used the blue bristle to polish up the surfaces to highlight what needed to be sanded. If I ever do something like this, again—I’ll insist on just the ‘as-welded’ for show surfaces; especially if the job is to be powdercoated. If one wishes an absolutely primo-surface, such as one that will be buffed to ‘chrome polished’ or plated---that really means making up test parts, just to establish the finish methods and tooling to be used.     The matte finish of the bead blasting, plus the powdercoating helps immensely to hide what otherwise would be considered visual flaws.Begin side plate to bolt mount weldinghttp://www.weldingweb.com/attachment...1&d=1198303534Above is the R/S mount, as tacked, showing the 6˚ angle sine bar, made from 2 pieces of angle. The bottom resting 1.875 and 2.000 steel blocking, plus other clamps were used during the tack up, then removed for picture clarity.http://www.weldingweb.com/attachment...1&d=1198303599After tack up, the part was test-fit, on the bike, with the customer present. He’s pleased with theway this is going. The above shows the amount of leverage/moment that is transmitted back thru this boltedcasting. It’s significant, which has been discussed and acknowledged with the customer. -remove the mount, re-attach to the symmetry fixture, then begin grinding a big, deep bevel in the top jointbetween the side plate and the cast bolt mount.Command Decision Time-The more I looked at what the size of these ground bevels were going to be, with a corresponding huge weld areas, which means HUGE weld pulling. (The parent casting is weaker than the weld or the plate, so the casting will have lots of ground bevel to let the weld fuse to as much surface area of the casting as possible. The underside of the casting will be beveled as well, this bevel welded up, then continued into a big, faired fillet weld.)    I decided the only way to reliably compensate for this pulling would be to fit, fab and install the inside corner gusset plate, before doing much of those big, bevel and fillet welds. That’s the next step. Getting that gusset plate securely in will stop this pulling; the thought of which, has worried me considerably-since the start of this project.******The above is another tip on any weldment that will see weld pulling—gusset the damn thing before doing the weld that you know—is going to create havoc.Continued in part 6 Attached ImagesBlackbird