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Table I am currently working on. 2x2 tube. .083 wall, tigged. Modified version of the table on Miller's web site. They used 1/8 inch wall, but my design uses more support, and I am not going to be using it for anything crazy, even though I think it could handle a good load and take a fair beating. I see so many things over built, and I just need it to serve my purpose as I don't weld for a living. Tubing, even thin wall is incredibly strong if it is built right in my opinion. Still need the 5-6 inch HD casters and 3/8 - 1/2 inch top. ($$$$$). Table is 4 foot by 7 foot.Pics: Attached Images
Reply:Lookin nice! You have me drooling, I can't afford something that big or else I'd have one just like that! It does look like it's quite a heavy duty taking, and I think that table will handle more than you'll ever through at it.
Reply:Looks like a great table!Size is great and the welds look pretty good too...what projects do you usually build? What machine are you using?My Babies: HF Drill pressHF Pipe Bender3 4.5" Black and Decker angle grindersLincoln Electric PROMIG 175that´s it!
Reply:Three More:The last one is vertical up. Still not very good at those, and the butt welds, while strong, were less pretty because I could not rest my hand on as much, and where the tubing starts to round, it leaves a gap, and I was having problems burning off the edge and left a little undercut.....Any advice on tubing when it butts up at 90 degrees? Do I need to make two passes? The problem is it takes quite a bit of filler for the gap where the tubing starts to round. Do I focus my heat on the non-edge and try to bring it into the edge? Or do I just need to run cooler and make a root pass, then a final pass? I tried using 3/32 rod, but the tubing is only .083 thousandths, and that rod was a little too much for that, and did not want to burn into the pool at the low amperage. I went back to 1/16 and while it welds great for thin wall fillets, was just not quite the ticket for the 90 degree butt of the tubing. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks! Attached Images
Reply:Looks GREAT!! wish i had room for one like that,my welding table is the top off an old commercial fry stove maybe 36w by 22deep.They made a lot of bacon with it Victor SuperRanger O/A Solar migLincoln Powermig 140Southbend 9in lathe350# kohlswa anvilMiller Maxstar 150 stl etc....
Reply:Originally Posted by elvergonLooks like a great table!Size is great and the welds look pretty good too...what projects do you usually build? What machine are you using?
Reply:Originally Posted by Jasondt2001Lookin nice! You have me drooling, I can't afford something that big or else I'd have one just like that! It does look like it's quite a heavy duty taking, and I think that table will handle more than you'll ever through at it.
Reply:Originally Posted by kshellrazorThree More:where the tubing starts to round, it leaves a gap, and I was having problems burning off the edge and left a little undercut.....Any advice on tubing when it butts up at 90 degrees? Do I need to make two passes? The problem is it takes quite a bit of filler for the gap where the tubing starts to round. Do I focus my heat on the non-edge and try to bring it into the edge? Or do I just need to run cooler and make a root pass, then a final pass? I tried using 3/32 rod, but the tubing is only .083 thousandths, and that rod was a little too much for that, and did not want to burn into the pool at the low amperage. I went back to 1/16 and while it welds great for thin wall fillets, was just not quite the ticket for the 90 degree butt of the tubing. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloThat sounds like the best bet. I weld the boat molds with 2x2 tube, .120. And we get 2 types of tube, one has almost square edges, the other has very rounded corners. I get bent with that, because even the mig welder has to add extra filler on those seams. What a nice looking table frame. Good job! Paul.
Reply:Originally Posted by kshellrazorTable I am currently working on. 2x2 tube. .083 wall, tigged. Modified version of the table on Miller's web site. They used 1/8 inch wall, but my design uses more support, and I am not going to be using it for anything crazy, even though I think it could handle a good load and take a fair beating. I see so many things over built, and I just need it to serve my purpose as I don't weld for a living. Tubing, even thin wall is incredibly strong if it is built right in my opinion. Still need the 5-6 inch HD casters and 3/8 - 1/2 inch top. ($$$$$). Table is 4 foot by 7 foot.Pics:
Reply:Eventually, you'll probably find yourself tacking down a piece to the table top for bending or squaring up a project. don't worry, you can grind off the burrs &fill in craters with weld & re-grind. At first , you won't want to do that , but later ,you'll see the necessity & say "what the heck !".[SIZE="5"Yardbird"
Reply:Oh man! that's a great looking table, the only issue I see is that the cutting grate is a little small for my taste and the slats could be hard to replace. The table should be plenty beefy for what you're planning on doing, not sure I'd put a whole chassis on there with the .083 tubing, but for moto and Jeep parts you're set. Definitly go as thick as possible on the top, I use a piece of .250 plate, mainly because I have to lift it and move it around t be stored verticaly, but when I finaly have room to make a stationary table it's goig to be 3/4" so I can beat the snot out of it.
Reply:Originally Posted by maxyedorOh man! that's a great looking table, the only issue I see is that the cutting grate is a little small for my taste and the slats could be hard to replace. The table should be plenty beefy for what you're planning on doing, not sure I'd put a whole chassis on there with the .083 tubing, but for moto and Jeep parts you're set. Definitly go as thick as possible on the top, I use a piece of .250 plate, mainly because I have to lift it and move it around t be stored verticaly, but when I finaly have room to make a stationary table it's goig to be 3/4" so I can beat the snot out of it.
Reply:good job. i like how you thought ahead and made it tall enough to slide the stool under (i usually forget those things and make it 1/2" too short. lol). it would have been nice to see it a little taller for comfort so you can sit up a little straighter and still have room between the stool and the top for your legs. good job tho. looks super strong.Later,Andy
Reply:How strong?Even at 0.083 wall tubing, that table will be dang strong. You table top sagging would be a weak point, or the possible casters.Seriously, for a pure straight vertical load and NO side loadings or eccentricity, your table legs would support over a ton. But, and it's a BIG but, side loadings (from whatever source, including weld cooling stresses) can quickly drop your safety factor from > 10 to 1.5.Watch out for side loading on that table!!! Pushing or pulling sideways could/would be BAD for that thin wall tubing.Want to stiffen and beef up the table against side loads or loadings? Skin the exterior of the frame with steel and weld it to the frame as a sheer skin.
Reply:Originally Posted by MoonRiseHow strong?Want to stiffen and beef up the table against side loads or loadings? Skin the exterior of the frame with steel and weld it to the frame as a sheer skin.
Reply:Nice!What ya gonna do if you come across a $60 3'11"x6'10" x1/2" plate?A man who can't weld is as poorly educated as a woman who can't sew
Reply:Originally Posted by aczellergood job. i like how you thought ahead and made it tall enough to slide the stool under (i usually forget those things and make it 1/2" too short. lol). it would have been nice to see it a little taller for comfort so you can sit up a little straighter and still have room between the stool and the top for your legs. good job tho. looks super strong.Later,Andy
Reply:Originally Posted by woofNice!What ya gonna do if you come across a $60 3'11"x6'10" x1/2" plate?
Reply:Originally Posted by maxyedorOh man! that's a great looking table, the only issue I see is that the cutting grate is a little small for my taste and the slats could be hard to replace. The table should be plenty beefy for what you're planning on doing, not sure I'd put a whole chassis on there with the .083 tubing, but for moto and Jeep parts you're set. Definitly go as thick as possible on the top, I use a piece of .250 plate, mainly because I have to lift it and move it around t be stored verticaly, but when I finaly have room to make a stationary table it's goig to be 3/4" so I can beat the snot out of it.
Reply:That table should last for a few years....Last edited by little Jeep; 01-06-2008 at 06:28 PM.Qualified & experienced at welding scrap metal |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:24:17