tig welding a T joint on aluminum

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having abig problem getting both pieces to puddle and accept the filler rod at the same time. The weld looks really bad, and there is no fusion, I am a beginner can anyone help with some  advice.. R.Himes
Reply:there's a good description/drawing of torch and filler rod angles for various joints here:http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/gtawbook.pdfAsad
Reply:The hardest part about T joints is getting the puddle started. A trick I use is melt off a small piece of filler into the joint and heat until both pieces wet down with the filler. Just make sure that your piece melted of filler penetrates to the root at least. You can tell that when the puddle starts to drop into the joint. Good luck.AaronTiggerAaronHTP Invertig 201w/ CK-20 torch and Bernard ChillerHTP MicroCut 300 plasma cutterLincoln R3S-325 w/ TA 17A Wire FeederVictor Super Range II O/A kitClausing/Colchester 13X40 LatheBridgeport 9X42 Mill
Reply:i have welded a lot of aluminium pipe and plate the trick is to make sure the aluminium is clean that is important thin if it is thick you need to pre heat it and if you dont have a foot control to let you control the heat it is very important . there are alot of tricks but being clean and heat are the main ones   if your heat is wright then it flows like butter i mean real soft if it is getting alot of trash and black stuff in it , it is dirty and it well never weld goodLast edited by ITISMICHAEL; 07-22-2004 at 10:54 PM.
Reply:thanks alot , I am new so I am sure I will have alot more questions.R.Himes
Reply:Originally posted by TiggerAaron The hardest part about T joints is getting the puddle started. A trick I use is melt off a small piece of filler into the joint and heat until both pieces wet down with the filler. Just make sure that your piece melted of filler penetrates to the root at least. You can tell that when the puddle starts to drop into the joint. Good luck.Aaron
Reply:Originally posted by asad there's a good description/drawing of torch and filler rod angles for various joints here:http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/gtawbook.pdfAsad
Reply:i understand that green band is what you want.97 S10 excab, VORTECH supercharger, fmic.a broken down 13.8 @ 97Lincoln SP135 PLUS
Reply:From the above link, the pages numbered 12-13 say otherwise, but I'm all ears...TOOLandFAB.com See our Articles and Member Writeups and Tool Review Sections
Reply:jdc posted on 8-13, which sounded like a reasonable explination:"The tungsten type is very much machine depend now days. In the past pure tungsten, (green),was used pretty much exclusive for aluminum and thoriated, (red), for every thing else. I tended to like zirconium for AL. However with the advent of the switching power supplies, (inverters), one electrode can be used in different operating settings, (ac/dc), hence different materials. I personally like the lanthanated stuff. For under 120 amps or so it just seems to perform and hold up the best with my machine. I use it for both AL and mild steel."Common sense in an uncommon degree is what the world calls wisdom.