Aluminum fender

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This trailer burned up.  The owner asked me to repair the fender.Just a melted holePatchZzzzzip with the plasma.  I didn't even draw a line.Clean BOTH sides  I used a new aluminum disk on my 4.5" grinder.Last edited by David R; 01-15-2008 at 06:29 PM.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Weld in perfect fit patch.I used 1/8" tungsten, you can see I only changed it once when I dipped where the black spot is.It was still a little dirty, I turned the cleaning up to 50%Outside edgeFlange on back sideBack of weldTA Arcmaster 185...125 amps max, pure argon, 1/8" 5356 filler..up to 50% wave balance  1/8" cerated...Orange.I started at just over 100Hz, but the bead was narrow and tall, so I turned it down to 75.  Worked better for me.DavidI leaned a lot of this here.Last edited by David R; 01-15-2008 at 06:31 PM.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Looks good! Myself..I'd go over the backside too and then call it a day.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Nice job Mr. R, and not knocking your skills, but why does the back side of the weld look like it didnt fuse?Miller Syncrowave 200Hobart Handler 140Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38E-Z Tube BenderPlasma Cam DHC2
Reply:I started on the right. Went about an inch or two and couldn't get full penetration, so I made some adjustments to the machine.  As I went along, I could see the edges of both plates melt, I sort of had a keyhole  Then I dipped the electrode...changed it.... and started again.  You can see from both sides where I stopped and started twice.   Other than those 2 places, there is sort of a bead on the back side.  Any hotter and I would have had a shiny floor. Knock away....DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Not hijacking here Mr. R, I just have to pose the same question to maybe Zap, because I seem to have a similar problem at times with aluminum sheet. Is there a way to get good fusion throughout the entire weld without burning all the way through? Mild steel usually turns out great, good fusion throughout,  but have noticed the same problem in the past with my aluminum. I get great fusion at the puddle, but the backsdie tends to look like two seperate beads that touch eachother as if they wanted to fuse, but just didnt. Call it a line all the way through the backside of the bead. What is the fix? Anyone?Miller Syncrowave 200Hobart Handler 140Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38E-Z Tube BenderPlasma Cam DHC2
Reply:i would do the back side too ,but it still looks goodChuckASME Pressure Vessel welder
Reply:Qucifer, I see your point.  I saw a good weld on top, its l/8 or less plate, so I wasn't worried about the other side. I would take a better look, but the part is gone.....  I have some scrap, I 'll do another piece tomorrow.  Same settings.  More PICS! Almost no gap on the right, almost 1/8" gap on the left.DavidLast edited by David R; 01-15-2008 at 08:56 PM.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:It is easy to get complete penetration on a butt joint if you leave a decent back and use a backer clamped on. I usually use SS. Then just put the heat to it. Try a demo if that will you dave. Leave a good 1/8" gap. --Gol'
Reply:go1lum, are you saying that in order to get the back side of the weld to fuse on aluminum, I would have to use a backing plate? What about in situations where a backing plate wouldnt work like if you are building a tank, or a box? Mr. R said he is going to do some practice on some sheet and post pics, I think I might do the same. I really want to correct this problem.Miller Syncrowave 200Hobart Handler 140Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38E-Z Tube BenderPlasma Cam DHC2
Reply:Uhhhh.......why didn't you use treadplate?DewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:Originally Posted by Qucifergo1lum, are you saying that in order to get the back side of the weld to fuse on aluminum, I would have to use a backing plate? What about in situations where a backing plate wouldnt work like if you are building a tank, or a box? Mr. R said he is going to do some practice on some sheet and post pics, I think I might do the same. I really want to correct this problem.
Reply:Littlefuzz,  I HAD a piece of 1/8" plate aluminum in the shop.  Customer said "nice job".   I did some testing today.  Had a blast....got pictures.  I will put them up later tonight.  DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:That weld would have taken about 45 seconds with pulse mig.We do a lot of 1/8" aluminum treadplate with pulse mig- once it's set just right, it will look almost like tig.
Reply:I guess if that's how the customer wants it that's all that matters, right?DewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:Originally Posted by turboblownThat weld would have taken about 45 seconds with pulse mig.We do a lot of 1/8" aluminum treadplate with pulse mig- once it's set just right, it will look almost like tig.
Reply:Go for it! You'll love spray and pulse MIG on aluminum, especially when you have to run a lot of bead. When somewhere not seen (like inside the walls of a truck body or undercarriage), I don't use pulse. I' just run straight DC spray transfer to make time. It's tough to keep up with the gun on 3/16"- you move really fast! Like I said, once you get it all dialed in, you'll get a nice shiny bead. In fact, once you learn how to do it, you'll find that you only need to clean the work mildly before welding.  I use .030" on 1/8" and under and 3/64" on anything larger.
Reply:Originally Posted by QuciferNot hijacking here Mr. R, I just have to pose the same question to maybe Zap, because I seem to have a similar problem at times with aluminum sheet. Is there a way to get good fusion throughout the entire weld without burning all the way through? Mild steel usually turns out great, good fusion throughout,  but have noticed the same problem in the past with my aluminum. I get great fusion at the puddle, but the backsdie tends to look like two seperate beads that touch eachother as if they wanted to fuse, but just didnt. Call it a line all the way through the backside of the bead. What is the fix? Anyone?
Reply:the 'line' is nothing to worry about provided it can't be felt. if there's any suckback (creating a minature pair of butt cheeks) in the root then it may crack when subjected to a proper bend test
Reply:how do you keep from getting the butt cheeks at the root?Miller Syncrowave 200Hobart Handler 140Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38E-Z Tube BenderPlasma Cam DHC2
Reply:skill  i welded some coupons today while waiting for a casting to preheat. i'll start a new thread when i've resized them
Reply:Originally Posted by turboblownGo for it! You'll love spray and pulse MIG on aluminum, especially when you have to run a lot of bead. When somewhere not seen (like inside the walls of a truck body or undercarriage), I don't use pulse. I' just run straight DC spray transfer to make time. It's tough to keep up with the gun on 3/16"- you move really fast! Like I said, once you get it all dialed in, you'll get a nice shiny bead. In fact, once you learn how to do it, you'll find that you only need to clean the work mildly before welding.  I use .030" on 1/8" and under and 3/64" on anything larger.