Easy bike lock bracket

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I made this quick and easy bracket to lock up my lovely 1977 Honda xl 350 road and trail bike. Even though its sitting in a locked shed you can't go wrong with protecting it even more.Two pieces of 3/16 thick steel drilled out for the bolting hole and lock holeTacked togetherwelded upbackside welded and grinded smooth
Reply:All painted upThis is what it bolts too on the inside of the shed since it runs all the way throughBolted upFinished and locked up
Reply:Ill get a full pic of the bike up. I fully restored it and did a topend rebuild on the engine too.
Reply:Pic of the bike
Reply:I would tack weld the bolt and nut together.  a little more security.
Reply:Nice little bracket.But if a bolt cutter gets the crook into your shed, it will get him through that modest chain as well.  Or you may open the shed only to find a front wheel chained to the bracket.
Reply:Nice bike!  Drum brakes front and rear!David Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Pulser: Yea i agree, but if i would happen to leave my shed unlocked for the day and someone wonders down my driveway and looks in it, they wont get it casue its locked up. I doubt someone would carry a whole tool set with them when breaking into things(who knows though). That front wheel is a pain to get off and by the time someone would be in there that long getting it off he would probably end up getting caught. It just makes me feel alittle safer that its locked up in the shed.David: Thanks, they stop really good for being front and rear drum brakes, i am pretty amazed how well they stop.
Reply:I'd weld the nut too.  Let em know you are serious.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by welderShanePulser: I doubt someone would carry a whole tool set with them when breaking into things
Reply:Great idea, anything to slow down and deter the theifs...nice bike too
Reply:Sweet setup!!Have a Jeep Cherokee?  Click Here!
Reply:i once locked up my torch and welder with a lock and chain then my freind asked me if a torch would cut the chain or the lock so i built a shop to go around it...lol
Reply:that XL is pretty clean, you need to ride it.
Reply:Nice bike!!MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Thanks guys. All i need is a kick starter. I have to push start it right now. Its a blast to ride though. Hopefully soon i will be putting it on the road once i add the mirrors, brake light, and turn signals. I have been riding it on my trails right now. Still fun though
Reply:If you are looking to slow down a thief, why not get a U-lock for the wheel to go through the spokes and around the forks.  It wouldn't take anything to cut that chain and wheel the right out of the shed and down the road.  at least the u-lock would make it tough to move the bike, chain or not.
Reply:Yea i agree but this bike has a parking lock on the head tube that locks the front end to the left or right. So there would be no way to ride it because it would just turn in the direction it is locked.Shane
Reply:It sucks that you have to secure everything under the sun.  You should be how I secured my shop!Couple of tips:  1) if someone is intent on ripping-off the bike, they'll cut the chain  2) get some MUCH thicker chain  3) weave the chain thru the frame instead of the wheelMy winter project from last year was restoring my KZ650.  I bought it brand new in 1979.  It sat in my parent's garage since '88.  I went thru it from end-to-end and it now runs great and still looks new!I'll give you a tip about bike restorations, too (not trying to be a know-it-all but this really helped me a LOT!).  The ignition systems on a lot of these old bikes suffer in inadequate voltage.  This is due to resistence build-up at the key switch and the kill switch - remember, these systems are only 12 volts.  It will cause the bike run rough or surge which may make you think the carb/s need to be cleaned and/or rebuilt.  Before you go to that trouble, check the voltage at the coils.  It should be at least 12 volts (probably more like 13).  If not, you know what the problems is.Now, here's what I did to fix mine.  1st, I got rid of the points and condensors and replaced them with a Dyna electronic ignition.  Next, I purcased a standard automotive (bosh type) relay from Autozone.  I wired it  between the battery and the coils so that the coils are pulling power directly from the battery.  The relay is activated by the line that previously ran to (powered) the coils since the relay is not sensitive to under voltage conditions.  This modification does not require any changes to the key or kill switch and both are still fully functional.This modification made ALL THE DIFFERENCE IN THE WORLD IN HOW MY BIKE RUNS.If you have any questions, feel free to e-mail me.Doug
Reply:Oh yea (DUH-I almost left out the most important suggestion), I agree that you should weld the nut or use a different method to attach the bracket.Doug
Reply:Shane,I just read your last reply.That parking lock is real easy to shear with a hard jerk on the handle bars.Doug
Reply:I learned to ride on dirt with a 72' XL250.  Then I upgraded to a 74' XL250 with a stroker kit.  You could idle up 10 degree hills with that kit.  Neither of which looked as nice as that one.  I remember those wern't very forgiving bikes when it came to crash time.Common sense in an uncommon degree is what the world calls wisdom.
Reply:Doug thanks for the tips i really appriciate it. The thing with this bike is that it uses a 6volt battery instead of the 12. I was also looking around and a guy that sells parts for xl's has a 412 big bore kit for my bike. So going from 350 to 412 would be sweet. He sells the whole kit for 200.00. I just need to get the cyclender bored out? Where should i take it to, to bore it? Probably a engine performance shop. Or could i take it to a machine shop? (theres a machine shop right near my house) Im not sure if all machine shops bore engines though?
Reply:Originally Posted by welderShaneDoug thanks for the tips i really appriciate it. The thing with this bike is that it uses a 6volt battery instead of the 12. I was also looking around and a guy that sells parts for xl's has a 412 big bore kit for my bike. So going from 350 to 412 would be sweet. He sells the whole kit for 200.00. I just need to get the cyclender bored out? Where should i take it to, to bore it? Probably a engine performance shop. Or could i take it to a machine shop? (theres a machine shop right near my house) Im not sure if all machine shops bore engines though?
Reply:Yea im not certain i am going to bore it. It was just a thought that came to my mind when i saw that kit. I would'nt mind the extra power thoughPut this on the shop door...Me!
Reply:You can have it bored out at a mechine shop but just make sure that the one you pick is experienced in engine work (e.g. bore and hone).  Not all machine shops do engine work.As to whether you should do it or not.......engines are a balance between performance and dependability/realiability.  Take that into consideration.  Persionally, as long as it's running good, I wouldn't do it.6 volt electrical system?  My solution will still work as long as the realy is 6 volt.  I would imagine a 6 volt system would be even worse.  Check the voltage at the coil/s.Doug