Snow Plow Rehab

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I've got to fix up this old plow and adapt it to my fathers tractor.  For starters I have to get the skin off the moldboard.  It is junk.  What is the best way to get it off?  I don't have a torch or plasma cutter.  But I probably should.  Thanks, Nick. Attached Images
Reply:Looks like you will b getting intimate with a cut-off wheel and/or grinder.
Reply:I've already spent some time at it with a grinder and sawzall.  Very slow.  In a perfect world what would be the best way to get it off?
Reply:Plasma or O/A...possibly buy a new plow. Remind us again why you're trying to put on a new skin? It would be easier to patch "low spots" or the small bad areas. Fill 'em with some wire or stick.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:I vote a new plow. Or something slightly used.Patriot Performance AutoLincoln Power Mig 255CLincoln AC-225 StickVictor Journeyman O/AQuincy QT-5 Compressor
Reply:I've done a couple repairs like that.  There's not so much wrong with that skin that it can't be salvaged easier than replacing it.  If you have actual holes I would start by making a template out of heavy paper, cut to cover the hole.  Lay that on the plow and scribe around the template, then cut as close to the line as you can with a cutoff disc on a grinder.  Cut your patch using the same template and the same method, the patch should then fit with minimal trimming.  Tack the patch in on one straight side and with clamps, plate dogs, BFH, tease it into the shape of the curve.  Tack as you go.  Once it is fitted and tacked you may want to grind a slight groove along the front of the joint.  That way you can weld it in and be able to grind it flush without worrying about grinding through your weld if you got a little light on penetration.  If you don't/can't get full penetration from the front lay a bead on the back as well, no need to dress it off on the back.
Reply:I know the plow is pretty much junk and that I will put way more work into it than it is worth.  But my dad bought it a few years ago and he isn't going to go another route.  So I look at it as a way to practice my welding and grinding technique.  I want to remove the skin because alot of it is rusting away and I want to expose the inside face of the angle on the moldboard to see what kind of shape it is in.  I want to add a few more supports and bracing on the plow frame and use a piece of lexan for the skin instead of the steel.  I'm trying to get the skin off and then get it sand blasted so I know what I've got.  I think I may end up getting a O/A torch so I can cut off some stuff that the grinder and sawzall can't get at.  I'll take some better pics of the rest of the rust.
Reply:NIck:     Go see Steve at Speedway Welding in Glouster Ma.  He will set you up with an o/A setup.
Reply:I was just there today getting grinding wheels.  I saw that he had a small torch setup.  Might have to check it out.  I would really prefer a plama cutter, but it is way more money, and a O/A torch is more versatile.
Reply:are you any good with carbon arc gouging?
Reply:Never tried carbon arc gouging and I don't have the equipment or knowledge.Last edited by Nick Kent; 12-29-2007 at 11:36 PM.
Reply:Its not really hard all you need is some good lota air and an air gouging whip. You gotta also use a pretty good size cc welder.
Reply:I could gouge with a plasma cutter though too, can't I?
Reply:Nick, if you feel like loading that in your truck and coming down to Plymouth, I will cut it apart for you.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Tozzi, thanks for the offer.  I think I'll just tough it out around here though.  I'll get it eventually.
Reply:Plasmas are nice, very nice, but you just can't beat the O/A as an all around utility tool. Get one.
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyPlasmas are nice, very nice, but you just can't beat the O/A as an all around utility tool. Get one.
Reply:How about using a torch and shaving the old beads off I've done that in the past.....or did I not read the whole post...
Reply:Originally Posted by infroHow about using a torch and shaving the old beads off I've done that in the past.....or did I not read the whole post...
Reply:Scarfing tip On a Oxy/Acet rig is the way I'd go.   But I have it at my disposal.    Standard torch tip is a lot harder to keep from cutting into the base metal you want to save.
Reply:Well, this has turned into quite a project for me.  I got the skin off with some grinding, sawzalling, and cutting with torch.  Just got the frame back from sandblasting today.  It is worse than I thought.  I will take some pictures and post them.  Just about all welds are contaminated and some are cracked.  Real nightmare for me.  Got a good "I told you so" for my dad later on.
Reply:When you get the new skin rolled, have them roll it just a little small.  Its MUCH easier to clamp the ends to make it fit than trying to get the middle to fit.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:It's getting a lexan skin.  No steel.  I'll have to beef the frame up though to make up for strength lost from not having the steel skin.  It will be much easier to maintain and keep rust off with the lexan.
Reply:Here are some pics of the frame after sandblasting.  Can't believe all the work that is going to go into this thing to get it functional. Attached Images
Reply:And again. Attached ImagesOriginally Posted by Nick KentIt's getting a lexan skin.  No steel.  I'll have to beef the frame up though to make up for strength lost from not having the steel skin.  It will be much easier to maintain and keep rust off with the lexan.
Reply:Amazing that plow held together as long as it did with those welds. John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:are those FACTORY welds???? (never mind went back and re-read your earlier post)  if they are who makes that plow???can anybody say QA inspection, almost looks like they forgot to turn the gas on when they were welding.oh well, lots of practice welding and more practice grinding.will be interesting to see the lexan skin and how it holds up.what does this plow go on?G3miller... 225g, s32p, 250x, 304, 12vs, MSW41     victor o/a thermal dynamics cutmaster 50 lenco panel spotter        hobart hf-boxG3 Farms.....raising cattle, hay, kids and hell, ...oh yeah I'm a fire sprinkler contractor by trade.
Reply:You should see the factory welds on a Marathon trash compactor, and they are rated at 53,000psi on the data plateDisclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Originally Posted by MicroZoneAmazing that plow held together as long as it did with those welds.
Reply:I can't help thinking that maybe over time rust really took a toll on the welds.  But all that porosity wouldn't really be there.  Just crummy welds.  I am very familiar with Snoway plows as that is what I have on my truck.  It is going to be a bit of a hassle to get a piece of lexan to fit, but I think it will be better in the long run.  Question.  Can I just weld right on the sandblasted metal or should I clean it off by grinding before I weld?  This plow is going to mount on the front end loader of a 28 hp diesel tractor.  This is a bigger project than I had thought it was going to be.  Since I will be reinforcing the frame for the lexan can I just run horizontal bracing (easiest) or should I run vertical/ diagonal bracing to reinforce the plow?  Thanks, Nick.