Wood boiler

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This is a wood boiler that I am working on. Currently, it is successfully heating my house. Overall, it is more efficient that I had expected. It is made from t3/16" steel sheet with t3/16" x 1.5" x 1.5" ERW tubing for the water jackets. The door has been reinforced with a t1" plate. I have added fiberglass insulation within the 3" web on the top and sides. A sheet metal shop is fabricating covers for me now. I will post an update once they are installed. The steel was purchased as scrap for $0.10/lb for a total of $128. I have another $50 into fire bricks and $200 into plumbing. Not a bad investment seeing as I expect to save about $1100 this winter in fuel.
Reply:I built a woodburner similar to that. I have the flue coming out of the top just like yours and it's a bittch to clean the buildup out of the top of the heat exchanger even when you remove the flue. If I burn certain types of wood, it will kick back some flame through the air inlet (it wants more air). Is the air inlet in the door? I did mine there and now see that I should have made it up higher above the door to let the air flow downward across the door opening to keep smoke to a minimum when the door is opened. I have 13 metal tubes going through the fire box that has forced air blowing through. It keeps a 2500 sq.ft. shop at 64 degrees no problem during a Pennsylvania winter. Overall, it's efficient for my first one. Other than that, looks good...right down to the plumbing maze!
Reply:Looks great. I see more and more people turning to alternative heating. Myself, I acquired a corn stove this year and I've already saved over $1600...just heating my house. My big shop will probably see either a wood, coal or another corn stove.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Originally Posted by turboblownI built a woodburner similar to that. I have the flue coming out of the top just like yours and it's a bittch to clean the buildup out of the top of the heat exchanger even when you remove the flue. If I burn certain types of wood, it will kick back some flame through the air inlet (it wants more air). Is the air inlet in the door? I did mine there and now see that I should have made it up higher above the door to let the air flow downward across the door opening to keep smoke to a minimum when the door is opened. I have 13 metal tubes going through the fire box that has forced air blowing through. It keeps a 2500 sq.ft. shop at 64 degrees no problem during a Pennsylvania winter. Overall, it's efficient for my first one. Other than that, looks good...right down to the plumbing maze!
Reply:How does boiling wood make a house warm?......Just kidding, looks great! Always good to produce something both functional and penny-saving.
Reply:Super Nifty!On the subject of wood burners: This year I plumbed a fresh air intake into mine from outside and regulated it with a 2" ball valve. I have an older house built in the 30's, and I noticed appreciably less draftiness with it, and  I am using less wood. That 8" flue has got to suck all that air from somewhere right? Better than thru the gaps around the windows, etc. I think alot of old stoves could be modified like this. Good welding project.
Reply:I would agree with Jarret - you would be able to save drafts if you modified that with a dedicated fresh air inletPlus if you ever start to seal up that house you will start to starve the wood burner for oxygen.Make sure you have a CO detector between that boiler and your sleeping roomsDave,Mech Engineer
Reply:Hey - like what you're doing there!  I have an old coal converted to gas boiler and would like to do something as an alternative or back up.  The thing costs a bloody $$$ fortune for heating.  Where can I find more information on this?
Reply:Originally Posted by kbloomHey - like what you're doing there!  I have an old coal converted to gas boiler and would like to do something as an alternative or back up.  The thing costs a bloody $$$ fortune for heating.  Where can I find more information on this?
Reply:Good info!! I went down this road actually when we installed a gas fire place a few years ago.  Not only did it have to be UL it had to be either installed by a certified plumber or inspected by one for the sake of insurance.  This was to verify it was properly installed.  We actually stumbled across this by accident when we had a conversation with another.  Always check local codes and insurance.
Reply:build your  stove outside and  leave it there..pipe  the  hot  water to the  house....i am told  the only  requirement for insurance is  it  must  be  60 feet  from the house (i am not  certain on this) or  like  me  ..i put  mine in a little  shed  with the wood  pile  beside it...it is not  insured...for  the  price of  it  i will take my chances..lol