7014 Uphill

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ran these on 98 amps 1/8''.  kinda at a 45 degree uphill.  better not give up my day job yet.any input would be great.  i think i am stepping up to far on my weave, maybe half as much would make a smoother bead.
Reply:Yer Gettin it!    Just more practice.......David  Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:do ya think i am moving the puddle to far up when i bring it across the middle?
Reply:You are really close, experiment with the weave and the heat just a little. Find out what works for you.  Burn some more rod.......DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by tortisdo ya think i am moving the puddle to far up when i bring it across the middle?
Reply:try 90 amps and angle of 15 degrees instead of 45.don't give up buddy, I'm just now starting to get the hand of it.Guy_48Welding is an art......Millermatic 252Lincoln SP175PlusLincoln 225 AC/DC
Reply:Looks like your running a little cold, and to fast on the side to side. Try a little more heat, and slow it down some.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:your amps are fine, I wouldnt go any higher than 110 for 7014 1/8 vertical. Its your weave. You are moving up way to much. Move up about 1/16 at a time.  I have to go out to my rig shortly I only have 1/16 7014 but I"ll do a 6010 vertical up to show you how tight to make it. That is your weave in yellowTry going this tight. And do not pause too long at the sides. If you are going up tight enough there is no need
Reply:Originally Posted by Guy_48try 90 amps and angle of 15 degrees instead of 45.don't give up buddy, I'm just now starting to get the hand of it.
Reply:i start out at 120 amps, but the plate heats up, and i leave under cut.  when the slag is curling up, doesn't that mean the heat is about right.  i'll tighten up my weave tomorrow,and post pics.  thanks for the tips. robert
Reply:To get rid of the undercut, pause more at the sides. Watch it fill, then move on just before it is going to run.   Undercut is from technique.  (its the operator)  Also, the book sez move back into the puddle before moving up.  give that a try too.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:It helps to distinguish between undercut and underfill, they look alike.  If I run too hot, I can never get rid of undercut.  Thus, I run on the low end amps and I can control underfill by pause on the side.  I think amp are okay.  Pause at the sides and tighten it up.  You can see the puddle following the rod as you whip across he middle.  Also, get in position so the end of the rod is pointing at the plate.  I used to favor one side end up with the side of the rod against the metal.  You can also see the weld solidify on the shelf.Anyway all welds (other thread included) look pretty good.  Have fun.
Reply:here is an idea of how tight to make it. Done vertical up with 6010, 3 pass fillet followed by a weaved cap. 115-130 is the ideal range for a 1/8 7014 rod in flat, horizontal and overhead, but remember that for vertical you use 10-15% less amps. Your heat is rising up through your metal preheating it ahead of you. Too much amps and you get undercut, a drooping bead. You ran 120 amps and seen for yourself what too much amps on a vertical weld does. You got the idea, just need practice a bit to refine your technique. Once you get your technique down then you can start upping your amps and just travel faster.
Reply:Originally Posted by westcoast welderhere is an idea of how tight to make it. Done vertical up with 6010, 3 pass fillet followed by a weaved cap. 115-130 is the ideal range for a 1/8 7014 rod in flat, horizontal and overhead, but remember that for vertical you use 10-15% less amps. Your heat is rising up through your metal preheating it ahead of you. Too much amps and you get undercut, a drooping bead. You ran 120 amps and seen for yourself what too much amps on a vertical weld does. You got the idea, just need practice a bit to refine your technique. Once you get your technique down then you can start upping your amps and just travel faster.
Reply:looking good .side to side pause for about 2 sec.s move across the middle do not stay in the middle or your puddle will sag .before you move from side to side  just step up a little bit come back to where you were and move
Reply:also remember what kind of rod you are using. 7014 is the same type of rod as a 7024 jet rod, with the exception that 7014 is a all position rod and 7024 is flat / horizontal. That means you have to travel faster than say a 7018 rod or else you will get slag rollover. They are both high deposition rods used in production.you can see that the slag was catching up with you in the void here. it just started to roll over on you. Faster speed and tighter weave and you'll have it. 7014 is a great general purpose rod to use once you get the hang of it. Also try practicing at a 90* angle instead of the 45* in the pic, it might be easier.
Reply:i seem to do better with wider beads.  narrow ones are ugly!  these were run with the plate in the same position as yesterday.  the reason i am running this angel is when i used to pipe weld, coming off the bottom was the area of great concentration for me.   what do ya think of these?this one is humped in the middle.  not moving fast enough?
Reply:Wider beads are easier, the metal on the other side has more time to cool.You got it.  You need some time to refine.  Don't be afraid to change the amps up or down a little at a time to see what it does.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:7014 up is a bitch but it is a easy no fuss rod try to up th heat by 10 and hold the rod a little bit further aweaythan normal and you will have great results i useed the same rod for welding common steel rails with a tig apperance and no grinding crank the heat and stay back more and will see great results
Reply:i does seem to flow better when the arc is off the plate maybe a little more than an eighth of an inch.