Stainless Steel Dunk Tank for paint-stripping bicycle frames

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My friend paints a lot of bike frames.  He'd like me to build for him a steel dunk tank that he can put his paint stripper or whatever noxious chemicals he uses for stripping paint off of bicycle frames. What grade of stainless plate and what type of filler rod would be most advisable for this application?  At Lincoln TIG school I heard enough mis-matched stainless horror stories to know that they're not all fit for this job.Regards
Reply:Sandblast them, that's what my powdercoater does.  You will never get all of the solvents out of a bike frame.  Any holes = crappy paint job when the solvent starts leaching out.Buy American, or don't whine when you end up on the bread line.
Reply:304 and 308 filler should be fine. Some of the modern bike frames that are made from high end steels are very thin mid tube (~.020) and dipping them is the only safe way to remove the old paint.
Reply:I'd go 316 and 316 filler if its gonna have some sort of corrosive in it, thats what the stuff is for.
Reply:Originally Posted by SR20steveI'd go 316 and 316 filler if its gonna have some sort of corrosive in it, thats what the stuff is for.
Reply:316 is expensive, and still prone to chloride corrosion cracking (although less so).I'm not sure stainless is even a good idea in this application.  It depends on what solvents you're talking about.
Reply:Originally Posted by rlitman316 is expensive, and still prone to chloride corrosion cracking (although less so).I'm not sure stainless is even a good idea in this application.  It depends on what solvents you're talking about.
Reply:Do it right and spend a few extra bucks.....
Reply:Some of the modern bike frames that are made from high end steels are very thin mid tube (~.020) and dipping them is the only safe way to remove the old paint.
Reply:Media comparison:http://www.kramerindustriesonline.co...ison-chart.htm
Reply:Not sure if it would work for your application - Ive built a number of hot bluing tank sets which are normally  fiberglass and stainless (for separate operations)  after busting the fiberglass ones and not being set up to TIG new stainless ones I hit on a more cost effective redneck solution.Build them out of mild steel, prime them - then have them rhino lined.  There are a variety of spray on coatings suitable for nearly any chemical environment.