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Gas Welding Newby Questions

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发表于 2021-9-1 00:20:44 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Been lurking here as a guest for about a week and have learned a fair amount already.I'm new to welding and have a few questions that I'm hoping folks here can answer.  I just bought a O/A outfit, a Smith Toughcut, because of the versatility.  I'm looking for a place on the internet where I can get MW and MC cutting tips, specifically MW205, MW208 and MC12-2.  I would have gotten them from the local welding store but they were out.My second question has to do with adjusting the flame.  I picked up a copy of Finch's Welder's Handbook and have read through it and the manual, but still seem to be having trouble getting a good nuetral flame.  It sounds easy, but neither the book nor the manual have any good pictures.  Is there someplace on the internet where I can find good pictures of lean, rich and nuetral flames?I suspect part of the problem may also be with adjusting the gas pressures.  The manual says to use 10 PSIG each for the MW203 tip, but the book I have and some other places on the web I've found through this board indicate a much lower pressure of 3 to 5 PSIG.  Which is right?That enough for now.TIA.
Reply:It sounds easy, but neither the book nor the manual have any good pictures. Is there someplace on the internet where I can find good pictures of lean, rich and nuetral flames?
Reply:The manual says to use 10 PSIG each for the MW203 tip, but the book I have and some other places on the web I've found through this board indicate a much lower pressure of 3 to 5 PSIG. Which is right?
Reply:Thank Sandy for the info.  The MW203 tip is for welding/brazing and appears to be about the same as a Victor #0 tip.  Brainfarth's site and the Handbook I have both indicate 3-5 PSIG for that size tip, yet the manual lists 10 PSIG for all their tips up to about the #3 or #4 equivalent.  That's what's got me confused about the gas pressures.The esabna site was useful.  The different flame drawings were interesting, but I'd still like to see some actual color pictures.
Reply:http://www.aussieweld.com.au/product...afety/oxy2.htmI think they have some color pictures of diff flames. If not let me know - am quite sure I have some somewhere on my drive.
Reply:Thanks Cassidy.  That site did have a set of pictures, but the resolution was pretty poor:    I couldn't really see the different parts of the flame.  I guess at this point I'll just need to play with it some more and learn by doing.
Reply:Try this site - got some good piccies from them when I started with OA.  http://www.twi.co.uk/j32k/protected/band_3/jk3.htmlHope that'll do the trick for you.
Reply:Thanks!  Those are quite nice and should be a big help.
Reply:kjm9-   Take advantage of your local library. They should have instructional video tapes on O/A welding that show the various flames and how to adjust for them.Don't hesitate to ask at the desk because they can order them from another branchif necessary.
Reply:That's a good idea dicherry.  I'll have to check the local library.I finally got a chance to really try out my new rig this afternoon.  It's taken awhile because I ended up having to exchange the actylene tank because the valve on the first one was very, very stiff.  I couldn't turn it with the little "key" without a cheater bar.  I used it to cut a few pieces which next I will clean up and attempt to weld back together.  The cuts were not very straight or pretty but practice will help.It took me some fiddling to get the pressures and flame right.  I think the pressures listed in the manual are way too high versus what I've found on the internet and in books.  When I set them like the manual says the flame wants to seperate from the tip with the gas valve <1/4 turn and when I opened the oxy valve it would blow the flame out half the time.  Setting them to the lower numbers makes it a whole lot easier.I look forward to being able to make things out of the scrap on our property.  I've already located an 18-wheeler wheel hub with attached brake drum that will be the basis for a used oil furnace.
Reply:set your regulators to about 5 acetelyne pressure and 5 oxygen pressure and then light your acetelyne and then turn the acetelyne up until the flame starts to feather at the end.. then once you have that flame turn the oxygen up until the inner blue flame is about a quarter of an inch long.. then turn ur acetelyne up until the inner blue flame doesn't seem to be getting any longer and then turn ur oxygen up further so that u get that quarter inch long blue flame... that's a neautral flame
Reply:I set my Smith (with MV 205) at 5 and 5.  Try opening acet. 1/8 turn.  Light torch.  Adjust acet until soot just starts to disappear and flame "feathers."  Slowly add oxygen until the small blue cone forms.  You're ready.  The sound will turn from a quiet flame to a faint hiss.
Reply:Thanks for the info.  I got a chance to practice welding some pieces a week or so ago.  I figured out that 3-5 seemed to work best, versus what the manual suggested.  I checked the collection for our local library and the regional library network and it appears that none of them has any kind of welding videos.  I went ahead a bought a Wall Mountain Company DVD on Oxy-Acetylene Welding from Northern Tool.  I've watched it but haven't had a chance to practice some of the tips from the video yet.Of the 5 sets I welding up 4 broke apart easily mostly due to lack of penetration.  I couldn't break apart the 5th piece, so I suspect I got plenty of penetration on that one.  Forming and moving a puddle went pretty well, except I think I was not letting it get quite hot/deep enough based on the lack of penetration.  Also, dipping the rod in often seemed to "freeze" the puddle for a moment or two.  The video has some tips on judging the heat of the puddle.  Just seeing someone do it well is a help.  More practice to come.
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