Newbie stick questions

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I picked up a 140 amp stick welder at Harbor Freight, and I'm teaching myself- no classes or buddies in the area. I've been able to get a decent bead, nothing I'd want to show anyone yet, but not bad either. I have a couple questions-I'm using a 1/16" 6011 stick on 3/16" mild steel plate, just to practice. Everything I read says the correct amperage should be about 65- but with the welder set at anything less than about 120 I just can't get a spark going- the stick just sticks to the steel. And with the amps set at 120 I get a lot of splatter. Is it really tricky to get going at a lower amp setting, or is 120 a decent setting?Another one- one of the projects I want to do are rock rails for my truck. I'm thinking 2" round pipe, not sure on the wall thickness yet. Can I use the galvanized fence post stuff they sell at Home Depot, or am I better off going to a steel supplier and getting mild steel? The rock rails will need to support the weight of the truck when done.Last edited by mattmcl; 11-08-2004 at 10:20 AM.
Reply:Are you sure those are 1/16" rods?  120 amps is way too much, and is the kind of current you'd use for 1/8" rods.  The over amperage is causing all that splatter.  6011 does splatter, but at 120 amps you are way off the chart.  Either the starting problem is technique or the transformer characteristics (low open circuit voltage), or a combo of the two.  Go back to 60 amps and work on the technique.  Clean the metal with a grinder to remove any surface impurities.  Perhaps consider trying some different rods.  Maybe 3/32".  Try some 6013, it's good for welding on the flat and very easy to use.  7018 AC would be good as well, but if your welder has a low open circuit voltage, you may find it frustrating as well.  I've never tried the AC version, but I hear its made for AC welders that don't have a high enough voltage.
Reply:That's what I thought- thanks. Would you mind explaining open circuit voltage? The welder is wired for 220.
Reply:Open circuit voltage or OCV is the voltage between the terminals on the welder when not conducting current or more precisely when you are not welding. A higher OCV will make hard starting rods easier to start. Try using a scratch techinque, like striking a match when starting an arc, it is much easier than tap starting.TiggerAaronHTP Invertig 201w/ CK-20 torch and Bernard ChillerHTP MicroCut 300 plasma cutterLincoln R3S-325 w/ TA 17A Wire FeederVictor Super Range II O/A kitClausing/Colchester 13X40 LatheBridgeport 9X42 Mill
Reply:get yourself some 5/64 or 3/32 6013 rods and you will have an easier time starting your bead.these rods will run well on your machine.6011s need more voltage to run well. also 7014s should run ok also.but start with 6013s .you will like them and they are really all you need for mild steel.your machine should also run stainless stick rods also.you dont want to buy any to practice with.[costly].just after to get better at welding,you can weld stainless with your machine if you need to.
Reply:Wow. Thanks! I got some 3/32 6013's and it's MUCH easier. With the 6011's I couldn't find that sweet spot in amps where there is not a lot of splatter and the rod didn't just stick.
Reply:galvanized pipe emits a more toxic residue than mild steel. Wear a respirator. Moreso if You are doing alot of welding in a confined space with poor ventilation.
Reply:Bags, is correct - be very careful with galvanized. Couple of weeks ago I was welding some galvy plate in a confined space while wearing a respirator. Still got sick afterwards - the zinc stuck to myc skin.
Reply:7018  its  easier  to use  then  6011!!!
Reply:That machine wont run regular 7018www.urkafarms.com
Reply:on the machine your using your best with 6013 or 7014 or 6011.  7018 on with an AC version.  You can still run it with dc and I would, but there usually designed for the smaller machines.  Galv is nasty.  Used to weld on it in a  manfac plant.  Milk and crackers was to settle upset tummy.  finally gave it up when they told us due to overseas competition they were cutting our pay back and increasing our quotas!  I gave up production and galv welding for good and never looked back.  On occasion I have the need to weld something galv.  Dont worry, 5 mins under the hood wont kill you.  Just dont breathe it in anymore than  you have to.  If you can, I like to hold my breathe, weld as long as I can,  turn my head and lean back and breathe again....works for me  CHRIS
Reply:I started stick welding about a year and a half ago (hobart stickmate AC/DC). I've only used 7018 and 6011. These are the only rods I've found that I need so far. 7018 makes a nice looking bead and doesnt penetrate as much. But restarting a arc can really be a pain. 6011 digs deep but the beads dont look as nice for me. But restarting the arc is a piece of cake. I havent tried 6013... is it worth it? BTW 6010/11 beads can look good but it takes more time and experience. Look at a infamous sberry's weld with 6010.
Reply:6013 is a good rod for thinner stuff.  It has light penetration, but its a pretty weld and it works well.   I dont use it a lot, but the time is right its always nice to have.  It produces a thick easy to remove slag, and is easy to strike.  Its a good rod if you ask me.  I like it with the 3/32 size for anything 1/16" to 1/8"  Good LuckCHRIS
Reply:the spatter may be caused by arc blow.. to reduce arc blow try setting your machine to ac, keeping a close arc and tacking your metal as close to where you're actually welding as possible... also if you didn't know already about preheating with 6010/11 then you should make ur puddle with it then skip ahead about an inch infront of the puddle for about 2 seconds then come back to the puddle and just keep doing that all the way along.. it may not look pretty but it's easier to start that way.
Reply:Greeting! I am new to this site and somehow ended up on this thread so I though I would give some info on 10/11 rods. This class of rod is generally used on less then clean steel surfaces. It is a very aggressive rod and will gouge very fast. The general technique for this rod is to "Whip" the rod. This is what the previous post was describing. Basically you are forming individual puddles by letting the rod melt for a few seconds and then move the rod forward without breaking the arc but long arcing it. You repeat this process making each puddle overlap. Trust me this is a tricky rod to learn with. 7018 and 6013 are great to learn with as you just move them in a steady motion. also get some books and read, read, read. Good luck and welcome to the world of welding!
Reply:I learned to weld in high school and been welding 40 years off and on as a novice, never as a profession.   I get by and can weld okay with my old Lincoln stick welder.  Sure appreciate all the good information I read here on Welding.com and feel confident I'll be getting better with that stick welder with just the knowledge I get from all you folks.  As a little side-bar; I bought a Lincoln MIG Weld-Omatic 250 at a garage sale for 75 bucks (couldn't pass that deal up) a few weeks ago.  It works great! Again, wish I could say the same for the operator.  I'm sure the MIG folks out there will be as helpfull as you all have been. Now to get the experience (practice) with that MIG welder. Thanks to all.
Reply:one little trick to starting your arc is to scratch the end of the rod on the cement floor before you strike the arc. It cleans the end of the rod to fresh bare metal for a quicker start. Also don't give up on that 6011. It is a good all position rod and has excellent penotration. If you want to use the fence post go for it if it's readily available but grind off the galvi plating before you weld it. You can paint right over it........just my .02......