Tips for Spoolmatic 30A

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Gonna be helping a friend build a bridge going from land out to a floating dock, out of aluminum. He's already done all the cutting a fitting and just wants me to weld it up for him. I usually tig all my aluminum, but beings this thing is 24' long, I figure it gives me a chance to actually use my spoolgun. Most of the material is 1/8" min. With some of the support plates being up to 1" thick. I'm using a Miller 250X, with pure Argon. I've used it for little stuff, like patching up a dumpbed, brackets, etc. But never on a real project. I was just wondering if there were any tips, tricks, things to watch out for, etc.Here's a pic of what he's kinda going for.Chainz________O/AMiller 250XMiller SD 180Spoolmatic 30AThermal Dynamics Pak 50and a bunch of other crap......
Reply:Get it dialed in for heat and wfs on some scraps of comparable 1/8" material.  None of that "frying bacon" stuff as with steel but rather more of a hissing sound.  Voltage somewhere in the 24V range and adjust wfs accordingly.  Aluminum MIG is hotter than steel and faster travel speed.Some preheat on the 1" supports would help but will quickly dissipate so I'd turn the heat up even more and focus on the thicker material letting the bead wash over to the 1/8" material.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:i set the volts to whatever the tig calculator says on the miller website and then turn the wire speed up and down while welding on a scrap bit. youll hear it when its right.i also push with a "c" motion to get a nicer looking bead.would also rather tig.G
Reply:Good point - push only.  No drag and hold the gas on for a couple seconds after stoping the arc to prevent sooting.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Thanx for the replies. Having not used it for more than a bead or two, I haven't had time ta really dial it in for much. What it has done has been good. (Notice I gave it credit, and not myself.....  )I definitely prefer tig'in aluminum, but a project of this size.......Well, I don't have that kind of time, nor do I have a water cooled torch.Chainz________O/AMiller 250XMiller SD 180Spoolmatic 30AThermal Dynamics Pak 50and a bunch of other crap......
Reply:Well, we started on the project. Just got it tacked for now, but running a few practice pieces, I noticed the start of the weld had a nice little peak, but still plenty of penetration. As the bead increased, it seemed to get too hot and started flowing into the aluminum, close to burn through. Do I need to increase my speed as I move the bead along? Maybe run the start of the bead a little slower, then increase?The wfs and voltage seems to be ok. I could play with it a little maybe, Any other suggestions?I'll try to get some pics up soon.Chainz________O/AMiller 250XMiller SD 180Spoolmatic 30AThermal Dynamics Pak 50and a bunch of other crap......
Reply:Back step it taking a cool down break between welds.My name's not Jim....
Reply:Well, here's what I've been able ta get outta the spoolgun so far. And here's one of the tig'd faces. Couldn't get my hand steady enough ta make the really pretty welds, but they should live. Last edited by Chainz; 02-05-2011 at 08:24 PM.Chainz________O/AMiller 250XMiller SD 180Spoolmatic 30AThermal Dynamics Pak 50and a bunch of other crap......
Reply:Here's kind of an overall shot. I need a bigger shop.....Sheesh. Chainz________O/AMiller 250XMiller SD 180Spoolmatic 30AThermal Dynamics Pak 50and a bunch of other crap......