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ok i got a miller dynasty 200dx on the way i should have it next thursday or friday. i got some aluminum projects to get done so thats where im starting........so a beginners tig lesson???? i will probably get some steel to start with that to get the feel for it then give it a shot on some al.most of aluminum in this project is 1/8" theres gonna be some thin stuff for decorative but thats later.......what setups for al? gas? machince setup? torch setup? weldrod?what about for mild steel???oh yeah got a miller 30a spool gun for sale now......
Reply:On a tig machine you will use argon for steel stainless and aluminum. You can go with a 4043 or a 5356 depending on what alloy you have to weld probably a 3/32 would be a good choice for the diameter you are talking. You will want to be on DC- for steels and AC for aluminum. Just make sure you do not touch the tungsten to the work piece or you will contaminate it. Get some scrap and play with it. Keep us posted on the progress. Good luck ~JacksonI'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:barebackjake,Get some 1.5% lanthanated tungsten (it's great for the Dynasty). Aglevtech.com DO NOT USE PURE TUNGSTEN FOR ALUMINUM WITH THE DYNASTY!Be sure to use a grinding wheel that is dedicated only to the tungsten. A fine hard wheel is best. Grind a nice taper with a small flat on the end. I use the hand held tungsten grinder from Arczone.com When I started I'd grind the entire pack so that I could just switch tungsten when I dipped into the puddle, and you will dip into the puddle. Stop immediately if you go for a dip. If you continue you will start to burn up the tungsten and your arc quality will be in the toilet. Just make it a habit to change tungsten immediately when you dip into the puddle or touch the tungsten with the filler.For 1/8" set your machine to 150amps and use the foot pedal to control the actually amperage. It becomes more important on aluminum a because as the piece gets hotter from welding you will actually have to back off on the pedal to maintain the bead profile.TIG like clean metal! Seriously! Absolutely no mill scale on steel and you need to use a stainless brush (dedicated to only aluminum) followed by acetone on the aluminum to remove the oxide coating before welding aluminum.Start by running beads with no filler on some 1/8" cold rolled. Once you can see the puddle and control it, you can start adding filler. Continue on by trying lap, fillet and butt welds.The following pics are things that you can try - You can do the triangle first with no filler then with filler. Although this fillet weld is my first attempt with mig you can to the same weld with the tig.Sorry for the long post. You're going to love your new welder!
Reply:THANKS GUYS!!should be here friday i will grab that stuff from the welding shop this week. i didnt know about cleaning the al with the acetone. i have ss brushes that i use for al only i have a spoolgun and was using that but now i have some thinner al coming up that needs to be welded so thats why i jumped on the dynasty. i think i need to unbury the stick welder and get a feel for not sticking it to the work before i fire up the tig. ive gotten really lazy having my millermatic 251i got the fingertip control on my tig due to a pedal is kinda hard to use on a ladder, or in the bucket of a bucket truck. im gonna be working on getting my electrical bussbar certs for an upcoming job in 6 months. im an electrician/lineman by trade and this is on an upcoming contract. already got the argon bottle from the spool gun. just need to get a 80cu for portability. have the 200cu in the shop. how much argon for the aluminum?? and what to run on the mild steel? again argon?ok about the tips?????what is all the diffences between them..?????why no pure tungesten with the dynasty?? just curious?
Reply:barebackjake,Good luck with the finger control. It takes a lot of practice. I'm still all thumbs with mine.99% of the welding done with TIG uses argon as the shielding gas. Sometimes an argon/helium blend is used for added heat input (aluminum only).I use 3/32 tungsten almost all the time. If the material that you are welding is very thin then you can use 1/16 or .040. Not using pure has to do with the inverter technology. I don't know the electronic details but the 1.5% lanthanated works very well with the Dynasty.With aluminum you need to have no contaminants on the surface. The brush breaks up the oxide and the acetone rag gets rid of the residue. Many guys use a scotchbrite pad on the filler followed by a wipe with acetone.With the Dynasty you can use the pulse feature to learn the timing on adding the filler. Set the pulse rate a .9 ppm. It really helps establish a rhythm.With the aluminum set the amps at 125, and the AC frequency at 100 and balance at 70 to start.Remember the Dynasty is a great stick unit also!Download the owers manual - Dynasty Owners Manual If you read through the manual before getting the machine you will save yourself a bunch of time.Be sure to post pics if you have problems. It's easier to help you if we can see what's going on.Last edited by Bob Sigmon; 09-03-2005 at 12:43 PM.
Reply:hey just realized arc-zone is about 30 minutes from me. could i just get a wheel for my grinder to shape tips?
Reply:Ok, For gas pressures, you want about 15-20ish for Al. +/- a few psi. i stay at 20 all day long for mild/stainless and alu.Now for the electrodes:You have the following BASIC types of tungsten:99.5(pure) Tungsten (EWP)was used back in the day for alu mostly, good balling propeties1% Thoriated (EWth1%)1% thorium added to tungsten, decent for most everything2% Thoriated (EWth2%)2% thorium, pretty common today, again decent for alot of applicationsEWZr, Zirconiated tungstencontains Zirconium, good for AC welding of Alu.And the lanthiated tungsten as listed above.I don't know why you should not use the pure tungsten with the dynasty? Most people i know of never use pure anyways, no matter the machine. You also should be able to weld alu with a pointed tungsten with that machine, as you can fine tune the % of EN portions of the AC cycle, plus you have pluse and all that good stuff too.2002 VW Golf TDi1994 Audi S4
Reply:barebackjake,Cool that Arc-Zone is so close to you! Yes, get a hard fine wheel that you will use exclusively for the tungsten and you'll be in business. The shape of your tungsten tip affects the shape of the arc cone. Try to be as consistent as you can when you grind the tungsten. It is hard enough at the beginning and having different shapes at the end of your tungsten may add to the confusion (that's why I broke for the big buck and bought the tungsten grinder).Arc-zone sells quality tungsten as does Aglevtech.com online. I'm not sure off the top of my head how the prices compare.At the Ask Andy site (Miller), do a search for Dynasty and user Hawk. He is THE MAN for Dynasty information.
Reply:arc zone has the grinding guides for the tips so ill get some of thoose. ill get one of the grinders soon. or i wonder if i could just buy the end and use my existing 1/4" die grinder for power source. it was all the settings that i know are gonne be interesting at first with that control panel on that thing. ive heard the manual is about 2" thick. thats one of the biggest reasons i got this machine so i dont need a little 110v wire feed i hate the machine we have. i gotta weld unistrut and other misc racking on the job all the time and like i said our little lincoln wire feed is a pos. and the dynasty i can plug into anything. 110-480 1ph or 3 im gonna sell my ole hobart stick welder. i havent touched it since the 251 rolled into the garage.
Reply:barebackjake,Are you planning on using the TIG on site? Do you have a way to setup wind breaks or is it inside? TIG needs a very still work area.
Reply:yeah theres some tig work thats gotta get done onsite. alot of times i can weld it in the back of my 14' cube van. we have a bunch of fire covers and the red screen to use for wind breaks. our welder that we have right now had to weld some bussbar about 100' up on a substation, that was a pita to make it still. especially since the wind was blowing about 30mph makes it even harder when that bucket is 100' up and moving and what your trying to weld isnt.
Reply:Whoa, now that's gonna be fun! Let us know how it works out. (Pictures would be nice) Try bumping up the shielding gas a bit. (Not too much as that will create turbulence that will suck air into the shielding gas)Good Luck!
Reply:oh yeah next time we have some ariel work ill get some pics. this last one was an emergency repair and didnt even think of getting pics.
Reply:My biggest three pieces of advice for you are:1 - Form the pool FIRST, THEN add the rod. Don't burn rod to make your pool. Starting a proper TIG weld is the hardest part of the whole process - once you get it puddled properly and swell that puddle with a bit of rod (if necessary) it's all downhill.2 - Get the right filler diameter for the job. If you're working on thin sheet, use MIG wire. If you're working on 1/8" then use 3/32". Anything else will go reasonably well with 1/8". Like Confucius said - "don't use a cannon to kill a mosquito".3 - Learn to love your amperage controller. Take it off the rig and sleep with it at night. Whisper sweet nothings into its connector plug. Do what you have to do to make it your BEST FRIEND. If you can dance with the pedal (or fingertip control) then the TIGging world is your oyster.Good luck!MR
Reply:thats one of the things i was wondering about was arc start and filler feeding. im getting one of the little slide charts from miller with the material types, size, reccommended electrode, gas, filler type and size too. i hope that will help. i have noticed millers most reccomended electrode is the red band. i read at arczone that its radioactive though and the recccomend the orange band in replacement of it due to the fact that its not radioactive and to only use red if your contractually bound due to enviromental and health risks. what do you guys think of that?the fingertip control i think is going to be interesting.....i put a knob on my electrode holder on my stick welder and have been getting used to having it there and learning to turn it while welding and still keep steady. theres just too much out of posistion for the pedal i think.thanks guys for all your help. cant wait till it gets here. ive always loved watching tig welding get done. it is definately an artform.i downloaded the manual off millers website. i think setup is going to be interesting.....lots and lots oh and did i mention lots of gizmos and doodads this thing has. bunches of start options, can have it start the arc at a certain heat range and back down to specified heat at specified time. (i guess that would be good on materials that conduct heat really well)
Reply:Originally Posted by barebackjakei have noticed millers most reccomended electrode is the red band. i read at arczone that its radioactive though and the recccomend the orange band in replacement of it due to the fact that its not radioactive and to only use red if your contractually bound due to enviromental and health risks. what do you guys think of that?
Reply:got it todayioc on ebay is the best. ordered it on friday!! indiana-so cal.gonna get the rest of the stuff i need for it tommorow wasnt expecting it till friday
Reply:Why do you want to only use the wheel for thoriated? Will it contaminate if you use it for somethine else?? I have a tungsten wheel for some chisel grinding I used. I am concerned about the radiation, where can I get info on safe operation? thanks.
Reply:You actually want to prevent contamination OF the tungsten, not contamination FROM the tungsten. Even with non-radioactive tungsten you want to have an exclusive wheel.MR
Reply:got to strike an arc tonight with it!!!!! why did i wait so long this thing is the best.1/16 orange band 100a lift start. only stuck it once no fillerman its really hard to take pics of welds gotta figure this camera out too Attached Images
Reply:i think practicing with the stick last few days was worth the time Attached Images
Reply:Looks nice (hard to tell exact 'beauty' from distance/focus, but they look well-done). Good width, good apparent wash-in, and minimal weld smut which means you're running a good shielding setup for the cup/tung you're working with.Welcome to the dark side, my friend - once you TIG you never want to go back! Well, except in many other situations where one-handed approaches allow you to hold and tack... y'know, like, uh, almost every project we ever do. But other than THAT you'll never want to go back.Damn, kinda stole my own thunder there.MR
Reply:im gonna burn some al tonight you got any tips?? 1/8 soft alwhat amperage? gas cfh? electrode? (orange 3/32?) what nozzle? movement tips? what about the finger control what to do there?
Reply:The Dynasty 200 likes 1.5% lanthanated tungsten 3/32", pointed with a small flat on the end,150amps(control the actual output with the pedal or finger control), 100AC Freq, 70 - 75 balance, 15 - 20 cfh.NOT LIKE STEEL!!!Ramp the heat up slowly and use a small circle with your torch. Once you see the puddle form get ready to start moving. Be sure to poke the filler into the puddle or the filler will melt before it gets to the puddle. When you pull the filler out of the puddle be sure that it stays in the gas cover or it will oxidize and cause problems. As you get further into the bead, you will probably need to back off on the amps as the built up heat in the work piece will help the aluminum to melt faster. If your bead starts to flatten out and get wider, back off. Clean the aluminum with a stainless brush that is dedicated to aluminum and then wipe the work piece with some acetone before welding. The oxide on the aluminum melts at 3000* and the aluminum at 1800* or there abouts, you can see where this would be a problem.I'm sure that I'm leaving something out but if you have any problems, let us know.
Reply:Check out Aglevtech Tungsten Info Be sure that you don't use pure (green) tungsten with the Dynasty. It has been known to cause problems with the internal circuitry.welding al has really got me frustrated, damn this is alot tougher than steel. got a foot pedal today (damn there proud of thoose at the weld shop) the miller finger control sucks on the al cant get from hot to shut it down fast enough. just staying consistant and feeding it has been workin me. inside corner welds i cant get the arc to stay where i want it. how far out of the cup should the electrode be sticking out? all ive got right now is orange band 2%ceratied im gonna get some 1.5% lantantied next week. im wondering if its the way im pointing my electrode too. ill get some pics up tommorow. maybe by then i will figure out how to make closeup shots with my camera to get some good detail. the points are getting ground to the point and am tring to get it 2x the width to the point and makin a small flat point on a wheeel that i just use on my electrodes. are you supposed to be pushing or draggin?ill play with it more in the morning
Reply:BBJ - the stickout of the electrode shouldn't be any greater than your cup's diameter, and if you can get away with half it'll pay off for you (so long as you're not getting so short of a stickout that the alumina cup acts as an insulator for the arc and knocks back your output... you'll know what that looks like when you see it).For Al, most guys use a PURE tungsten (no dopants like cerium or thorium, etc. and it'll have a GREEN band), the AC waveform with about 70% EN bias, and let it form a BALLED end - if you grind it as you would any other tung and switch on the AC the EP phase will put enough heat into the electrode to ball it up at the end. These are tips I've gotten from buddies who TIG aluminum in their sleep, although unfortunately I've got a DC-only inverter (Invertec V160-T) and don't do Al myself... YET.With TIG you always want to PUSH to shield the newly forming pool adequately. Also, for inside fillets, you'll want to angle the tungsten about 20* from vertical (i.e. 70* from the face of the bottom component) - it seems strange to begin with, but it works. This holds true for steel as well. Your push angle should be in the neighborhood of 10-15* from vertical; that should get you cookin' with gas.And especially with Al (so I'm told, and it makes sense to me knowing the thermal conductivity of the stuff), start your puddle slowly, build it up with a bit of rod, and move it along for a short stretch before beginning to dial back the amperage ever so slightly to account for the "preheat" of the metal along the joint. It'll take less amperage to weld the middle of an Al weldment than it will to start it.MR
Reply:ok ill give that a shot, ive been told from the miller rep and some guys here not to use pure on my machine, but ill try balling up the end of the electrodethanks again out to the shop i go.....
Reply:Jake,You have an inverter, DO NOT USE PURE TUNGSTEN ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Ceriated is best for low amp DC welding on steel or stainless.I prefer 1.5% lanthanated but 2% Thoriated will work fine. Don't try to ball the tungsten, again this is an inverter related thing but don't.A nice point with a small flat and a lot of patience.Bob SigmonDynasty 200DX and Coolmate 3Miller Passport LMSW-52T Spot WelderO/A Setup with Meco MidgetMiller Big Window EliteQuincy QT-5HD
Reply:no i wont run pure in my machine!! dont worry thereim able to run a fairly good bead on flat now its just that fillet weld is kickin my butt.... where am i supposed to start a puddle?? seems like i cant get the arc where i want it....i need some lessons....lol
Reply:jake,generally with fillet welds you need just a bit more stickout on the tungsten. You need to find the fine line between enough and "whoops I stuck it in the puddle".I always try to start just a touch in from the end and the step back to catch the beginnning of the weld. I found that I was able to blow away the vertical aluminum very easily if I was starting at the exact end. I guess starting the bead away from the end was like a preheat. THe more I practice the closer to the end I can start.Try to focus the arc on the flat plate and wash the bead up onto the vertical. I'm sure that there are other ways of doing this, but this worked for me.I think one of the hardest things to learn with aluminum is to slow down at the beginning of the weld. Ramp the heat up slowly until the puddle starts to form then start moving while watching the bead size as you progress you will need to lighten up on the pedal or the bead will widen and flatten out. Good Luck and keep practicing, the welding supply guys love it!Bob SigmonDynasty 200DX and Coolmate 3Miller Passport LMSW-52T Spot WelderO/A Setup with Meco MidgetMiller Big Window EliteQuincy QT-5HD
Reply:Damn, I guess I learned something today - don't put green in an inverter machine.Any particular reason NOT to use pure tung in an AC inverter-based setup?-M
Reply:Breakers,Seriously, because of the work and testing of a few guys on the Miller board that do beta testing for Miller. They are fantastic welders and have forgotten more than I'll ever know. It probably has to do with the fast switching of the inverters between the AC phases and the ability of the inverter to change the shape of the waveforms.But that's just my SWAG.Bob SigmonDynasty 200DX and Coolmate 3Miller Passport LMSW-52T Spot WelderO/A Setup with Meco MidgetMiller Big Window EliteQuincy QT-5HD
Reply:I did some looking into it, and doped tung will maintain its shape in an inverter if you set the EP/EN bias correctly (no more than about 30% EP) for the correct size of electrode. Thus, you get better arc characteristics due to a truncated point rather than a balled end because of the adjustable balance found in inverter setups.That's as much as I could glean from available sources... interesting theory though. I always assumed that pure tung was better in inverters because of the lower dwell time at the zero point as well as the faster passage from max amplitudes when using an inverter.Thanks for the heads-up on that one!MR
Reply:Try playing around with the pulse settings. I'm still getting my TA185 dialed in for alu, but i set it for stainless as the instruction manual suggested and it comes out AMAZING! Makes life a whole lot better. Best way to describe it is like this: Makes a good welder look like an excellent welder, makes an excellent welder look like a machine....2002 VW Golf TDi1994 Audi S4
Reply:i think thats part of what i have to do is just start playing with it too. im just running off millers al settings and thinkin its just me. havent had much time this week to play with it. gotta get the shop setup for a couple upcoming projects so that has been keeping me busy. |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:19:23