gun safe

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practicing posting pic Attached ImagesLast edited by steve butera; 03-19-2008 at 09:20 AM.BTS Welding
Reply:That's a nice gun safe.  How tall is it?********************LukeNorth Salem, NY********************HH 187Orbit 16 speed drill pressEvolution Rage 2 14" dry cut SAW87 Buick Grand National96 Ford Mustang GT (vert)
Reply:Nice job...What kind of lock Is that?Gearjam
Reply:hmmm... very interesting. i was strictly told last night that i need to get a gun safe too. i never thought about making one. got any other tips/tricks? material list(s)? other build-up pics?Later,Andy
Reply:not a fire safe, but that is a great idea.....my wife would like me to have one to keep the kiddos safe, maybe I need to build me one. I like the big hinge and the fact that the guns are QUICKLY accessible. Great job
Reply:Will a B M G .50 cal   fit in there ?[SIZE="5"Yardbird"
Reply:Gearjam, i was wondering about the lock too. i figured if anybody made them, Masterlock did... here's what i found:http://www.masterlock.com/apps/catalog/category.jsp?categoryId=HSL_3&target=commercial|se  curityLater,Andy
Reply:That lock looks like a big honkin Master lock, I have one like that on the gate to our rear storage yard, Im not at the yard right now but when I got it the package said "CONTRACTOR LOCK" its a dandy I think the only way you can get it off is with a torch or a cut wheel in a grinder, but a hammer or pry bar no way, I got it at a contractor supply I think it was about $15.
Reply:The safe is 48" tall , all the plate is 3/16" The lock  is American but I have seen other brands also.Dont have any build in progress pictures, it was really pretty easy, the back and sides are one piece,then the bottom and the lid. The hardest part was setting the lock plate in place.I made this for a customer who is going to sell them at gun shows,this is the first one and he said he will probably refine and change some things.But I do know it is stronger than most, because of the steel thickness.we are also going to put in some handgun holders on the inside of the lid. Attached ImagesLast edited by steve butera; 03-19-2008 at 09:57 PM.BTS Welding
Reply:[QUOTE=OUCHthatshot;173791]...my wife would like me to have one to keep the kiddos safe, maybe I need to build me one./QUOTE]So, it looks a bit small for that. What would you do for food and water? Pipe it in? How about excersise? They need to run a bit too........
Reply:The type of padlock on that safe can be popped in 1 min or less, with cobalt drill bit, lube, an 18v. + portable drill .....and a guy that knows what he's doing. Since the cylinder has to 'pop' out, to release the lock--that style of padlock cannot have any hardened, drill bit breakage tangs in front of it, to prevent drilling out.Some American locks have those hardened tangs, that promptly break the drill. I haven't seen other brands that have that feature, but there may be. Not aware of any 'pancake style' locks as on your gun safe, that have a drill breakage tang.Picking tumblers is rarely done. Slipping the hasp engagement pawl with shim, is widely known. Sooner, rather than later, the low-end perps, will figure out that a high powered, portable angle grinder, with a cutoff wheel, is even more useful than a drill.Blackbird
Reply:very nice. i am thinking about making mine out of 1/8 (10 ga), but i'm still unsure. is there anything that YOU would change on the one you built?as far as the locks go, i found a little more info on them yesterday and last night. those types of locks (hidden shackle and/or hockey-puck style) are feared by many. specifically firefighters. they are used in the highest of security situations, primarily roll-up doors and trucks/vans. there is no clear-cut way to bust them. the most efficient way that i have seen is to either torch it, right behind the bolt/shackle, melting the internals and the bolt, cut it with a disk (once again) right behind the bolt, or to use a "hockey-puck-lock-breaker tool" (who woulda thunk up that name? lol). it is basically a massive pipe wrench with a cheater pipe welded to it. the firefighters' forums that i found were saying that shrouded versions, such as Steve's, is a royal PITA to break. they reccomend using a cutting disk or their fireman's saw(s) to get thru it. i'm not trying to tell anyone how to get into those cabinets (the lock is the hardest way in), but merely re-asserting that those locks are one tough mother. the most hated one my firemen is the Andersen 2000. i'm not sure why exactly, but it seems that it is just built tougher than any others.Later,Andy
Reply:Seems like a hammer and punch would pop out that exposed hinge pin pretty quick.Or just carry it away.  Must be a niche safe of some sort, cause only being 48" that eliminates shotguns and most bolt-action rifles.  Perhaps it's intended for those black GI Joe type weapons.
Reply:I dont have a gun... maybe blowdart safe? The padlock in unique doesnt sell one in my area ...like that I thinkUnit in my fab shop dept:my good hand and team that trust me...A lone welder make art... a village full of welder make Miracles...
Reply:Originally Posted by 69 chevySeems like a hammer and punch would pop out that exposed hinge pin pretty quick.
Reply:Nice work.  Did you do all the bending and cutting?  What/how would you change the build if you were to mass produce them?You can easily take care of any security issues.
Reply:Theives aren't going to waste much time trying to open a safe. It is easier just to haul them out and work on opening them up later so unless your design is really secured to its surroundings, its going to get hauled away. My weapons are stored in an 800# monster safe secured with bolts through the bottom of it into the concrete floor and a big sign on the door reminding the person wanting to access the contents of the safe to disable the bobby trap inside first.It isn't the deal you got, but the one you thought you got!!Still trying to get all the big boy toys.
Reply:Originally Posted by aczellervery nice...... there is no clear-cut way to bust them. Later,Andy
Reply:Just my 2 cents, all my guns are hid, every family member knows where, and also knows how to use any firearm in our home. As a machinist I am very aware that any safe is only to keep the insurence company and wife happy as a good theif is gonna get in. I do believe in loud noise and lights going off every where though. I have gotten a little bit "Vigilanty" in my old age and have cameras all around also so I can see who it was before I call the cops! See the only time I've been broken into was by an ex employee who I bent over backwards to help. Also my machine shop is behind my home where there are 4 torches they could use to cut open a safe. However if I wanted one I would use this one to build from. Great pics and all.Last edited by sc6chuck9; 03-20-2008 at 05:18 PM.
Reply:Wow, Thanks for all the comments and critisism. About the security issues It is not a fire safe, mostly intended to keep kids out of the guns and still be quickly acessable,  and only as a deterrent to thieves. Like most front doors its just a deterrent. (the hinge pin is welded)     It will be bolted to the floor and to the wall it is up against. I doubt that the common thief will be able to get it open, he surly wont be walking away with it, its 3/16 ths plate.I just built it for a good customer of mine to his specifications. this is how he does things, makes one and improves on it. when he picked it up, he already had several changes in mind. And now that I can post pictures I will be posting more as time allows thanksBTS Welding
Reply:Steve Thanks for posting this. It's great to see something new get good reviews andsolid questions. I am the designer of the safe and this was our, Steve and I'sfirst shot at it. Things that have moving parts present many challenges whensomething has to work no matter what the conditions are. This prototype wasbuilt to hold an M1 Garand sized rifle that is 43" tall and has an effective baseof 7" standing up. I live in a remote area and security is an ever present issue.The underlying premise of the safe was to be able to store up to six rifles andsay two handguns in such a manner that they would be easy to access in anemergency, be hidden from view, keep children and other nosy folks away andbe strong enough to repel a sustained tool attack for limited period of time.Under no circumstances is this design going to keep someone out that has anarm load of cutting tools and plenty of time. If don't have an alarm it won'tmake much difference, get an alarm. I did the bending at the shop and had Steve finish it. He made the ring, cutthe slot made the handle and did the fitting and welding of the sheet and plate. After painting it should look great in my closet! I'll be making some changes and offering a model with an electronic lock that will be much quicker to access. I may be offering these up as a project kit with all thecutting and bending done. The safe in the pic is 48" tall x 24" wide and 8" deep. The back, front, sides and bottom are 10ga and the front and door are3/16. The lock is an American and the Master lock is very similar.Ben
Reply:Nice box, but that lock can be removed in about thirty seconds with a plain old cheap drill bit. For about $50 you can get yourself one from Medeco made of hardened stainless. They will take maybe a few minutes to remove, but that can make all the difference. If your just looking to keep kids out and the honest honest, then the lock will of course be perfect.
Reply:Honestly this was a means to an end, it will be changed to an electronic lock with internallocking bolts to secure the lid. However I hadn't been aware that Medeco made a Pucklock, but I'll googal it.
Reply:Any updates to this thread ?
Reply:Thats a pretty sweet safe bud!