tig welding aluminum?

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I worked in a sheet metal shop for 12 years (duct work shop).  I have thousands of hours of time on stick/mig welders (steel/galv/stainless).  Our shop didnt have a tig welder so this is something new to me.How much different is it to tig weld?  Should I take a class or do you think if I just get some good resource info on settings and practice is that enough?Second question is I no longer work at a sheet metal shop but I want to buy a tig welder capable of welding aluminum for personal use what is a good machine to get?  Looking for something that will only be used as recreational use (few times a year at most).   Thinking of one of the mutiple use machines (plasma, stick, tig), are these any good?  I had a linchon buz box that I sold  few years ago and have been meaning to relace with a tig ot mig but just have not done it yet.  I have been checking out ebay and they seem pretty expensive.  I also have a small garage so I would like something portable if possible (not a 1000 lb hobart commercial unit).  Any help appreciated.thanks
Reply:Hey KMD,Just simply type your post heading into the "SEARCH" window & you can spend the next several days reading & getting all your questions answered.DennyComplete Welding/Machine/Fab. ShopMobile UnitFinally retired*Moderator*"A man's word is his honor...without honor there is nothing.""Words are like bullets.... Once they leave your muzzle, you cannot get them back."
Reply:To condense down what has been said over and over in responce to this...Your best bet to learn quickly and efficiently is to take a class. Note you will most likely learn on steel not alum. Alum tig is more difficult for most than steel. You can't see the puddle difference as well as you can on steel and heat control is more critical. Some have sucesfully learned tig with alum, but they are in the minority. Most likely you will find it very frustrating unless you have the basics down cold with steel. Previous welding with mig and stick will only be a minor help here.As far as a machine, You will need a tig capable of AC. AC tigs regardless of brand are not  inexpensive. Also alum requires more amps than steel because alum is such a good heat sink. You will need a machine that can put out at least 150 amps to do 1/8". Most portable AC tigs are not inexpensive, at least the good ones. Transformer tigs are usually less than the portable inverters, but you pay with the extra weight. You can get very nice heavy duty AC tigs at a good price used. The down side is that these are very heavy, older industrial units like Millers 330AB/P and they want a good bit of input power, 50-60 amps 230v minimun, 100 amps 230v+ to run full power. But you can often pick up these machines for $500-800 used in very good condition with lots of life left and they usually come with water cooled torches, something you will want if you do much alum.If you want to go with one of the all in ones, thats your choice. To me they are not worth it even for a hobby machine. They usually do nothing great and parts and repair availability are questionable at best, as shown from the numerous problem threads that show up here all the time. You may spend more for a brand name unit, but 10 years from now you can still get parts and repairs if needed, and the resale value is way more than the cheap all in ones.A used Miller Syncrowave 180 or 200 would be a good choice, but at 200 and some pounds IIRC, it's not really what I'd call "portable". I bought a new Sync 200 when I wanted to learn alum tig. Cost about $2K. The Dynasty 200 is the portable equivilent, but it runs almost $4K. Too much for me for a machine thats not going to make me money..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan